I've seen plenty of fan swaps on Corsair 80+ Gold units. There's easy to find adapters for that. I have a SF600 80+ Platinum, and just wanted to give a head's up that the internal connector is different. I hadn't seen anyone do this mod on a 80+ Platinum unit so, I figured I'd throw it out there and maybe help someone save a quick $10 so they don't have to accidentally order two adapters like I did. I'm pretty sure the regular 80+ Gold units use just a 3-pin Mini-GPU (with only two wires) to 3-pin normal size fan connector.
The 80+ Platinum uses a 4-wire PWM fan. I was able to find a 4-pin mini-GPU fan head to regular 4-pin PWM fan header adapter, and put it in the power supply. The PSU has the female end, with the pins on it, the fan has the male end that plugs into it. I then put in a Noctua NF-A9x14 HS Chromax fan, and left the grill removed from the unit. It's inside a case anyways, a grill is a little unnecessary and it will help keep noise down if the fan decides to ramp up.The adapter cable itself was about four inches long, and the cable on the fan was pretty long, but I found a good way to loop it around so that it wouldn't really block any airflow or be close to any circuitry components. The decorative sleeving on the wires shouldn't be conductive, but, I wasn't going to chance it on the inside of the PSU lol
Here's some pictures, you can kind of see the route I did for the cables and the cable adapter itself.
INFORMATION ON CORSAIR SF POWER SUPPLY RECALLS:
I'm amending the original post to include some information about Corsair SF PSU's, since there is a recall on some of them. It might make getting your unit replaced under a recall difficult if you mod it first, so, here's a heads-up on the scoop.
There is currently a recall on some Corsair SF-line power supplies. It's mostly in markets outside of North America it seems, but it seems some PSU's may "brick" them selves under certain conditions.
The recall is for power supplies
produced between 8/19 and 3/20, which are units that fall between serial numbers
194448xx, and up to 201148xx. My unit is a 1943xxxx, so fortunately my specific unit is not in need of replacement.
You can learn more at the following link:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/15829/corsair-sf-series-psu-recall
UPDATE: Fan header re-pinning required!
Thanks to user "NRG," he's brought something to my attention I did not initially discover. I didn't initially have a system to test this but I overlooked something I should have noticed at first; fan header lay-out. The layout between the Corsair NR092L and typical fan headers are a bit different. So, some de-pinning and replacing of the header on your Noctua fan is required. It's relatively easy as well, so let's show you what you need to do.
Consider the adapter as just a jumper, this is what the wiring looks like between the two headers. So basically we need to move the wires around on the regular fan header.
Noctua NF-A9x14HS with header face-up:
Black - Yellow - Green - Blue
Corsair NR092L with header face-up:
Yellow - Blue - Black - Green
Basically, you just need to swap the wires on your Noctua fan's header so they line up color for color with the Corsair header, as long as the headers are in the same orientation as this image. So, if labelling the headers on the Noctua fan as Black -
Yellow -
Green -
Blue, we can change that to 1 2 3 4 for simplicity sake. We need to change the number orientation as follows:
Originally: 1 2 3 4
Re-pinned: 2 4 1 3
It's a bit difficult to visualize it give that the Chromax Black version of the Noctua NF-A9x14HS has all black wiring under the sleeving and from the fan hub. Looking at the back of the noctua fan (as well as three other regular PWM Noctua fans) I've concluded that they're always layed out the same way, off the motor hub to the header as the 1 2 3 4 lay-out, in a ribbon cable that makes it easy to follow and track each wire. I skinned the sleeve off of the wire, to make sure I can trace it properly when re-pinning.
Lastly, how to actually remove the pins from the header. It's quite simple. You take a small fine pointed tool like tweezers or a screw driver, and push on the side of the connector opening slot towards the wires. Then you can gently pull the wire out of the connector with the metal attached. If it's not coming out easy, you aren't pushing down hard enough. It takes a little getting use to the first few times you've done it, and it can be easy to damage, so just be gentle and slowly add force if need be. After removing, make sure you insert into the new slow on the header the correct way (with the curled side facing the slotted side of the header.) otherwise it won't bite correctly. Give the wire a little tug, make sure it's seated. It may take an attempt or two, or you may need to push the wire in from the back side with your device you're using to take the header out to really push it all the way in. Do so carefully as not to cut wiring insulation or break the wire. Once all that is done, and your fan is installed, you fan should spin up once it's under the correct heat or wattage load.
