Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)

[raulnorry]

Here's how I'm running my SM560 following my partial hardware refresh. Specs first:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (Currently running stock with PB, looking at manually overclocking tonight)
• Cooler: Asetek 545LT w/ Noctua 92x14mm fan
• RAM: 16GB of Hynix E-die (currently 3200 CL16, overclocking to come)
• GPU: Powercolor Red Devil RX 580
• PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum
• Case fan: 1x Noctua NF-A12x25
• SM560 panels are both solid metal, I don't have any vented panels

I've got the pump and fans locked at 90% PWM in the BIOS and I can't hear them at all from about 1.5 feet away. The case is sitting on the front panel, with the radiator and case fans both set to exhaust (basically a top to bottom setup, just inverted 90 degrees). Max temps for Cinebench R20 is ~70C, while a 1 hour run of Prime95 small FFTs levels out at 89.5C about 5 minutes into the run and stays there. VRM temps haven't gotten higher than 50C, but I will see how they behave when I do an all-core OC. Unfortunately the Red Devil RX 580 has a pretty crappy cooler, so it reaches 85C and drops clock speed to roughly 1300MHz in nearly every game, even with the fans turned to 100% which is insanely loud. I can feel the air flowing from the front/top of the case very smoothly, so I know that the fan orientation is working well, and I wanted to give the GPU as much cool air as possible.

 

[tuanster1119]

Here's how I'm running my SM560 following my partial hardware refresh. Specs first:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (Currently running stock with PB, looking at manually overclocking tonight)
• Cooler: Asetek 545LT w/ Noctua 92x14mm fan
• RAM: 16GB of Hynix E-die (currently 3200 CL16, overclocking to come)
• GPU: Powercolor Red Devil RX 580
• PSU: Corsair SF600 Platinum
• Case fan: 1x Noctua NF-A12x25
• SM560 panels are both solid metal, I don't have any vented panels

I've got the pump and fans locked at 90% PWM in the BIOS and I can't hear them at all from about 1.5 feet away. The case is sitting on the front panel, with the radiator and case fans both set to exhaust (basically a top to bottom setup, just inverted 90 degrees). Max temps for Cinebench R20 is ~70C, while a 1 hour run of Prime95 small FFTs levels out at 89.5C about 5 minutes into the run and stays there. VRM temps haven't gotten higher than 50C, but I will see how they behave when I do an all-core OC. Unfortunately the Red Devil RX 580 has a pretty crappy cooler, so it reaches 85C and drops clock speed to roughly 1300MHz in nearly every game, even with the fans turned to 100% which is insanely loud. I can feel the air flowing from the front/top of the case very smoothly, so I know that the fan orientation is working well, and I wanted to give the GPU as much cool air as possible.

Sounds like your GPU is starving for air especially since it isn't a blower-style card and just dumping the warm air into the case. Any thoughts on putting a vented panel on the GPU side? You could test with the panel off as the vented panels are so open that they are comparable to running without a panel on.

 

[wsgroves]

for cooling the 560, bottom exhaust and gpu exhaust, correct? for the 580, im thinking that the top will be exhaust as well. intake from top or bottom will interfere with the gpu fans, so maybe intake on the gpu and exhaust top and bottom? cant wait to test shit out

also, vented panels ftw!

If you have vented panels on the 560, the bottom fans as exhaust seems to work best. Multiple owners have confirmed this with air coolers. Radiator is probably different.
@Megaman0025 this one.

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I run my 560 with fans as exhaust. gpu wont go over 60 usually.

 

[raulnorry]

Sounds like your GPU is starving for air especially since it isn't a blower-style card and just dumping the warm air into the case. Any thoughts on putting a vented panel on the GPU side? You could test with the panel off as the vented panels are so open that they are comparable to running without a panel on.

I'll try it with the panel off tonight. I do want to get a vented panel since I plan on getting a 3 slot card when the RX 5800 or 5900 cards come out, but I'm also waiting for the SM560 handle kit to come out so I'm not paying shipping multiple times.

 

[Blizzbray]

Im thinking of rocking my h110i with the fans up top acting as a spacer so it fits. They will be pulling air in and forcing it through the rad. Then a vented panel on the gpu side (2070 xc ultra gaming), a windowed/solid panel on the MB side, then an exhaust fan out the bottom (Might have to use one of those 3.5" hdd adaptors instead of 2 bottom exhaust fans. CPU will be an i7-8700k. I think that should work out pretty good Any one see any issues there?

 

[Bioforce]

So after weeks of tinkering with my SM560, I think I've gotten it to a state that I'm happy with. Contrary to what has been discussed in this thread, I actually get better temps when I have my fans running as intake. I'm using a 645LT with vented panels. I was seeing temps in the 70-75 range on my CPU, a 3700x, while gaming with my fans set as exhaust. I flipped both of my fans to intake and now I'm seeing load temps in the 60's. I do not recall if the previous findings were with air coolers but running the fans as intake may be a better potion for 645LT users.

Those results makes sense. The exhaust configuration is best for air coolers since the exhaust fans help pull fresh air in through the side vents and into the cpu cooler. Intake, on the other hand, would be somewhat fighting against the CPU cooler's airflow. However, with an AIO intake will always give you the best temperatures since you are pulling cool air from outside the case into the radiator. Exhaust on the other hand pulls hot air from inside the case through.

 

[Navy8or]

@KSliger

I've asked this before but didn't get a response. I know you're busy, but hopefully you can get back to me. With the 570 you state that 240 rads need to be 130mm max width to fit. From the pictures I'm seeing it looks like there may still be a bit of room between the rad and the side of the frame. I'm assuming the frame structure is what limits the width. That being said, if you were to set up a "pull" system where the fans are attached to the case and the radiator hangs underneath it, would this clear up any more room for a slightly wider radiator? The only reason I ask is because I'm eyeing up the Hardware Labs radiators for a custom loop which are 133mm. Their cooling capacity is SIGNIFICANTLY higher from what I can tell to the point where if the 240 just won't fit I may even grab a 184 or multiple 92's becaue they perform better than other companies' 240's. I get my case on Monday, so I can probably measure then, but if you had the time to get back to me I could get my loop going even sooner. Thanks for everything you've been doing!

 

[thoughtfix]

With shipping time coming, let's share the specs of what we have intended to go in there. I have an SM570 on the way.

This is mine, plus EK waterblocks for the CPU and GPU blocks, plus other brands of pump, reservoirs, radiators, fans, UV reactive green liquid depending on what will fit. Once I get all the components placed, I'll order UV reactive cables and UV LED strips from Cablemod. I am buying some magnetic receptive tape to use to help place fan filters and the LED strips.

edit: After reading the reviews of that particular tape, I will be looking for a different option.

 

[wsgroves]

@thoughtfix What made you want to do a entire custom loop for your setup? I am just curious.
Make sure you share some pic please when you finish. Anxious to see it.

 

[NHarmonia]

Quick question: The Corsair H100i Platinum RGB would fit in the SM570 right? I got a nice deal on them compared to the Kraken X52s at Microcenter

Also I've never dealt with RGB fans before? Do I have to buy those Node thingies for Corsair?

Got all the parts for my build now! Just gotta wait for the case. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fvP9sZ

 

[thoughtfix]

@thoughtfix What made you want to do a entire custom loop for your setup? I am just curious.
Make sure you share some pic please when you finish. Anxious to see it.

It will be my second custom loop (well, third if you count watercooling a lunch box PC that I never finished because Fallout 76 disappointed me) and I like the challenge of both liquid cooling and SFF. The purpose of this machine is to power the Valve Index in my living room and it's in a suffocating but too-large Enthoo Evolv ITX with two AIOs in it now. I mentioned before but I will be going with radiators on the top and bottom of the 570 with no fans on the bottom but fans on the top. If I 3D print air seals along the open parts of the case, it will give me much more performance than a single 240mm rad but not quite the performance of a single double-thick radiator. Absolutely expect pictures along the way. I'll probably start a new thread to post the journey.

 

[wsgroves]

Nice. I get motion sick on certain things so I have not jumped on the vr stuff yet as I know they had a lot off issues with that in relation to fov in the past. I am anxious to see what the future holds for the technology.
I remember you saying about the radiators now that you mentioned it.

 

[thoughtfix]

Got all the parts for my build now! Just gotta wait for the case. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fvP9sZ

Bad news: "The RGB functionality of ML120 PRO RGB requires an RGB lighting hub and Lighting Node PRO." I do like your specs though! Should be a lovely system.

 

[FourOhFour]

The h100i RGB Platinum can drive the two included RGB fans itself; I think you only need the hub/node if you want more fans.

 

[thoughtfix]

The h100i RGB Platinum can drive the two included RGB fans itself; I think you only need the hub/node if you want more fans.

The pcpartpicker that @wsgroves posted had two standalone ML120 RGB fans. The three-pack of fans does include a controller if there's still an option to return the two standalone fans. Or you can do what I did with my Enthoo: Just get some Phanteks Halos RGB frames and wire them to the Asus Aura (or in your case Gigabyte RGB Fusion) header on the motherboard with the right Phanteks adapter. They add a few mm of thickness to the fans, though, so check your measurements first. Also be careful if you're buying the digitally addressable version of the Halos or the plain RGB Halos to match your motherboard's header.

 

[Rmorrison]

Yes, unless you are running a particularly hot CPU with a lower-end HSF, where a few degrees temp difference *might* be an issue. Ideally, you don't want to put yourself in that situation to begin with, though, and that's more of a concern in smaller cases with less ventilation.

You can certainly run the opposite setup of top to bottom - and there's some argument to be made for alternate configs with exhausting both out of top and bottom or intake both top and bottom, but mainly that's for negative versus positive pressure layouts, which I think people make more of a big deal about than their effects in reality warrant (most cases are not closed off or filtered enough to make a significant difference), but I generally think maximizing a straight path in and out of the system is best, particularly as it can also help cool VRMs, RAM, and other components.

If you have enough good fans in your system, you really don't have to worry too much regardless of what you go with. You can test different configs if needed and you'll likely be good with any layout, the key is just airflow.

Ill be running 2 noctua 140's at the bottom and on the top radiator.

If you have vented panels on the 560, the bottom fans as exhaust seems to work best. Multiple owners have confirmed this with air coolers. Radiator is probably different.

Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti RoG Strix review

We had a couple of hours hands-on time with the GeForce RTX 2080 Ti RoG Strix, this article is 80% of the final review, just to give you some photos and benchmarks close to RTX launch day....

www.guru3d.com

I run my 560 with fans as exhaust. gpu wont go over 60 usually.

ill be using the 580 so i will be testing different configs. using the 560 as a guide for airflow should lead me in the right direction.

 

[NHarmonia]

Bad news: "The RGB functionality of ML120 PRO RGB requires an RGB lighting hub and Lighting Node PRO." I do like your specs though! Should be a lovely system.

Thanks! This will be my first build ever that can properly run modern games, so I am excited!

The pcpartpicker that @wsgroves posted had two standalone ML120 RGB fans. The three-pack of fans does include a controller if there's still an option to return the two standalone fans. Or you can do what I did with my Enthoo: Just get some Phanteks Halos RGB frames and wire them to the Asus Aura (or in your case Gigabyte RGB Fusion) header on the motherboard with the right Phanteks adapter. They add a few mm of thickness to the fans, though, so check your measurements first. Also be careful if you're buying the digitally addressable version of the Halos or the plain RGB Halos to match your motherboard's header.

Thanks a lot! The 2 fans are the only thing I haven't bought yet haha

Do you think it'd be a bad idea if I have different fans on the radiator and the bottom?
I'm thinking of running the radiator fans as intake and bottom as exhaust.
What fans would you suggest? Hopefully something that doesn't require a $60 controller haha

If not, I could return the H100i and get a Kraken and get RGB stuff, but that'd end up being a lot more expensive...

 

[thoughtfix]

Do you think it'd be a bad idea if I have different fans on the radiator and the bottom?

Nah - if the fan gets decent airflow, helps the static pressure flow air through the radiator, and looks how you want it to look - go ahead and mix brands. The only real advantage you have with custom RGB kits to match the Corsair is that you'll only have ONE piece of software (Corsair iQUE I think?) running your lights. I'd stay away from Thermaltake (despite using exclusively TT fans in my main rig) because their fans can ONLY be used with their controllers and don't even plug into normal motherboards. You can even skip the RGB in the lower fans if you want to save a lot of money. When you are shopping, make sure you get the right size fans and look for compatibility with either Corsair (to match your AIO) or your motherboard's RGB headers. Cheaper fans like to bundle in their own controller that doesn't use software or (worse yet) have no controller and just give you the unicorn puke RGB spiral and nothing else. People go NUTS for fans, so check youtube for reviews of any that spark your interest.

I haven't been AIO shopping in some time, so I'll let others answer the question on the best bang for your buck while still trying to maintain a good RGB look and control.

 

[JaPeMo]

Sure, the car manufacturer might be to blame in that scenario and certainly they are responsible for factory defects, but this why advice like "don't buy the first year of a new model or redesign" exists, and why you buy Toyota and not Pagani* if reliability and availability are your concern. Both things can be true: business should be responsible for accurately conveying the features and limitations of the product, but the consumer should also have realistic expectations of the product, especially where low-run and new products are concerned.

That said, it's an unfortunate issue, but I'm glad you are resolving it.

* en realidad, no tengo idea de cómo Pagani es confiable en la práctica (y eso es parte de mi punto, en realidad, que incluso los modelos menos populares de Toyota son cantidades bastante conocidas en comparación con un fabricante de autos boutique, aunque incluso Toyota tiene que emitir muchos retiros de mercado ), Pero se entiende la idea

Oh yeah ?

 

[blakedabarbarian]

Interesting find. When using the PSU cable extension included with the SM560, I get some serious coil whine on my Strix 2080 ti, but when I go direct from the wall to my PSU this seems to lessen significantly....any thoughts guys??