Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
- Thread starter KSliger
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Gotcha, I'd still be interested to see what happens if you place the 2 noctua's external to the case, like literally sitting on top, to see if its a heat build up problem, or if you're just not getting enough pressure through fins and all of the bottom air is just taking the path of least resistance around the heatsink.
Got the Pallas and Morpheus 2 in! Gonna take some more measurements, all of these will be brought together in the eventual build/benchmark/comparison post once I get my SM560.
The Pallas and Pallas RGB come in the same packaging, which was a bit confusing at first glance. Since the incredibly thin fan is held on with clips, there is no shrouding on this heatsink at all, and they come separately in the packaging, so no disassembly required! The fin stack is mostly 22mm thick, with the central portion of it thickening up to 31mm. There is a 9mm gap between the mounting point and the thicker portion of the fin stack, with a 20mm air gap over the rest of the fins.
Total weight: 488g
Heatsink only weight: 401g
130x120x13mm fan (mounting holes are 120x120mm): 87g
Now for the BIG BOI, the Raijintek Morpheus II Core. This thing looks incredible. It's a bit difficult to measure the air gap on this cooler, but it appears like there will be 20mm between the GPU contact point (since there is no heatspreader on GPUs) to the fin stack, that 20mm is necessary to put heatsinks on all the VRMs, VRAM chips, and other high-temp components. There aren't any screws or fan brackets with this one, but it still comes in at a healthy 499g for just the heatsink. Dummy thicc indeed.
The Pallas and Pallas RGB come in the same packaging, which was a bit confusing at first glance. Since the incredibly thin fan is held on with clips, there is no shrouding on this heatsink at all, and they come separately in the packaging, so no disassembly required! The fin stack is mostly 22mm thick, with the central portion of it thickening up to 31mm. There is a 9mm gap between the mounting point and the thicker portion of the fin stack, with a 20mm air gap over the rest of the fins.
Total weight: 488g
Heatsink only weight: 401g
130x120x13mm fan (mounting holes are 120x120mm): 87g
Now for the BIG BOI, the Raijintek Morpheus II Core. This thing looks incredible. It's a bit difficult to measure the air gap on this cooler, but it appears like there will be 20mm between the GPU contact point (since there is no heatspreader on GPUs) to the fin stack, that 20mm is necessary to put heatsinks on all the VRMs, VRAM chips, and other high-temp components. There aren't any screws or fan brackets with this one, but it still comes in at a healthy 499g for just the heatsink. Dummy thicc indeed.
Please try and block up this area:
That is letting air flow right around the GPU. Cables do a good job stopping air on the other end.
I would also check how much gap you have between back of the GPU and the motherboard. Could plug that up with poron foam strips or something.
What is the model number on those arctic fans? Will look up the spec.
Have you tried a small undervolt? Could probably knock 5C off with undervolt and not notice the performance hit in games.
No room for slim fans up top, have to make the air from bottom count.
560 might be delayed a day, our shipping boxes are tearing open at the corners - need to get replacements tomorrow.
Fans are these: Real nice for the money. I wanted to test them first because the color matches haha.
https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/bionix-p120.html
Instead of undervolting I just did a 70%power target and max was 82c with 1000 rpm fan speed.
I am still just in the testing phase. I could probably remove the reinforcement board on the Ti and get some better air flow as it does block some fins but i'll try that as a last resort as that requires complete removal of the cooler.
Truth be told, I always have massive cases that air is not a problem. Not sure how to go about undervolting a Ti. I know how to do it in Afterburner just not sure what the numbers mean on that etc.
https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/bionix-p120.html
Instead of undervolting I just did a 70%power target and max was 82c with 1000 rpm fan speed.
I am still just in the testing phase. I could probably remove the reinforcement board on the Ti and get some better air flow as it does block some fins but i'll try that as a last resort as that requires complete removal of the cooler.
Truth be told, I always have massive cases that air is not a problem. Not sure how to go about undervolting a Ti. I know how to do it in Afterburner just not sure what the numbers mean on that etc.
undervolting means to have the card run on less than the factory specified voltage level for a given clock rate. the voltage curve set by manufacturers in fairly conservative (i.e. overvolts) to ensure stability as there will be differences from chip to chip. e.g., by default your card runs at 1650MHz while being supplied 1.05V. temperature also plays a role in how high a card boosts, but we can ignore that for now. your individual chip may well be stable at 1650MHz with only 0.98V/0.95V/0.925V, and these lower voltages will significantly reduce the heat produced.
you can think of it as an overclock of the default voltage curve. the normal curve specifies X1 volts for Y1 clock rate, X2 volts for Y2 clock rate where X2 > X1/Y2 > Y1, etc. you change it so that at X1 volts corresponds to Y2 clock rate (i.e. faster core speed for a given voltage) but then set a ceiling on the maximum voltage to wherever you want. I found this thread helpful when I first was learning about the process (it hasn't changed since pascal). once you figure it out, it's a pretty painless way to decrease temperatures and/or noise without sacrificing meaningful performance.
Just busted open the Sliger box, giddy with excitement. Here are some quick snaps, and first reaction:
Plastic still on to protect the acrylic windows during the build. Paper towel for scale. This case is smaller than what I had in mind, even though I have the A4-SFX and know what a sub-10L case looks like.
The advantage of using steel panels over aluminum... super thin frames. Reminds me of the thinner bezels on modern laptops screens. edit: side panels are aluminum, but the bottom grill has to be steel for the super thin parts.
More to come
Plastic still on to protect the acrylic windows during the build. Paper towel for scale. This case is smaller than what I had in mind, even though I have the A4-SFX and know what a sub-10L case looks like.
The advantage of using steel panels over aluminum... super thin frames. Reminds me of the thinner bezels on modern laptops screens. edit: side panels are aluminum, but the bottom grill has to be steel for the super thin parts.
More to come
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On the 570/580 the edge of the windows is hidden by the top and front panels since they're flat. Once I have the internal design complete I'll take a poll on it - show edge vs no show.
Did another test with Metro. This time with 70percent power target and max fan speed. gpu maxed at 72c that time. Thanks @teodoro for the explanation. I know what it does, just not the exact way to go about it. I'll have a look at that link.
@wsgroves which CPU cooler did you end up going with? Have you tried to UV the 2080tTi ? Temps are pretty close to reasonable considering the flagship GPU. Something like an AIB 1080 with a beefy heat sink would probably work out for instance.
What is your impression on noise levels with your cooling setup?
Nice build!
What is your impression on noise levels with your cooling setup?
Nice build!
@KSliger for the SM580, is it possible to include circular ventilation holes in the rear panel to also double as mounting points for external res? additionally, is the front panel design for the SM580 finalised? imho the flat front panel looks rather unappealing and bland. it would be great to see something similar like the Cerberus' front panel instead
@KSliger Aaaaand another cooler- https://www.alternate.de/Cryorig/C7G-CPU-Kühler/html/product/1507496
Graphene-coated C7G, could explain why there is no more stock of the regular Cryorig C7/C7 CU... 125W TDP up from 115W of the CU and 100W of the C7. U.S. availability I hope?
Graphene-coated C7G, could explain why there is no more stock of the regular Cryorig C7/C7 CU... 125W TDP up from 115W of the CU and 100W of the C7. U.S. availability I hope?
Using the Scythe Big Shuriken 3. It just fits on the Strix B450 i gaming with the fins vertical. Takes a few seconds to get the board in but it fits.
I have not tried to UV the Ti yet. Have not really had much time to play with anything yet. We had a house fire a few months ago so just getting back into our place finally but time is still hard to find sadly.
I cant say too much about the Strix Ti. In its stock form, its about as good as it gets for the series. Top 3 for sure.
I have a 2070 as well but I don't see the point in it. May as well just run the Ti a little slower if need be. 2070 does not even get close to playable Raytracing for me in Metro.
As far as noise goes, it is all tied to the fans on the bottom basically. I don't have a big opinion either way yet.
It is quieter in the sense that there is no big cooler with 3 fans trying to keep a Ti cool but you hear the fans
when stressed because you have to tun them high speed to cool that much tdp.
At the desktop, I don't hear the fans on the normal AISuite setting. Turbo setting is silent as well. Max I can't hear with closed back headphones.
I will probably test the Noctura NF-A12-25's at some point, although I don't see them making a huge difference over the Arctic fans.
Once I get more time and a few new cables, I will clean the build up more and try to increase airflow.
Thanks!
Found this review of the Arctic fans. Very impressive when you see the price between them and the Noctura.
https://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/arctic_bionix_p120_review,1.html
Edit, Also @KSliger I already had to remove the bottom grills that are under the fans. No matter what, they would touch some part of the fan. I think in revision 2, they need to be down just a touch further. Like 1mm or something. They are very thin and frail and I couldnt get them to not touch the fan at higher speeds.
Edit 2. Since I have a 560 coming whenever they ship, I may throw the Ti fans back on and set them to max, say 20%, and see how it does. Completely kills my plan of wanting a case fan only setup but if it helps the temps and is still quiet (20% would be silent on Strix), may be worth it.
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Yes to mounts on the upper rear face for external reservoir or pump, also will come with mount points for a D5 pump or pump/res inside the case above the GPU in the front.
Keeping the flat front. Think with the window and the edge cuts it will not look too bad with the boring flat front at these proportions.
I mainly don't want the whole product line to look identical to Cerberus. Trying to mix it up as a statement of that we're capable of more than one look.
I would look at a vertical overview of the board, and compare the location of mounting points to the ASUS board@wsgroves used to ensure fit.
The bottom vent pattern cutouts are touching your fans? Not clear on this.
Do you have calipers to measure how thick your fans are? There's 28mm of space in bottom for the fans, shouldn't be hitting unless the fans are really thick, or maybe out of square?
In my haste to install the fans, may be out of square. Never noticed there were patterns for fans when I installed but yes, hit the fan blades. The pix I posted are where the fans are at. If the screw mounts line up, I assume they are in the correct spot.
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Mine just arrived today too!!
Anybody have a coupon for demcifilter? I just want their SM550 bottom $10 filter and they want $14 on top of that to ship a small flat filter....?
They're in South Africa so unfortunately that is their price. In the future we will probably buy the filters in bulk to ship them out from our US location and our EU distributor.
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