5 Liters & 12 Volts

CottonTexas

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Original poster
Oct 14, 2019
111
72
Hello everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster. I would like to pick your brains here for some guidance on what I do & don't need for an automotive / RV friendly 12vDC-native video-editing / gaming PC. First, I'll start by telling you what I've got, as well as what I plan on getting, and then ask for advice on what I'm unsure of.

I already have an i7-8700T, an ASUS B360-I ROG STRIX (according to WCCFtech here the F-variant is remarkably efficient), and a Zotac GTX 1650.

In the plan is a 1tb Samsung M.2 970 PRO, 16Gx2 Corsair LPX DDR4-2666 (though I may choose a lower speed here to conserve power), and a Scythe Big Shuriken 3 ...because the Noctua NH-12S doesn't come with a backing plate, and neither does the T-series Intel CPU. :(

I'm considering one of two 5L cases, the first being the Lazer3D HT5 which is just sooper-sweet, but I have a strict no-show policy on the hardware, and they're currently out of non-see-through side panels, and man, I really wish I could get the white oak fascia on a black case. I believe I remember the front panels being for sale for ~$35, but add that to the ~$15 for the matte-opaque side panel, and you're talking quite a bit of loot even when they were available; but I digress - It does have chassis mounts @ 144mm that will likely allow for the Mini-Box M2-ATX-160W @ 146mm which we'll return to in a bit.

The other option is the Lone Industries L5. I love the straight-forward no-nonsense utilitarian design, and it's great to see that Lone has even been working on new stuff like the Mean Well adapter here, and while I'm unsure what the mounting dimensions are, it makes me think that there's hope yet for an internal DC-DC PSU - even if light modification may be necessary.

A big question I have is about the M2-ATX PSU. I'm sure y'all are tired of being asked, but I'd like to know if the 160W is enough juice. I've tried my best to select the most energy efficient pieces, but I've calculated consumption @ 146W under full load with spikes as high as 251W, and the alternative is something like this 20vDC converter here that'll reduce efficiency, and add to the cost as well as the price of an HDPlex 400W.

If the wattage is sufficient, there's still a matter of compatibility between the board & the Mini-Box PSU. The M2-ATX has 20-pin ATX & 4-pin P4 connections whereas the MoBo has 24pin ATX & 8-pin EPS connections. I've read here & there that this is all just fine, but it sure would be nice if I could power everything that needs it - I knew I was going to learn to crimp when I decided on a 5L case, but I'm a bit nervous about power from any single terminal getting spread too thin.

Anyway, sorry for such a lengthy post, but thank you to all of y'all that have decided to read it. Your input and advice would be greatly appreciated as well, so please feel free to post your thoughts and/or opinions. Cheers, Cotton
 
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CottonTexas

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Original poster
Oct 14, 2019
111
72
Scored a Lone L4 case this morning (love this forum), along with a G-Unique, so it looks like fate has told me what I'll be using to distribute power. Very cool because that was absolutely one of the cases I wanted, but I never thought I'd get (totally stoked - I LOVE this case), however now the question is how to clean up the automotive 12vDC (which is actually anywhere from 11vDC-14vDC "wide") to a nice standard electronic-friendly ("narrow") 12vDC for the G-Unique.

The Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 has 8-pin leads, as does the G-Unique, and I wonder whether they might play well together (out of the box might be a little much to ask for, but it sure would be nice.) Basically, I'm wondering if I can use the Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 in place of a Dell brick since I'm not using wall-power, but a 12vDC battery.

Not sure where to ask such things - It seems out of place for the The G-Unique thread, but I guess I could start a new thread about the Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 and ask if anyone's done it; especially since I'm trying to figure out how to cool that unit with a fan setup as well (and just hope it does slightly better than this thread so-far). :)

Anyway, hopefully someone that's toyed with these kinds of things will chime in, otherwise this might as well be a personal blog - lol. Thanks @Solo for the reply. I'd already read some of Thehack's stuff, and he doesn't seem to deal much with "wide input" 12vDC stuff, but I thank you all the same for your input. Cheers, Cotton
 

CottonTexas

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Original poster
Oct 14, 2019
111
72
One year later, and what've I got to show for myself?



(Mod edit; fixed image)

Well, there she is. I'll be updating things like my sig. to reflect the specs, as well as the Linux vs. Windows thread, but I just got everything all put together, and figured I'd post. It looks like I might be able to fit a Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 in the front of the case, and I'll use 10AWG 2-prong connectors in the cable to switch between the brick, and 12vDC. I'll likely post again once I've got the DC side of everything sorted. Cheers, Cotton
 
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