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I haven't done the reading but it also probably depends on what they're using inside, be it sintered powder or something else.
The problem with 8mm pipes and why you don't see them more in our part of the world is that the minimum bend radius is pretty huge. In order to not kneecap the pipe's performance, I believe you need a outer bend radius of at least 5-6x the width of the pipe. In the case of an 8mm pipe that is 40-48mm.
Has anyone tried 3D printing an Aluminum heatsink? If your case is sufficiently small, you could even combine the chassis of the case with the aluminum fins. Maybe you could use that copper block linked above and bend your own heat pipes and have them go into the aluminum. It would be expensive, but it might save a massive amount of time because then all you need to do by hand is bend and affix the heat pipes. I don't know how the thermal properties of 3D printed aluminum will be but I've read that DMLS printing results in metals with nearly the same properties.
3D printing aluminium is unaffordable; here's a shapeways' price of a 100*100*40mm heatsink I quickly sketched:
Ah ok, its good to know.3D printing aluminium is unaffordable; here's a shapeways' price of a 100*100*40mm heatsink I quickly sketched:
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Yeah I have aluminide handgrips from Shapeways that I use for a tool I developed for my work as a physiotherapist. They cost me 700 bucks a pop.
SLS Aluminum will also have inferior crystalline structure compared with a wrought piece that is stamped, extruded, or forged, so thermal conductivity would not be as high. 3D printing makes sense when you have very complex geometries; not so much for other shapes. Also, mass transfer of heat pipes and vapor chambers have higher performances than a strictly conductive structure when you have a highly concentrated heat source.
What about an 8mm heatpipe that split into 2x4mm pipes during the bend section, and then returned to an 8mm after bending?
It would still bottleneck around the bend, but maybe less so?
Ya; I know in the real world this will never happen, but I like to speculate.
If someone had the resources to really customize something, they could really make an incredible product.
I stumbled across this book on google books. Good overview of the technology.
Pages 149-167
Heat Pipes and Solid Sorption Transformations: Fundamentals and Practical Applications
https://books.google.com/books?id=MEr_HXB2RvYC&lpg=PA150&ots=SHXM2JDpQq&pg=PA149#v=onepage&q&f=false
Pages 149-167
Heat Pipes and Solid Sorption Transformations: Fundamentals and Practical Applications
https://books.google.com/books?id=MEr_HXB2RvYC&lpg=PA150&ots=SHXM2JDpQq&pg=PA149#v=onepage&q&f=false
Check this out
Our friend Jagonio was able to passively cool an i5-6400T and a 1050 Ti in a 5-liter HFX mCubed case (14 euros). Using a very interesting flat heat pipe from AMEC Thermasol (10 euros), an old ARCTIC Accelero S1 Rev. 2 (12 euros), and a HDPLEX power supply. Both CPU and GPU never reach 65°C.
Holy shit
and
http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/AchatsVentes/Hardware/config-fanless-6400t-sujet_493974_9.htm
Maybe another one of his builds.
Couldn't tell you what that is, I dont speak french...
Our friend Jagonio was able to passively cool an i5-6400T and a 1050 Ti in a 5-liter HFX mCubed case (14 euros). Using a very interesting flat heat pipe from AMEC Thermasol (10 euros), an old ARCTIC Accelero S1 Rev. 2 (12 euros), and a HDPLEX power supply. Both CPU and GPU never reach 65°C.
Holy shit
and
http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/AchatsVentes/Hardware/config-fanless-6400t-sujet_493974_9.htm
Maybe another one of his builds.
Couldn't tell you what that is, I dont speak french...
Fantastic ^^, that looks very similar the idea I was having.
I looks like he's using the pico-PSU with an external power brick?
Above the flat heatpipe (which is basically the same thing as a vapor chamber, no?) Is an aluminum mount, and the second cooler sits above that. If he could get rid of that aluminum layer, heat would transfer better into his top heatsink.
Also, heat won't move very effectively into most of the case's side fins. The heatpipe is only making contact with the centre fins. Maybe if he had a second flat heatpipe sitting flat against the case's sides?
Here's a pic, so the red fins will be hot, but not the others. The purple is where I think he could add another flat heatpipe.
I looks like he's using the pico-PSU with an external power brick?
Above the flat heatpipe (which is basically the same thing as a vapor chamber, no?) Is an aluminum mount, and the second cooler sits above that. If he could get rid of that aluminum layer, heat would transfer better into his top heatsink.
Also, heat won't move very effectively into most of the case's side fins. The heatpipe is only making contact with the centre fins. Maybe if he had a second flat heatpipe sitting flat against the case's sides?
Here's a pic, so the red fins will be hot, but not the others. The purple is where I think he could add another flat heatpipe.
Sure, make it yourself or have someone make it for you. It definitely looks to be a 2D profile, so it should be too hard to duplicate it in copper. You may want to make it thicker than (what appears to be) the aluminum clamp to maintain mechanical properties. If it is steel, you'd want to make it even thicker to make sure you have sufficient clamping pressure on the CPU.
You just want to make sure there is a good tight fit between the heat pipe and the heat spreader on the CPU. Lack of rigidity in the clamping piece could mean it would deform while trying to clamp down on the heat pipe, resulting in a less than ideal mate at the thermal interface.
