Quite true...the only scenario that makes it worthwhile (IMHO) is for a benchmarker trying to set some kind of record.
Log Would appreciate your thoughts on my prospective build
- Thread starter findingmyfeet
- Start date
Ok thanks @laughingman so don't bother with 3600 CL14, just stay on 3200 CL14? Not concerneded about budget for it but if it's a diminishing return then appreciate it's probably not worth the extra 45% premium.
XMP 3600 C14 vs XMP 3200 C14 - you won't see any difference in day-to-day usage. benchmark scores will be different but not worth the premium, unless your productivity workload utilises RAM in a very special way
XMP 3600 C16 to then tune to 3600 C14 - not worth the effort as I replied previously
Personally I was using XMP 3200 C16 and now 3600 C18 - plenty fast enough for gaming and day-to-day usage. so IMO 3200 C14 is the sort-of a convergence of low latency, high compatibility and value for money.
I can second that, bought 3600 CL16 flat and they performed exactly as my 3200 Cl16 - also in benchmarks
The only major, noticeable difference between RAM speeds is with significantly bandwidth or latency limited workloads - iGPU gaming, some database workloads, and a few other edge cases.
I spent an hour or two getting my Ryzen 5 Pro 4650G to run my (Micron rev. E) 3200c16 kit at 3800c16, and there's a very noticeable uptick in gaming performance there. But the overall system performance is the same. I also had a pretty easy time, just plugged in some numbers from dram calc and spent a tiny bit of time tuning some voltages for stability, and it's been 100% stable since. I was very lucky. Most RAM OC experiences are the complete opposite, with a lot of fine tuning and tweaking and overall a major time expenditure for small gains in the end.
AMD and Intel CPUs both gain overall performance going from, say, 3200c16 to 3600c16, or especially from something stock like 2133 or 2400 and to those speeds. But is it really noticeable in the real world unless you're actively looking for it? That's debatable. On my main system (5800X) I've just enabled DOCP (3200C14) and left it there. I have a vague idea of pushing it higher at some point as my RAM should handle it (Samsung B-die), but initial tests showed that even 3600 with dram calc numbers wasn't stable, and I wanted to actually use my system (!) rather than spend hours and hours tweaking RAM settings and testing stability.
My two cents: unless you have a workload you know benefits from the fastest ram speed possible, get an affordable 3600C16 kit or 3200c14 kit, enable docp/xmp, and leave it there. Splurging or spending tons of time tuning just isn't worth it - unless that's something you are specifically interested in, of course. You do you. But don't stretch your time or money for this imagining it's going to make a big difference.
I spent an hour or two getting my Ryzen 5 Pro 4650G to run my (Micron rev. E) 3200c16 kit at 3800c16, and there's a very noticeable uptick in gaming performance there. But the overall system performance is the same. I also had a pretty easy time, just plugged in some numbers from dram calc and spent a tiny bit of time tuning some voltages for stability, and it's been 100% stable since. I was very lucky. Most RAM OC experiences are the complete opposite, with a lot of fine tuning and tweaking and overall a major time expenditure for small gains in the end.
AMD and Intel CPUs both gain overall performance going from, say, 3200c16 to 3600c16, or especially from something stock like 2133 or 2400 and to those speeds. But is it really noticeable in the real world unless you're actively looking for it? That's debatable. On my main system (5800X) I've just enabled DOCP (3200C14) and left it there. I have a vague idea of pushing it higher at some point as my RAM should handle it (Samsung B-die), but initial tests showed that even 3600 with dram calc numbers wasn't stable, and I wanted to actually use my system (!) rather than spend hours and hours tweaking RAM settings and testing stability.
My two cents: unless you have a workload you know benefits from the fastest ram speed possible, get an affordable 3600C16 kit or 3200c14 kit, enable docp/xmp, and leave it there. Splurging or spending tons of time tuning just isn't worth it - unless that's something you are specifically interested in, of course. You do you. But don't stretch your time or money for this imagining it's going to make a big difference.
@laughingman ,@daddelbud ,@Valantar thanks again for the advice. I've gone for 2 X 16GB G.Skill TridentZ 3200 Mhz CL14.
Now all I need to work out is which case and how many fans.
Now all I need to work out is which case and how many fans.
From what I've been able to tell, the only major gain is for iGPU performance. I don't have any hard benchmark numbers available, but I saw significant 3DMark increases going from 1900iGPU/3200C16RAM to 2100iGPU/3600c16RAM. As I said, overall system performance was perceptibly unchanged - but then the system didn't get much use before the OC. I don't think I ran any cpu benchmarks at the time, but I'll take a look tomorrow when I'm sober
Thinking back, I'm reasonably sure I ran Cinebench once or twice during this, but unfortunately I don't have any saved scores or screenshots. I have my 3DMark scores from running through this though. I focused on Night Raid as it's a well suited workoad for a modern iGPU.
| Score | 15 290 | 16 369 | 17 452 |
| iGPU clock | 1900 | 1900 | 2100 |
| Memory/IF clock | 3200/1600 | 3600/1800 | 3800/1900 |
| Graphics score | 16 649 | 18 028 | 19 560 |
| CPU score | 10 457 | 10 759 | 10 837 |
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a few things i’ve come across with a recent meshlicious build: in standby the blue led beneath the button at the top blinks. maybe some tape would cover the underside to stop this beaming through the panels. the drive bracket won’t fit with a full length gpu installed on the riser. there’s not much wiggle room for the tubes no matter whether they’re mounted top or bottom on an aio. the nzxt h1 looks like it has a better thought out cooling bracket, but it’s expensive and not available without both the aio and power supply.
... the power button blinks when in sleep on literally every desktop PC. That's how that works: off = off, on = on, sleep = blinking. Some motherboards have options to disable the power LED in BIOS, but beyond that, just don't connect the cable to the motherboard if it bothers you - that's far easier than taping over an LED. As for the Meshlicious, it's pretty clearly advertised that the drive bracket is only for builds with short top-mounted GPUs. I mean, look at the size of the case! Most current generation GPUs fill the entire GPU side of the case. The H1 has a more integrated cooler thanks to it being bundled with the case, but you're then also limited to half the radiator area of the Meshlicious and can't water cool the GPU if you want to. It also has pretty terrible airflow overall, with quite bad GPU temperatures in most reviews. And of course that thing where it might burn your house down (they even tried to pull a bait-and-switch on the "fixed" risers!).
I am still a bit torn between the DA2 v2 and the Meshlicious. Meshlicious does look the better option although tight on the rad, but also has a better footprint on a desk.
I did start looking yesterday night for just something cheap to put everything in for now and wait for the June / July / whenever it gets to Europe really date. I almost bought a Fractal Define Nano S but then realised it is 5mm too short for the Artic 280 radiator.
Is there anything put there that would accommodate the radiator and still be a cost effective 'waiting for my real case' option, or would I be better just sticking it all in a small mATX case whilst the Meshlicious finally ships to Europe?
I did start looking yesterday night for just something cheap to put everything in for now and wait for the June / July / whenever it gets to Europe really date. I almost bought a Fractal Define Nano S but then realised it is 5mm too short for the Artic 280 radiator.
Is there anything put there that would accommodate the radiator and still be a cost effective 'waiting for my real case' option, or would I be better just sticking it all in a small mATX case whilst the Meshlicious finally ships to Europe?
depending on the length of the gpu you use the H200 is another cheap case, i used it as my holdover case till my meshlicious arrived, NR200 is a really good case as well.
Yes NR200 was my other thinking if I can find one cheap on Fleabay that would be a bonus. Graphics card length won't be an issue though as for a while I'm going to rock along on a MSI GeForce GT 1030, which comes in at a whopping 159mm!
I'm more concerned that it might give my PSU some problems as it can command an earth shattering 30W from the system!
If you read the specs on the website it says Front 2x120/2x140 Fans
Below thats the EKWB EK-AIO 280 D-RGB and EVGA 3060ti FTW3, was a tight fit haha
Yeah, that's very dependent on mounting and specific radiator size. With the fans on the inside the rad collides with the front I/O, but outside fans can work with some rads (at the cost of a poor cleaning experience). YMMV.If you read the specs on the website it says Front 2x120/2x140 Fans
Below thats the EKWB EK-AIO 280 D-RGB and EVGA 3060ti FTW3, was a tight fit haha
That is tight, the radiator on the Arctic is 4mm longer than your EK. Was there any wiggle room at all?
Wiggle room all depends on the videocard you are using as you can see below it was tight for me
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