Log Builders Hubris (SFFN 2589) - A brickless X300/4070 Super build in ~4L

Curiosity

It doesn't have to make sense to be fun!
Original poster
Platinum Supporter
Bronze Supporter
M...M...M...M...Multi-Tier...Subscriber...
Apr 30, 2016
741
866
Howdy y'all.
I've built a new PC to replace the X300-M(ax) build I did a few years ago (link in sig)
This time I decided to skip the build log until I was done, since last time the build log lasted like 2 years and made me feel some pressure and kinda dumb for taking so long.

As a general overview of the build process:


I went on a week long trip for work, and really hated how much space the X300-M(AX) took up in my luggage, especially since I had flown it and removed the watercooling, leaving a ton of space unused.
And to make it worse for the case, I designed it with specifically 2 slot GPU's up to 300mm in length in mind, and right after I finished it, it seemed like all the GPU manufacturers decided 2 slots are for idiots and 2.25+ is the way of the future, so the GPU market kinda killed the X300-M(AX).

~March 30 2024
I started off by scheming about building a X300/WLP350-1003(from my last build)/4060LP in about 2.4L, which would be a sidestep from the RX6600 I had at the time:
1755743001672.png
I ended up staying with the sandwich design, but moving to a larger design with my RX6600 in mind.
I also was able to mock it up a little using my old A300, torched WLP350, and by printing the 4060 LP roughup and the Neutrik powerCON connector I was super interested in at the time:
1755788090876.png
Once I realized that the 4060LP was a $400 sidestep, I had trouble committing, though 2.5L down from 5.69L was EXTREMELY appealing.

~April 10 2024
You can see the similarities in the layout early on, notably the RX6600 took vertical space by not being an LP card, but because it was longer It left plenty of room to fit the WLP350-1003 next to the motherboard: 1755743191038.png
It was also around this time I was playing HD2, and very unhappy with my performance so I upgraded to a Zotac Twin Edge 4070 Super, choosing it specifically because of it's length + 2 slot formfactor. The SFFN review played a big part in my choosing it!

~July 20 2024
Browsing the SFFN Forum/discord, and the r/sffpc custom case discord channel, maybe @REVOCCASES discord, I came across the Meanwell LOP-300-12, a much smaller PSU that is nearly as capable as my existing WLP350-1003.
1755743700078.png


At this point I was using a 3d Printed frame for standoffs, and planning to bolt an aluminum plate to it for heat sinking, which may or may not have worked out, but I ended up ditching it for a fully metallic spine later on. You can kind of see it in the picture above where the Mobo side is the generic F360 grey, and the GPU side is blackish to emulate the CF Nylon I intended to print the main spine out of.
At this piont I was also intending to skip bending at all, and just bolt flat plates to mod cubes to save on bending costs.

~August 25 2024
At this point I'd decided I wanted to theme the PC over vocaloid Meiko, because I like her and that's fun, and you can kinda see it on the case here and there.
You can also see I added some 50mm fan analogs to the LOP, because it can't hit it's 300W max without active cooling.

1755743998325.png

I also had ordered this main panel, and got to test it out in real life, I did G90 galvanized for cost reasons which I was very thankful for when I realized how many mistakes I made lmao.
You can see my printed power button carrier, power button (mounted to a mech kb switch), and printed rear panel.
I had at this point gotten my C13/14 inlet outlet and power switches in.
1755786030439.png

Also, a comparison to my old case:
You can see just how much smaller 3.8ish liters is compared to almost 6. Also that I have my A300 still >.>

1755786141107.png

~August 28 2024

I completely started from scratch to clean up my fusion timeline, ambitiously calling the new file '4070 Project v2 clean final', LOL.
Noteworthy changes being the deletion of the Meiko theming, and a SLIGHT volume increase to allow me to rotate the PSU 90*.
I also moved to a single large flange for the main body, planning to attach the rear panel with little flange tabs to the main panel (this would be foolish in the end)

1755786344078.png

~September 30 2024

Big changes! I determined maybe bending the spine to give it tapped flanges would be a better idea than using cubes.

1755785461684.png
Here's some pictures of the wiring, and testing.
The riser I was using was new to me, and unlike my old ADTLINK riser from my last build that was happy with just 12v to run the GPU, this new one wants 5v as well from the sata power connector. So I sourced a random picopsu, hooked up it's sata input and cut wires until it wouldn't boot. Specifically I knew I needed 12v, so I just tried cutting 5v on one sata power connector, which killed the system power, and then swapped to a fresh sata power connector and cut the 3.3v which had no effect.
1755786644908.png
My initial reaction to this discovery was to desolder the 24pin connector and solder a jumper to the picopsu + some 12v outputs for the riser and motherboard.
 
Last edited:

Curiosity

It doesn't have to make sense to be fun!
Original poster
Platinum Supporter
Bronze Supporter
M...M...M...M...Multi-Tier...Subscriber...
Apr 30, 2016
741
866
~September 30 2024
If you're curious how I'm connecting the GPU, here's the secret sauce; and OCULINK to M.2 and OCULINK to PCIE adapter pair:
1755788466946.png
1755788656598.png
You'll notice a return of the Meiko theming, as well as some bowing of the rear panel because this aluminum 'U' panel was bent a little under spec.
You may also notice I've gotten the real mod cubes, I went with 6x10x10 cubes instead of the more common 10^3 cubes.
Also special guest appearance from revocases in his discord, as well as my Vamp customs 12vhpwr cable, made special with MR30 connectors to mate up with my internal wiring. I like to use MR30's for their small size, overkill amperage rating, and 3 pole design. Even more so after I found some black ones on aliexpress.
Lastly, I wired in a voltage display for my 12v>5v converter for fun.
One thing I didn't point out in the first post was that I accidentally wired the power input to my picoPSU backwards when I was attempting to use it for voltage conversion/ distribution, and it blew up. So i sawpped to a simpler and smaller 12v to 5v single purpose board.
~November 2024
The PC was working well enough to take it with me to a 2 week trip in NM!
1755789024182.png
This was actually the only time I used it on the whole trip...
But it worked a charm!
~January 2025
I saw someone in the r/sffpc discord using triangular venting, and liked it. So I told him I was gonna borrow it for my one-off and he said sure. :)
I also found out during some testing I didn't photograph well, that the top panel needed a LOT more venting, so I turned it into swiss cheese, lol.
1755790095581.png
I also finally modeled in the wifi antenna holes, but after installing them I really hated how far they stuck out compared to the rest of the case.
In the model the PCI bracket protrudes from the rear of the case, but in real life the 4070S is directly attached to the top of the case with the same screws that hold the bracket in place normally.

~February/March 2025
After fine tuning the Digikey antenna filter criteria very specifically, I found the perfect answer to my woes:
The KYOCERA 1000418 RF ANTENNA 802.11a/b/g/n/c, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, WLAN, Zigbee™ Stamped Metal U.FL Screw Mount

The only issue would be that once I finally bought the right U.fl antenna wires, was how do I protect those delicate antenna elements?
1755789679204.png
The answer: A special made 3d Printed cover, not only does it protect the fragile mounts and easily disconnected U.FL connectors, but it also disguises my remnant WiFi antenna hole that I kept just in case these antennas didn't work out.
I did end up touching up the design for this before I lost it entirely somehow, and I tightened up the screw reliefs, and changed the exposed infill percentage.
Also covered that exposed section of antenna.
1755789865215.png
You can also see here my triangular venting has now moved across the whole PC for continuity, and it was working well.
That was, until I picked it up wrong and the over-flexible printed panel on the GPU side flexed into the 4070S' rear fan, instantly snapping a blade off.
I was without a GPU for 45 days while I waited on Zotac to graciously warranty it for me. Right after I started playing CP77 for the first time too! D:
1755790022698.png
Also for those curious, my power inlet wiring:
1755790264887.png
At this point I'd finally fully abandoned the Meiko theming and shifted to the idea of going for an MC-130J theme.
That meaning, satin grey exterior, zinc plated countersunk phillips head screws whenever possible and visible, and a gloss white interior.
Unfortunately I didn't prepare the aluminum correctly, and while I got away scott free on the rear panel which you can see in some of the wifi antenna pics, the U panel gave me hell. The satin grey did just fine, but when I masked that and painted the interior gloss white, it bubbled all over the place, requiring a full repaint ;-;
~April-July 2025
The last few months were a blue of small tweaks here and there, fine tuning in ways that don't translate well to photos.
I got my 4070S back and redid the Overclock/Undervolt, Swapped my L9A for a METALFISH DH380 with an IDcooling TF-9215. And another TF-9215 to cool the PSU (previously an A9x14)
For me, the aesthetic of the new fans and ability to light the PC make the marginal noise increse worth it over the noctua fans, and the DH380 is just as good if not marginally better in my build vs the L9A. It's also lighter, which to me matters a bit.
Speaking of weight, the final weight of the PC is only 5.303 POUNDS (2.4KG)!

1755790950174.png
With the system complete I was finally able to do a PPL calculation:
((9820* 12707) / (3.78)^1.5))/100= .....261,188 (249,226 with feet(3.9L))

In this pic you can see the white interior and grey exterior, and also my failed custom power switch. In the end I'd go with a 16mm bulgin switch.
I couldn't fit the provided nut, so I used the mounting screws for my old power switch idea to mount a printer clamp around the back of the switch to lock it in place, as well as to fit the smart card reader I installed.....that don't ever work, oopsie.

For my USB accessories (2 ports on the rear, smart card reader, Nollie1 ARGB controller) I used a Retrocution tiny USB hub paired with someDIY custom internal USB wiring. It's wired as such:
1755791807149.png
 
Last edited:

Curiosity

It doesn't have to make sense to be fun!
Original poster
Platinum Supporter
Bronze Supporter
M...M...M...M...Multi-Tier...Subscriber...
Apr 30, 2016
741
866
Builders Hubris.jpg
It is, COMPLETE! (or as complete as a project can be).
I took it to Quakecon 2025 and had a blast, it was so easy to move and setup, a great experience as always.
IMG_20250808_004615436_HDR.jpg
I took my iPad screen that's been in a few pics here so far, as we as a brand new 2k 144hz 16" Uperfect display for 2Q25, it was a great pairing.

Final volumes (measured from CAD, all protrusions)
160mm x 256mm x 103mm - 4.2L (with feet)
160mm x 246mm x 103mm - 4L (without feet)
155mm x 245mm x 103mm - 3.9L (No protrusions)

I will be hosting the final F360 file in the resources forum for anyone that wants to look through it, or possibly replicate this in part or whole.

I will be absolutely happy to pull up some more pics if anyone has any questions!
 
Last edited: