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Sleeving & Crimping Thread
- Thread starter Phuncz
- Start date
-5VDC was in initial versions of the specification. Same spot, but a 20 pin connector.
As I mentioned, it supplied ISA slots, which at the time, usually took up a few slots, (a typical board setup at the time would be an AGP, 4 PCI and 3 ISA). It was later deleted because it wasn't needed any more.
If it's actually a populated pin on the PSU, then they are using an out of date specification, but it shouldn't harm anything if removed since it's not connected to anything anymore anyways.
As I mentioned, it supplied ISA slots, which at the time, usually took up a few slots, (a typical board setup at the time would be an AGP, 4 PCI and 3 ISA). It was later deleted because it wasn't needed any more.
If it's actually a populated pin on the PSU, then they are using an out of date specification, but it shouldn't harm anything if removed since it's not connected to anything anymore anyways.
I think the reason the HDPLEX has +12V in that location is to get one more wire to connect, so your overall wire cross-section gets bigger. With HDPLEXs H5 case, this is a sensible consideration, as the TDP of GPUs it can cool most often lead to using a bus-powered GPU. Having a bit of headroom on the cabling isn't bad at all. I'm pretty sure that cable is not connected to the NC pin 20 on the mainboard-side connector, but to either pin 10 or pin 11. @hdplex, is that correct?
As far as tools go, anyone have any they recommend? I'm not talking brands, I'm talking specific tools.
I know I need a crimping and a wirestripper at the very least. Right?
This is a project I'm going to be taking on as well come build time.
I know I need a crimping and a wirestripper at the very least. Right?
This is a project I'm going to be taking on as well come build time.
Don't forget the molex pin extractor. I know some people love their safety pin kludges, but having the actual proper tool is useful.
You should also get a heat gun for the heatshrink; again, a lighter will do in a pinch, but it's worth it to do it right.
You should also get a heat gun for the heatshrink; again, a lighter will do in a pinch, but it's worth it to do it right.
Luckily I have a heatgun already (needed it to debadge my old car).
So a crimping tool, wire-stripper, and molex pin extractor.
Depending on how much sleeving you plan to do, an automatic wire stripper can save you a lot of pain. I think this is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B8WB5U/?tag=theminutiae-20
Ah yes, do you wanna buy Nils' stuff of Lutro0's stuff?
https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/tools/
https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/tools/
You can do the same with the sleeving: cut them at an angle and join them in the same wire-Y, use heatshrink.This is really hard to achieve when you want to sleeve them as well
My paltry contributions to this thread.
1. Buy the good stuff, even if you infrequently sleeve...or buy premade.
2. See the awesome auto-strippers in action.
1. Buy the good stuff, even if you infrequently sleeve...or buy premade.
2. See the awesome auto-strippers in action.
I can now verify that at least on the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX the 24-pin cable is missing that pin. I assume the 250W is the same so there shouldn't be any issues.
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