Log 2200G custom compact case build

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
I'm starting a new build with an AMD processor, and my first main system to have one since having a Phenom II. It's a pretty modest rig with a B450 motherboard and Ryzen 3 2200G which I picked up for some good prices.

Here are the complete specs of the computer as it is right now:

- CPU/APU: Ryzen 3 2200G with Vega 8 graphics
- Motherboard: Asrock B450 Gaming ITX/ac
- Memory: 2x4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4-2400
- Heatsink: Zalman CNPS2X with AM4 adapter
- Hard drive: 500GB Western Digital Blue SSD
- OS: Manjaro Linux 20.1 (and later dual-boot with Windows 10)
- Power supply: HD-Plex 160W first-generation with 150W Dell Alienware AC adapter
- Case: Custom built, aluminum



The case built around it should be pretty small and meant for APU-only builds, but with some extra space to allow internal power supplies and at least one 2.5" hard drive.

I plan to go brick-less with the build later to make full use of that case. The CPU cooler might be replaced later with a DIY passive heatsink setup if I find temperatures to be good. So some undervolting would be done. The 2200G isn't something most people intend to overclock on the CPU side anyways, as the focus tends to be on overclocking the RAM for gaming.
 
  • Like
Reactions: August

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
I installed a new copy of Windows 10 Pro and moved my personal files from the Linux build to it. Will be using Win10 mostly now till I get the GRUB thing worked out. The new system runs great and I'm impressed by what the APU can do. Overwatch is the key esports title here and it can maintain 60 FPS in low-mid settings at 1080p with DDR4 RAM in its stock 2400 Mhz speed.

The APU runs rather hot in games and CPU intensive loads, hovering around 85 to 90 C. But that's really my bad, because I have not actually yet put thermal paste underneath the cooler from doing some quick hardware and BIOS tests before installing Windows. I'll add thermal past later today and hopefully the temps will be more reasonable.

For the case I'm planning on making the shape longer from front to back. The power supply and SSD area will be in front of the motherboard. Think of the case being like a smaller Antec ISK 300, or a slightly larger Wii. The profile will be thin at around 50 mm.
 

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
I added thermal paste and the load temperatures are much better. I get 65-70C in gaming and graphics benchmarks with open-air setup. Only get up to 90C in a few CPU heavy computation work which may be a cause of CPU clock and voltage settings set to auto. It possibly varies by BIOS and motherboard, but I heard that leaving the auto settings sometimes causes the APU to draw crazy amounts of voltage, pushing the temperatures very high.

The CNPS2X fan also has a quirk in that it's a bit rattly in horizontal mode, and sometimes bangs against the copper heatsink because the spindle can move off-center. It's mostly a problem in that you have to baby sit it somewhat in an open-air setup and will get more so in a closed case.

To counteract that, I decided to buy a heatsink to experiment with semi-passive cooling.



The heatsink is 27mm tall (same as the Zalman cooler) and 69 x 120mm in area. It's black oxide coated aluminum and 22 straight fins which seems good enough to run passively in mild operations. Shipping will take a while longer than expected, and I will probably not get it until next week.

Edit: I also know there is the Arctic Alpine 12 passive cooler, but that one is 42mm taller and I wanted to try out anyway to see if a shorter heatsink with higher fin density could also work.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: REVOCCASES

REVOCCASES

Shrink Ray Wielder
REVOCCASES
Silver Supporter
Apr 2, 2020
2,085
3,372
www.revoccases.com
I've also made some tests with passive cooling and similar heatsinks. I guess you should be fine with up to 25w with this. If your case has a fan blowing over the fins, maybe more. a good way to lower the temps is to limit the PPT.
 

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
I've also made some tests with passive cooling and similar heatsinks. I guess you should be fine with up to 25w with this. If your case has a fan blowing over the fins, maybe more. a good way to lower the temps is to limit the PPT.
I think PPT is for Ryzen 3000 series only, but I'll have to check my BIOS if the option is in there.
 

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
So far I haven't found any PPT option in the BIOS or Ryzen Master for the APU. I have to conclude it doesn't exist for my mobo/CPU combo at the moment.

Regardless, I was able to overclock the RAM quite decently to a 3133Mhz speed and 16-17-18-38 timings. RAM voltage is up only slightly to 1.22V because my motherboard refuses to boot if I increase it anywhere close to 1.3V. Framerates have received a noticeable increase. Still in awe of how smoothly Titanfall 2 runs on it.
 

Stevo_

Master of Cramming
Jul 2, 2015
449
304
I added thermal paste and the load temperatures are much better. I get 65-70C in gaming and graphics benchmarks with open-air setup. Only get up to 90C in a few CPU heavy computation work which may be a cause of CPU clock and voltage settings set to auto. It possibly varies by BIOS and motherboard, but I heard that leaving the auto settings sometimes causes the APU to draw crazy amounts of voltage, pushing the temperatures very high.

The CNPS2X fan also has a quirk in that it's a bit rattly in horizontal mode, and sometimes bangs against the copper heatsink because the spindle can move off-center. It's mostly a problem in that you have to baby sit it somewhat in an open-air setup and will get more so in a closed case.

To counteract that, I decided to buy a heatsink to experiment with semi-passive cooling.



The heatsink is 27mm tall (same as the Zalman cooler) and 69 x 120mm in area. It's black oxide coated aluminum and 22 straight fins which seems good enough to run passively in mild operations. Shipping will take a while longer than expected, and I will probably not get it until next week.

Edit: I also know there is the Arctic Alpine 12 passive cooler, but that one is 42mm taller and I wanted to try out anyway to see if a shorter heatsink with higher fin density could also work.

My MSI B450I with 2400g had wildly varying and seemingly unhealthy voltage levels for Si when I first got it, don't remember if TDP cap to 65w in BIOS fixed or the one BIOS upgrade, or combo maybe of both fixed it. Stable and cool now, didn't hurt performance.
 
Last edited:

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
I finally got my heatsink. It was cheap but the shipping service is kind of weird, with DHL eCommerce tracking then passing it on to USPS which makes delivery time a week slower than the usual way. The important thing is I have it in my hands and appears to fit my build well.



Four holes will be drilled on the bottom to line up with the mounting points in the motherboard. Its rectangular shape makes a lot of sense for AM4 here and there should be no interference with motherboard components.
 
  • Like
Reactions: REVOCCASES

CC Ricers

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
Bronze Supporter
Nov 1, 2015
2,234
2,557
Drilling the holes isn't going as planned. Turns out my battery powered drill isn't up to the task to drill through the solid aluminum block very well. These holes will be blind threaded holes so I cannot add screws to the other side to hold it in place.

The backup option would be to use zip ties through the motherboard holes, run across the openings of the heatsink that are between the fins. It's stupid but it may work XD