Frankensteining an Accelero S2 gpu cooler for a low profile GPU

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
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Hi there!

For my Stoomboot project, I used a low profile MSI gtx 1050ti. The cooling is mediocre to say at least. The noisy fans were replaced by 80mm fans but the temperatures still got up to a point where I wasn't comfortable with them anymore. 85°C might be within spec but I wanted to lower that a bit. I suspected the small radiator was the guilty one.

In comes the Accelero S2 gpu cooler. I managed to trace one second hand for €10 shipped. For those of you not familiar with the Accelero 'S' line-up of Arctic, they're passive gpu radiators that can handle quite some TDP. The S2 had almost perfect dimensions to make maximum use of the space I had at hand, only the height obviously was too high.

For a full reference, check out the following page with all specs: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186017

The first thing I had to do was to make custom mounting holes in the radiator, because the low profile mounting pattern that's being used lately is a bit awkward (42 x 21 - ish). The advantage is that I got to line up the radiator on the Y axis how I wanted.

Then I had to reduce the height of the radiator. The heatpipes make that a bit complicated, but I managed to remove some of the aluminium bits and bent the heatpipes. It's not a nice sight, but it works!

I had to cut of some pieces here and there to make it fully compatible with my card, but in the end it fit, just barely! The results have been spectacular. With the same fans and the same fan curve, I want from 85°C to 55°C in Furmark!!! That's right, a thirty degrees drop! I've set the curve to completly silence under load, and it still goes no higher than 65°C :-)

Here's some pictures. If you have questions, shoot!

 

eggDK

Average Stuffer
Mar 14, 2016
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Pretty cool;) Those bent back ends of the heat pipes, do they get warm? I guess for the pipes to work, there still needs to be flow all the way to the ends..?
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
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Pretty cool;) Those bent back ends of the heat pipes, do they get warm? I guess for the pipes to work, there still needs to be flow all the way to the ends..?

Yes they do. I'm no specialist so I wouldn't really know, I'm just happy that it works :)
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Apr 28, 2017
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Looks funky but glad it works. How did you measure the holes and drill them? And how is it secured.. did you tap it or just thread it into the metal?
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
860
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Looks funky but glad it works. How did you measure the holes and drill them? And how is it secured.. did you tap it or just thread it into the metal?

With a regular ruler and a simple cordless drill really. The screws are threaded into the soft aluminium, wasn't too hard to just force them in.
 

Smanci

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Apr 21, 2017
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3rd pic looks somehow incredibly wrong and mutilated to the last possible bit. But it works great so I am a bit confused and amazed at the same time.
 

raksan

Trash Compacter
May 3, 2017
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@robbee great write up to share. I am also looking for a mod to cool my low profile. I think I have space to work with, Lone L4. I will share what I have come with.
 

aquelito

King of Cable Management
Piccolo PC
Feb 16, 2016
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@robbee : nice job ! This cooler is amazing ; case open, it easily cools my 1050 Ti passively. Case closed, with a 5V Slip Stream, it's even better.



It's also modder friendly :)

 
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Urgannagru

Trash Compacter
Sep 28, 2017
34
5
Sorry to bring g back an old thread but just wondering how easy it was to remove the fins, did it leave a clean finish? Also I think you have experience with the streacom fc8 from another post I've seen just wondering if the heat pipes are same diameter?
If so wondering about stripping the fins and using the block and fins to spread heat to the heat sink walls of the case and using the same aluminium blocks used the secure the cpu's heat pipes to the case
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Apr 28, 2017
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You can cut the fins with sheet metal shears pretty easily. Sure it will be sharp edge... just don't touch it :)
 
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Urgannagru

Trash Compacter
Sep 28, 2017
34
5
Good to know the fins are easy to cut, but I'm wondering if they're fixed (soldered or glued) to the heat pipe. I'm hoping that it's some sort of mechanical fixing that can be removed allowing the fins to be removed entirely leaving a clean hear pipe that can't be fitted flush to case wall.
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Apr 28, 2017
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They are mechanically clamped on to the heat pipe. Not easy to remove. They don't simply side off
 

Urgannagru

Trash Compacter
Sep 28, 2017
34
5
Ah scuppered, cheers for the heads up saved me a fair few quid. Back to the drawing board.
On the off chance you're not are of any neat ways of securing heat pipes to a low profile 1050? I've seen hulksters and it looks effective but the cable ties scare me
 

Urgannagru

Trash Compacter
Sep 28, 2017
34
5
Oh cheers, for some reason I'd written it out of my mind due to it being intended for full size cards rather than low profile.
I take it that it would be the case of do the same as has been done here and drill a new set of holes for the low profile spacing?
. Cheers for the replies