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Power Supply HDPlex AC-DC and DC-DC combo
- Thread starter Kmpkt
- Start date
Always go by 'the weakest link in the chain' so... 160W DC-ATX + 300W AC-DC = 160W
@Josh | NFC has noted that the DC-ATX units can handle substantially more than what they're rated for; especially with a few small mods. The AC-DC units, however are limited to what they're rated for and usually are the reason for power system failures.
Out with the old, in with the new! My very well packaged HDPLEX combo unit arrived two days ago but I just couldn't wait any longer for the customized SFX bracket to arrive so I went ahead and installed it without the bracket!
HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX Direct-Plug
HDPLEX 80W Internal AC-DC Adapter
HDPLEX Combo unit fitted into UV Siamese (soon to be UV Siamese 2)... luckily the DC-ATX Direct-Plug played nicely with my Silverstone ML06B-E case leaving a good 10+ mm mm of space from inside the front panel for cable management.
All powered up without a hitch; very pleased. 80W Internal AC-DC Adapter running very cool to the touch. Current state of HDPLEX cabling is only temporary until the customized SFX Bracket arrives.
Fortunately, I did need to use my 15 mm thin Silverstone Quiet APA-1215L Slim 120 mm Case Fan as I was still able to fit my 25 mm thick Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 RPM 120mm Case Fan in, it just cleared the Direct-Plug with a few mm to spare!
Now just have to get a new CPU (Kaby Lake Pentium G4620) and wait for @iFreilicht's RGB Vandal Power Button. Still mulling over the water cooling but not for this current case but my next case which will be a sub-5L (either the Korkin, RSC, or the Lone 4).
HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX Direct-Plug
HDPLEX 80W Internal AC-DC Adapter
HDPLEX Combo unit fitted into UV Siamese (soon to be UV Siamese 2)... luckily the DC-ATX Direct-Plug played nicely with my Silverstone ML06B-E case leaving a good 10+ mm mm of space from inside the front panel for cable management.
All powered up without a hitch; very pleased. 80W Internal AC-DC Adapter running very cool to the touch. Current state of HDPLEX cabling is only temporary until the customized SFX Bracket arrives.
Fortunately, I did need to use my 15 mm thin Silverstone Quiet APA-1215L Slim 120 mm Case Fan as I was still able to fit my 25 mm thick Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 RPM 120mm Case Fan in, it just cleared the Direct-Plug with a few mm to spare!
Now just have to get a new CPU (Kaby Lake Pentium G4620) and wait for @iFreilicht's RGB Vandal Power Button. Still mulling over the water cooling but not for this current case but my next case which will be a sub-5L (either the Korkin, RSC, or the Lone 4).
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Looking for some advice about the HDPlex 300 DC-ATX.
I plan to affix it to my chassis with thermal tape/pads but was wondering about how much to use. The problem is that the backplate is already using thermal pads to bridge the air gap between it and the rear of the PCB and is only used on the inductor coils and regulators. Would the effectiveness of using thermal tape/pad be better if had full coverage or is using just enough to correspond with the location of the pre-installed thermal pads and enough to ensure secure mounting to chassis?
Picture for reference:
I plan to affix it to my chassis with thermal tape/pads but was wondering about how much to use. The problem is that the backplate is already using thermal pads to bridge the air gap between it and the rear of the PCB and is only used on the inductor coils and regulators. Would the effectiveness of using thermal tape/pad be better if had full coverage or is using just enough to correspond with the location of the pre-installed thermal pads and enough to ensure secure mounting to chassis?
Picture for reference:
Hey!
(I'm interested in the answer to @GreatestUnKnown's question, too, so don't let me take away from that!)
I'm about to order one of the HDPLEX AC-DC units. I am going to use it to see if it's possible to figure out a way to jam it into one of my builds, and even if that doesn't work out I have another build (in a S4 Mini) with a low-profile video card that I'm sure it will fit. (As per @Kmpkt's build.)
My question right now is: I'm looking at a 65W (or less) chip and a low-profile 1050 Ti (rated at 75W? it only uses PCI-e socket power) in my system, it seems like 'any' 160W would give me just the right amount of extra headroom for RAM and a storage drive. But, I wanted to ask if there was a particular power supply that made sense for this build.
I don't think I'll end up using any drives or devices that need SATA/Molex/additional power (storage will be M.2), but it's possible I do try to rig up some USB devices on the inside running off of the on-board headers.
Is the HDPLEX AC-DC unit right for this use-case? And what "DC-ATX"(?) board should I be using to distribute power this system?
(I'm interested in the answer to @GreatestUnKnown's question, too, so don't let me take away from that!)
I'm about to order one of the HDPLEX AC-DC units. I am going to use it to see if it's possible to figure out a way to jam it into one of my builds, and even if that doesn't work out I have another build (in a S4 Mini) with a low-profile video card that I'm sure it will fit. (As per @Kmpkt's build.)
My question right now is: I'm looking at a 65W (or less) chip and a low-profile 1050 Ti (rated at 75W? it only uses PCI-e socket power) in my system, it seems like 'any' 160W would give me just the right amount of extra headroom for RAM and a storage drive. But, I wanted to ask if there was a particular power supply that made sense for this build.
I don't think I'll end up using any drives or devices that need SATA/Molex/additional power (storage will be M.2), but it's possible I do try to rig up some USB devices on the inside running off of the on-board headers.
Is the HDPLEX AC-DC unit right for this use-case? And what "DC-ATX"(?) board should I be using to distribute power this system?
@GreatestUnKnown
I'd personally opt for full or near full coverage if possible. The thermal tape on the inside will transfer to the aluminum backplate which will essentially act as a heat spreader as aluminum conducts quite well. Having a full transfer surface between the backplate and the case will optimize transfer at that interface. Furthermore with a larger adhesive space, it's probably less likely that you'll have problems with any kind of shifting of the power unit with use or gravity over time.
@zovc
The HDPlex 160W plugless is a perfect solution for your planned build. I run a 45W CPU and 1050ti in the Orangulan and rarely go over about 120W when stressing the system. Using a < 65W chip should put you comfortably within spec on the HDPlex 160W DC-ATX. Also just because it says it's a 160W unit, doesn't actually mean that is its hard limit (that is probably somewhere closer to 180W). The bigger issue with the AC-DC to DC-DC systems is going to be using a brick that can handle the load comfortably as it's much more likely to blow on you if put in an over wattage state than the DC-DC unit.
I'd personally opt for full or near full coverage if possible. The thermal tape on the inside will transfer to the aluminum backplate which will essentially act as a heat spreader as aluminum conducts quite well. Having a full transfer surface between the backplate and the case will optimize transfer at that interface. Furthermore with a larger adhesive space, it's probably less likely that you'll have problems with any kind of shifting of the power unit with use or gravity over time.
@zovc
The HDPlex 160W plugless is a perfect solution for your planned build. I run a 45W CPU and 1050ti in the Orangulan and rarely go over about 120W when stressing the system. Using a < 65W chip should put you comfortably within spec on the HDPlex 160W DC-ATX. Also just because it says it's a 160W unit, doesn't actually mean that is its hard limit (that is probably somewhere closer to 180W). The bigger issue with the AC-DC to DC-DC systems is going to be using a brick that can handle the load comfortably as it's much more likely to blow on you if put in an over wattage state than the DC-DC unit.
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Seems like it should be fine, based on what I have seen posted around the web and what @Kmpkt has said. It might be worth checking out some of @Tek Everything 's YouTube channel, particularly this video - where he uses the HDPlex 160 in his i7(65W) and 1060 build. Some good info in the comments there too. Either way, he has been posting vids using the HDPlex and Pico power supplies for some generations of products, so he is a great resource. His website has write ups, here.
And Jay, if you catch this, any update on how the i7/1060 build in the beautiful S4 is running? How is it working under stress with the HDPlex 160? I want to use the same components as you and waffle back and forth between choosing the HDPlex 160/300. Seems like it would be relevant here!
@bledha I have been using that setup as my main rig since the vid launched. I have yet to have any issues. The system has run perfectly so far (fingers crossed as always).
Gaming, editing, rendering, It handles it all no problem. I have 3 SSD's in that system as well.
When some nice mini-itx AM4 boards come out I will most likely be switching to Ryzen for productivity.
Gaming, editing, rendering, It handles it all no problem. I have 3 SSD's in that system as well.
When some nice mini-itx AM4 boards come out I will most likely be switching to Ryzen for productivity.
Hi. Anyone can tell me that:
With this board or with board like this with the ATX power connector in the same position:
http://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITXac/index.asp
If I connect the HDPlex direct:
http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-160W-DC-ATX-Power-Supply-16V-24V-Wide-Range-Voltage-Input.html
How many mm of space I need outside from the motherboard, for the HDPlex cables, electric parts ecc...
In poor word how many millimeter I need for the HDPlex from where the motherboard ends??? Thank you.
With this board or with board like this with the ATX power connector in the same position:
http://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITXac/index.asp
If I connect the HDPlex direct:
http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-160W-DC-ATX-Power-Supply-16V-24V-Wide-Range-Voltage-Input.html
How many mm of space I need outside from the motherboard, for the HDPlex cables, electric parts ecc...
In poor word how many millimeter I need for the HDPlex from where the motherboard ends??? Thank you.
In my setup (see pics above in thread) I have 10+mm of room to spare with plenty of room for the cables...
Ok, thank you. But from the end of the motherboart to the end of orange plexiglass protection for HDplex connector... hom many mm? 10+ means 12/13 because if it's 15 it doesn't fit in the setup I like to do... because where finish the moterboard I have to put this:
http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Internal-160W-AC-DC-Adapter-with-Active-PFC-and-19VDC-Output.html
If I have only 15 mm of space between the end of th motherboard and the AC-DC... I think about this questions:
1-The AC-DC became hot? How much?
2-If some cable touch the AC-DC ca be a issue? Or it's cold and soooo no problem?
Thank you.
http://www.hd-plex.com/HDPLEX-Internal-160W-AC-DC-Adapter-with-Active-PFC-and-19VDC-Output.html
If I have only 15 mm of space between the end of th motherboard and the AC-DC... I think about this questions:
1-The AC-DC became hot? How much?
2-If some cable touch the AC-DC ca be a issue? Or it's cold and soooo no problem?
Thank you.
I can't help but notice that the combined volume of the 300W AC-DC and DC-ATX units is a a good 0.2L smaller than an SFX PSU. If the two were combined into a single fully passive SFX package, that thing would sell like crazy.
Has anyone modded one of the HDPlex 160W DC-ATX units to remove the SATA and molex cable? If you use M.2 they become unnecessary.
