Power Supply Has anyone bought the Metalfish 500W modular flex-atx psu from aliexpress/taobao?

hereforthefeast

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 25, 2019
131
133
this PSU is modular unlike many others, & if you watch the 29 second video, its product label showing a rating of 80 Plus is visible : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000935628975.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.57eb4c4dDkMYxB
HZ Mod and YTC both modify the Enhance flex psu so it is modular as well, there is also an option to swap a Noctua fan.

I didn't mean to discourage you from testing a new option and sharing with the community, that's always a good thing.

I'm just reminding that there are already known good flex psu suppliers (and the price is pretty similar, my custom Enhance 450W was $115 before shipping and the 600 version was ~$155) and both of those prices include custom length cables.
 
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RogueLeader

Average Stuffer
Oct 11, 2017
63
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your suggestion & mine are very different.


A) the aliexpress PSU is black color.

B) aliexpress doesn't require choosing a warehouse re-shipper, or translating anything into english. its much easier to buy from them.
 

Ricky Zeng

Trash Compacter
Jun 10, 2020
42
36
Bought mine recently. The fan is indeed very noisy under load. I could barely tolerate the idle noise either. Defintely need a fan swap. Only thing is that the 12v stock fan shows a 0.25A rating on its logo, much higher than 0.05A from Noctua A4x20 FLX or a few other quieter options. Don't know if this should be a concern.
Anyway, did a quick teardown before I put it into my build last week. Here's some pictures below. Anyone knows what those white pasty stuff are on a few internal locations? They were not in the store official product pics...










 

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Shrink Ray Wielder
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Great, thanks for sharing.

My impression: components (e.g. main cap) looks reasonably dimensioned for 500W. I guess you'll be able to pull something like 400W constantly and 500W peak.

However, looking at those heatsinks I think it has a very poor efficiency and will generate a lot of heat. You might want to be careful about replacing the fan with a NOCTUA. I would run some stress tests with the original fan first and see how hot it gets. Maybe you have some fever thermometer or something at home. But please never touch the heatsinks when it's connected to the mains.

Another thing worth mentioning is the 220v sticker. So it seems not to have PFC and wouldn't work with 110v.

Is there a fuse on the AC input? I can't see one.
 
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Ricky Zeng

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Jun 10, 2020
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Great, thanks for sharing.

My impression: components (e.g. main cap) looks reasonably dimensioned for 500W. I guess you'll be able to pull something like 400W constantly and 500W peak.

However, looking at those heatsinks I think it has a very poor efficiency and will generate a lot of heat. You might want to be careful about replacing the fan with a NOCTUA. I would run some stress tests with the original fan first and see how hot it gets. Maybe you have some fever thermometer or something at home. But please never touch the heatsinks when it's connected to the mains.

Another thing worth mentioning is the 220v sticker. So it seems not to have PFC and wouldn't work with 110v.

Is there a fuse on the AC input? I can't see one.
I didn't notice a fuse during the teardown. What would it normally look like? I can check again in the next few days when confirming the connector type for the 2pin fan wiring socket (apparently there're like at least 3 types). Sorry about my limited knowledge regarding PSU constructions...
I'm using the unit for a stock R5 3600 and RX580 combination. The PSU gets warm when 3D gaming (Forza Horizon 4, DCS, etc.), but not hot. And I think it's mostly due to my SATA drive and all the power cables blocking its intake vents. When used outside the case, the PSU housing feels mostly cool even under load. So I guess that's not too bad.
 
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Shrink Ray Wielder
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I didn't notice a fuse during the teardown. What would it normally look like? I can check again in the next few days when confirming the connector type for the 2pin fan wiring socket (apparently there're like at least 3 types). Sorry about my limited knowledge regarding PSU constructions...
I'm using the unit for a stock R5 3600 and RX580 combination. The PSU gets warm when 3D gaming (Forza Horizon 4, DCS, etc.), but not hot. And I think it's mostly due to my SATA drive and all the power cables blocking its intake vents. When used outside the case, the PSU housing feels mostly cool even under load. So I guess that's not too bad.

Check if you can find this kind of fuse somewhere:


With your hardware you'll pull much less than 300W so you should be good with the noctua fan swap. But with more powerful hardware I would be cautious.
 

tinyitx

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Jan 25, 2018
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That Dark Forest DF-FX500 PSU can be found in Taobao as well.

Much cheaper. Aliexpress has US$132.05. Taobao has RMB 318 (about US$ 45)
 

RogueLeader

Average Stuffer
Oct 11, 2017
63
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That Dark Forest DF-FX500 PSU can be found in Taobao as well.

Much cheaper. Aliexpress has US$132.05. Taobao has RMB 318 (about US$ 45)


taobao price is much lower.

is there any way to setup a taobao group buy here ??
 
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Ricky Zeng

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Jun 10, 2020
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Check if you can find this kind of fuse somewhere:


With your hardware you'll pull much less than 300W so you should be good with the noctua fan swap. But with more powerful hardware I would be cautious.
Took the PSU apart yesterday for fan swap, and no, definitely can't see a fuse like that near AC input. Actually I'm surprised to know that PC PSUs would use this type of basic glass cartridge fuse at all. My only other PSU tear down experience was a few years ago with an older Corsair ATX unit that went dead, didn't remember seeing this kind of fuse either... Took another picture from a different angle for your judgement:


Anyway, with the fan swap, I was able to locate three SUNON 4020 fans with different power ratings (1.6w, 1.4w, and 0.8w) on the cheap. The 1.6w unit (green label) was said to be using ball bearings and reaches ~8400RPM with 30dB max, and it only had limited noise improvement over the original screamer of a fan (3w, 0.25A), while providing same or maybe even stronger airflow.
Meanwhile both the 1.4w and 0.8w (white label with green stripe) were rated ~5500RPM and they proved to be virtually silent during the whole range of operation (noise rating 18dB max). Airflow is much reduced with these two obviously, but no thermal difference that I can tell by hand feel on the PSU casing during 3D gaming. So I decided to use the 1.4w fan for the time being. Right now this PSU is even quieter than the Noctua CPU/case fans in my build, so I'm very satisfied with the result. Hopefully it holds up in the long run.
 

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Shrink Ray Wielder
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Took the PSU apart yesterday for fan swap, and no, definitely can't see a fuse like that near AC input. Actually I'm surprised to know that PC PSUs would use this type of basic glass cartridge fuse at all. My only other PSU tear down experience was a few years ago with an older Corsair ATX unit that went dead, didn't remember seeing this kind of fuse either... Took another picture from a different angle for your judgement:


Anyway, with the fan swap, I was able to locate three SUNON 4020 fans with different power ratings (1.6w, 1.4w, and 0.8w) on the cheap. The 1.6w unit (green label) was said to be using ball bearings and reaches ~8400RPM with 30dB max, and it only had limited noise improvement over the original screamer of a fan (3w, 0.25A), while providing same or maybe even stronger airflow.
Meanwhile both the 1.4w and 0.8w (white label with green stripe) were rated ~5500RPM and they proved to be virtually silent during the whole range of operation (noise rating 18dB max). Airflow is much reduced with these two obviously, but no thermal difference that I can tell by hand feel on the PSU casing during 3D gaming. So I decided to use the 1.4w fan for the time being. Right now this PSU is even quieter than the Noctua CPU/case fans in my build, so I'm very satisfied with the result. Hopefully it holds up in the long run.

Great, thanks for sharing! ?

I also found the fuse from your new picture: it's that small black component under the black power cable. Considering the price I expected they would use one of those cheap glass fuses but seems they are using something better.

Based on your feedback I guess we can say the 500W MetalFish is fine with a fan swap for mid-range systems. The only remaining questions are: long term reliability and actual efficiency.

Edit: are you running it with 110VAC or 220VAC?
 
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Ricky Zeng

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Jun 10, 2020
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Great, thanks for sharing! ?

I also found the fuse from your new picture: it's that small black component under the black power cable. Considering the price I expected they would use one of those cheap glass fuses but seems they are using something better.

Based on your feedback I guess we can say the 500W MetalFish is fine with a fan swap for mid-range systems. The only remaining questions are: long term reliability and actual efficiency.

Edit: are you running it with 110VAC or 220VAC?
I'm on 220V AC. Spec sheet in the front label says 100-240V 50Hz, even though the giant letters next to the AC input socket only says 220V AC. Might worth checking with the seller just to be sure if anyone's going to purchase this PSU for 110V use.
 

inSparks

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Jul 29, 2020
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Just come over here from r/SFFPC but I've been keeping track of this conversation.

I've got this PSU coming with my Metalfish S3 soon so I thank you all for your input. This looks reassuring that this appears to be a genuine 500W PSU and I might not have to source a new PSU, at least not yet. My build is an R5 2600 and GTX 1660Ti so it looks like my decision to upsize the capacity was a good one. Efficiency probably isn't the best but as long as I'm not running it anywhere near the limit it looks like it's fine.
 
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Shrink Ray Wielder
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Just come over here from r/SFFPC but I've been keeping track of this conversation.

I've got this PSU coming with my Metalfish S3 soon so I thank you all for your input. This looks reassuring that this appears to be a genuine 500W PSU and I might not have to source a new PSU, at least not yet. My build is an R5 2600 and GTX 1660Ti so it looks like my decision to upsize the capacity was a good one. Efficiency probably isn't the best but as long as I'm not running it anywhere near the limit it looks like it's fine.

Correct, based on the feedback here it's one of the better ones offered on taobao and you should be fine to use the MetalFish 500W for combined 300W GPU and CPU TDP even with a fan swap. For higher end builds I personally would go with one of the well known PSU brands.

Enjoy your new build!
 
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inSparks

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Jul 29, 2020
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Correct, based on the feedback here it's one of the better ones offered on taobao and you should be fine to use the MetalFish 500W for combined 300W GPU and CPU TDP even with a fan swap. For higher end builds I personally would go with one of the well known PSU brands.

Enjoy your new build!

As the modded Enhance psu have come back in stock at Geeek, I've decided to order one. There's just too many questions that only time will answer about the Metalfish.

Might keep the Metalfish for a cheap APU or HTPC build or something.
 
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Emanski

Chassis Packer
Aug 9, 2020
20
1
hi guys, Im a new member of this group like literally just joined and read this thread. Im not very familliar with those PSU terminologies and new to pc building I am very sorry. but my situation is..

I got the bundle of S3 case and 400w psu from ali metalfish store. finished my bulid just a week ago

specs:
B450i gaming plus ac
r5 1500x (ID cooling is40x)
16gb 3000mhz vengeance LPx
Zotac OEM rx580
256gb TeamG nvme ssd
WD 380gb 2.5 hdd

in msi afterburner, I get 40° cpu & 50° gpu while gaming (apex) but I noticed that the case is getting hot. airflow from cpu or gpu is not that hot coz Im inside an airconditioned room. then I realised that the heat is coming from my PSU. the fan is not that loud on mine tho but it only starts when the system is on loads, it is not spinning when I booted the pc and during idle. is that even normal? so for now, I tend to use my pc for maximum of 3-4 hours and shut it down. coz im scared that the potential PSU problem might burn my system which I achieved from saving up money for almost a year.

I already underclocked/volted my rx580 and it helped a bit coz the PSU took longer time to get hot than before. but I think that is not the real solution. also, 1 side odlf the case is already open, I didnt bother to close it to help give more airflow.

what do you guys think? can someone help me out? should I buy another one with 500w? or there is nothing wrong with the wattage and the problem is something else?