Modified PCIe 8-pin connector

EdZ

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May 11, 2015
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I would be wary of using a thermosoftening plastic for something intended to carry high currents. But what would probably work well would be to take an existing (incorrectly keyed) connector, remove the pins to leave only the plastic part, carefully file the lower-centre pin to have the correct notches (could be done by cutting that peg off, filing it, then reattaching it), then use it as a master to create a two-part mould. That mould can then be used to cast a thermoset plastic suitable for use as a connector. The only remaining issue would be sourcing the pins themselves.
 

jeshikat

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Feb 22, 2015
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Would there really be any problem cutting off that peg and just leaving it off? As long as you carefully plug it in and make sure the two terminals mate correctly I don't see an issue with doing that.
 

Thehack

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I would be wary of using a thermosoftening plastic for something intended to carry high currents. But what would probably work well would be to take an existing (incorrectly keyed) connector, remove the pins to leave only the plastic part, carefully file the lower-centre pin to have the correct notches (could be done by cutting that peg off, filing it, then reattaching it), then use it as a master to create a two-part mould. That mould can then be used to cast a thermoset plastic suitable for use as a connector. The only remaining issue would be sourcing the pins themselves.

They are both nylon compounds. What makes the SLS less suitable?

Would there really be any problem cutting off that peg and just leaving it off? As long as you carefully plug it in and make sure the two terminals mate correctly I don't see an issue with doing that.

The connector plugs provide additional mechanical support in attaching it. It also ensures that should you ever leave the cable unplugged it would not short something. We want a good permanent solution. But yes if we can just plug the female terminals in and that would work. The female terminals do have a mechanical grip on the part of the receptacle that plugs into the PCB jack.
 

Kmpkt

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If the item that you want is not too difficult to build I will give it a try. Draw a picture of what you want and send it to me at KareonKables@gmail.com. I get a little concerned when I hear soldering because I did one for a customer that I charged $20 for. Before I was through I had invested 7 hours into back and forth messages. I will give it a try again. THanks

@KareonKables

This is the pinout diagram for the adapter I was curious about getting done.

https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...dular-150mm-flexatx-psu.618/page-2#post-14173
 

Thehack

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Okay. So I got the connector. Here it is:



Unfortunately, it is not the right key configuration. It requires 6mm of clearance for a through hole PCB design. ATX specs says you don't need the receptacle in question, so it removed and still work. However, there doesn't seem to be a simple way to remove it without damaging the connector.

So, if MOLEX can theoretically make a batch of a PCIe configuration for this, but the run itself would cost in the thousands... So you'd probably have to find 1,000 people who wants one.

And finally, examining the plastic, it is very high quality. There is no way for us to replicate this unless we use one of those high-tech engineer-grade 3d printer.
 
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EdZ

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If you have more than one, could I buy one (or a handful) from you to see if I can remould one to an acceptable quality?
 
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Thehack

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If you have more than one, could I buy one (or a handful) from you to see if I can remould one to an acceptable quality?

You can have mine, I'll mail it to you. It'll cost me just a postage stamp. PM me your details. I have no use for it since I don't have the tools or anything.
 

iFreilicht

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It requires 6mm of clearance for a through hole PCB design.

I think that could be minimised by flush-trimming the pins before soldering. I've seen a mechanical keyboard that was built like that, so you'd only need the PCB and a thin piece of plastic to prevent the pins from shorting. You could get down to 3mm with that.
 

Thehack

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I think that could be minimised by flush-trimming the pins before soldering. I've seen a mechanical keyboard that was built like that, so you'd only need the PCB and a thin piece of plastic to prevent the pins from shorting. You could get down to 3mm with that.

Yes. that is true. Sadly it doesn't seem MOLEX produces the PCIE version of this.
 

Curiosity

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@guryhwa posted this picture in the G-Unique DC-ATX thread in the vendor area, maybe he could make some adapters (or point us the right way) like the cable here?


link to post
 
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QinX

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Mar 2, 2015
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I was actually reading this thread yesterday and had that exact idea to make. Go figure he'd already done it.

I hope he doesn't mind me making that as well.
 

QinX

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That cable is what I think most of our community has been waiting for.
I think it would look something like this.


I think a little extra size is needed for the current and some heatsinking
and I'll need to calculate the voltage drop as well.
 
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Thehack

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I think it would look something like this.


I think a little extra size is needed for the current and some heatsinking
and I'll need to calculate the voltage drop as well.

Don't care, just make it.

Voltage drop isn't a big deal, we're talking about ITX cases here. The ATX standards for 12V has a pretty large range too.
 
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1461748123

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@1461748123 It's sounds like there is another design opportunity here. Any word if @guryhwa would be interested in bringing these to market?
@guryhwa is on holiday now :p so he won't be replying until ~mid February. Although I'm not in China, It's also a busy week for me as well since it is a big part of my culture, and I gotta prepare for it. So sorry for the delay in replying post/questions!
 
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QinX

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kees
Mar 2, 2015
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Whoever makes it first, I'll take two.

Don't care, just make it.

Voltage drop isn't a big deal, we're talking about ITX cases here. The ATX standards for 12V has a pretty large range too.

I've got 2 sizes I'm thinking of.
16mm for just a regular 1.4mm PCB and 18mm for when a backplate is present, maybe I need to make the 18mm a 20mm size for more clearance? What do you guys think?

Right now I have 4 versions:
8-Pin 18mm wide and 16mm high
8-Pin 18mm wide and 18mm high(perhaps 20mm?)
6-Pin 13.8mm wide and 16mm high
6-Pin 13.8mm wide and 18mm high(perhaps 20mm?)

Bottome holes are for fitting the Mini-fit Jr. crimps and soldering
Top holes are 2mm in diameter and should accommodate up to 14AWG without any problem wire, it might fit 12AWG but only just.

Something like this?