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Log 4L Custom STX Case Deskmini X300 with RTX GPU (brickless) 3d printed

morj

Airflow Optimizer
Bronze Supporter
Feb 11, 2020
362
695
Overall good job with wiring and insulation, but what is going on near the GPU connector?


 

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Shrink Ray Wielder
REVOCCASES
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Apr 2, 2020
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www.revoccases.com
looking good!

I'd just be a little concerned about the DC barrel jack you are using. Most of them are only good to handle 2A ~ 3A and since you are running on 12V I'd probably try to find a better quality one at some point.

1671436551599.png

for my DSX1 STX Project I used some of those gold plated / HiFi grade DC connectors and if paired with some thick cables I found they work well up to 100 ~ 120W @ 12V

1671437194496.png

If you use some shrink tube instead of the plastic housing, you could also turn them into an "angled version" ...

alternatively, you could solder the DC input directly to the board, like NFC did this in one of his recent STX builds

1671437788647.png
 
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morj

Airflow Optimizer
Bronze Supporter
Feb 11, 2020
362
695
Tip: to avoid corners that look like this, try adding some slight radius to them (like 0.5mm or more depending on your nozzle diameter).

Printers have a hard time printing perfect 90° in the plane of the build plate because sharp turns cause excess filament to be pushed out and around the corner.

 

Da_Korn

Average Stuffer
Original poster
Dec 30, 2019
66
130
Overall good job with wiring and insulation, but what is going on near the GPU connector?



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looking good!

I'd just be a little concerned about the DC barrel jack you are using. Most of them are only good to handle 2A ~ 3A and since you are running on 12V I'd probably try to find a better quality one at some point.

View attachment 2216

for my DSX1 STX Project I used some of those gold plated / HiFi grade DC connectors and if paired with some thick cables I found they work well up to 100 ~ 120W @ 12V

View attachment 2217

If you use some shrink tube instead of the plastic housing, you could also turn them into an "angled version" ...

alternatively, you could solder the DC input directly to the board, like NFC did this in one of his recent STX builds

View attachment 2219
Thanks for your advice. I´d probably go for the soldering solution.


Tip: to avoid corners that look like this, try adding some slight radius to them (like 0.5mm or more depending on your nozzle diameter).

Printers have a hard time printing perfect 90° in the plane of the build plate because sharp turns cause excess filament to be pushed out and around the corner.


Oh yes. I forgot to make Radiuses in the Design. The final one will get some. Also less rework after printing is done.





Here´s a Picture form the MB-Side. Think it looks quite clean so far. Cable Management looks much better than last time: