Prototype 4.1L case designed

Day VReamer

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Hi all,

Just wanted a case that met my needs and have designed the below. It can take a m-ITX motherboard and IO plate, Flex ATX psu, has sufficient space for a 13.5cm high GPU up to 173.48mm long (absolute maximum including bracket), so can take gigabyte 1070/1080 mini, and most of the other 1050/1060 mini's.

It will likely be able to fit 1 SSD. I use an M.2 SSD so not too much of an issue for me but I'll confirm.

Fan clearance is exactly 40mm so probably just under than for the CPU heatsink/fan is probably best.

I've had a quote to get my original design made, (few changes since) so have an idea of cost.

I'll consider getting a prototype made but if anyone is interested let me know and I'll update following prototype.

Photos will be uploaded shortly.

External dimensions are 177.48 x 223.58 x 103.1mm

Mark
 
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Day VReamer

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Couple of pics below. It will have standoffs to support the motherboard and planning to put a sheet of acrylic on the back of the motherboard to prevent shortages.

It could also fit something like an HDPlex 160 but I'd need to add a cutout for the power input instead of the holes etc for the flex atx.




 
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Day VReamer

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Thanks, it’s not meant to be complicated and just started as a way of making my own system smaller as the wife doesn’t like computers taking up much space. I’m actually also getting a 4.3L case cut out of acrylic but that was only designed for my current 1050ti low profile single fan gpu, and hdplex psu. I’m guessing that won’t be of too much interest to ppl but could be a cheap option for people if they want a basic gaming system.
 

Thehack

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It would look better if you clean up vents a bit.

I recommend the flex atx fan vent just be a large opening as the tiny fan is already overworking.

I have thought about using a reverse standoff design, but it makes changes a pain and I'd be a bit worried how safe and stable the motherboard is.

If you want to support hdplex 160, you need to add some more clearance to the front of the case. It would also benefit being able to wire up the 24pin. The reverse standoff makes it more difficult.
 

Day VReamer

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In relation to the HDPlex 160, I have the AC-DC power block and the 160 DC - ATX converter. The 24 pin can be connected with a short 24-24 atx cable.

I did consider just leaving the vent open, would make cutting time quicker as well - not that that matters too much but it would definately help the fan.

With the standoffs, I did consider starting off as wide as possible and then reduce size nearer the motherboard to help stabilizing.

You're right with the overall vent design could be done differently, again it will be different to everyone's taste, I just went for simple but can review it.

This is the other design which is 5mm acrylic sheet with space for a low profile gpu, again about 39 mm room for heatsink/fan and designed for HDPlex 160 ac-dc and dc-atx. Also has space for 2 x 50mm fans. The motherboard is fixed to the central divide so no stability issue (if there is one with the other case).

Again I'm using an m.2 ssd. Then I have a 1050ti, 7700k with Noctua L9i. Overall dimensions are 193.83mm x 117.78 x 187.72 (4.285L)

If anyone is interested in this case design let me know, I'll be getting this prototype much quicker than the above case.

 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Larger vent now added to prevent any cooling issues with the flex atx


It's looking nice!

Pro tip: Use thinner metal. In your first post you can see holes at the edges where the panels get screwed on. Using a thinner metal will alleviate that somewhat.
 

Day VReamer

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Thanks for the tip, I could go with thinner sheet, this is 2mm, so could lose half a mm or so (I'm looking to do it in stainless steel so it should cope).

The other option I have considered is doing angled corners so that they meet with the 'lid' at 45 degrees so no gaps will be visible.

I got some pics back from the factory today of them 'testing' the design on their simulator of sorts and am still changing the odd bit here and there - I just removed some of the fold and moved the holes for the side section nearer the edge to make it easier to get the GPU in.


 

Thehack

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Thanks for the tip, I could go with thinner sheet, this is 2mm, so could lose half a mm or so (I'm looking to do it in stainless steel so it should cope).

The other option I have considered is doing angled corners so that they meet with the 'lid' at 45 degrees so no gaps will be visible.

I got some pics back from the factory today of them 'testing' the design on their simulator of sorts and am still changing the odd bit here and there - I just removed some of the fold and moved the holes for the side section nearer the edge to make it easier to get the GPU in.



Steel you can down to 1mm, which is preferable for such a small case.
 

Day VReamer

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Initially I was thinking aluminium which is why I went 2mm, but have since considered steel due to the standoffs/pemserts being steel.

Pic of the change to the hole spacing to assist with GPU installation

 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Initially I was thinking aluminium which is why I went 2mm, but have since considered steel due to the standoffs/pemserts being steel.

Pic of the change to the hole spacing to assist with GPU installation


There should be no issue with steel hardware in aluminum.

Also, do you know what program that is that they use to simulate the bends? That looks sweet!
 

Day VReamer

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I don’t know what software it is unfortunately but I’ll find out :)

I am torn about aluminium/steel, each could give quite different finished effects and each has its own benefits
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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I don’t know what software it is unfortunately but I’ll find out :)

I am torn about aluminium/steel, each could give quite different finished effects and each has its own benefits

You can anodize aluminum.....
Steel rusts but can be thinner....
Aluminum is corrosion resistant but thicker....
Steel is heavy....
Aluminum is light....

Basically, flip a coin. Each one has its respective ups and downs....
 
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