Discussion selfmade powerbrick for picoPSU?

[lucagiolu]

I'm planning to power my Intertech 160W pico-psu by using a brick like this one:

If I informed myself correctly, I will need wires with 2,0mm² diameter and a 4-Pin DIN connector (male and female) to transfer the power safely.
Would this be possible and would you recommend it? I can totally see this turning out bad (especially when done incorrectly) so I'm only asking for your honest opinion.
I also thought about throwing away the whole idea and just getting the picoPSU 160XT + Brick set...

Mod edit: helping with image - I play safe & manually uploaded it to imgur.

 

[SFFMunkee]

Picture not working for me. Got some details on model / specs?

What hardware are you powering with it?

 

[SFFMunkee]

Working from the URL - it looks like you've got a 12V LED power supply (DS-200-12). I'd avoid these generally as they often have really crap performance/specs.

Best bet is a Meanwell AC-DC supply or at least a well-known brick with established specifications. You'll find plenty of examples by searching 'brickless' in the forum

 

[lucagiolu]

@SFFMunkee , very sorry. When I created the post, the picture worked normally. Thanks for the advice, I'll look into that...

 

[lucagiolu]

I will be powering a Ryzen 3950X (probably underclock), the mainboard, RAM, a M.2 SSD and the cooler obviously. It's a headless Linux server...
What about the required connector? Can you give me some info on that? I saw many bricks with a 2,5 x 5,5 connector but I thought those can't handle such high power?

 

[SFFMunkee]

I will be powering a Ryzen 3950X (probably underclock), the mainboard, RAM, a M.2 SSD and the cooler obviously. It's a headless Linux server...
What about the required connector? Can you give me some info on that? I saw many bricks with a 2,5 x 5,5 connector but I thought those can't handle such high power?

You can easily run a good amount of power through a barrel jack but ONLY if it's higher voltage, most you'll see that are >100W will be 19V or higher. Otherwise the current required will be far too much to safely push through a barrel connector. If you're stuck on 12V for some reason then yes I would absolutely avoid a barrel jack.

What's the enclosure like?
Does it need to be portable?
Does it need to be tamper/kid/pet resistant?
Is there any reason it needs to have a separate AC/DC and DC-ATX?

 

[lucagiolu]

You can easily run a good amount of power through a barrel jack but ONLY if it's higher voltage, most you'll see that are >100W will be 19V or higher. Otherwise the current required will be far too much to safely push through a barrel connector. If you're stuck on 12V for some reason then yes I would absolutely avoid a barrel jack.

What's the enclosure like?
Does it need to be portable?
Does it need to be tamper/kid/pet resistant?
Is there any reason it needs to have a separate AC/DC and DC-ATX?

It is in fact 12V, so I guess I have to go for the 4-Pin DIN connector...
It doesn't need to be portable. It has to be external/seperate because the case doesn't have space for an internal solution.
It doesn't specifically need to be tamper resistant but when I accidently touch the brick-thingy I prefer not to get electrocuted...

 

[DwarfLord]

I will be powering a Ryzen 3950X (probably underclock), the mainboard, RAM, a M.2 SSD and the cooler obviously. It's a headless Linux server...
What about the required connector? Can you give me some info on that? I saw many bricks with a 2,5 x 5,5 connector but I thought those can't handle such high power?

Be careful, the 160xt delivers only 8A, so 96W, on the 12V line !
You WILL have to underclock/undervolt the 3950X a LOT to comply to that, as it can consume 140W+ alone !
Keep some margin for the motherboard and the rest, the best course of action would be to use it in eco mode I guess, so with a TDP of 65W (= PPT 88W, the real consumption), if it's possible.

 

[lucagiolu]

Be careful, the 160xt delivers only 8A, so 96W, on the 12V line !
You WILL have to underclock/undevolt the 3950X a LOT to comply to that, as it can consume 140W+ alone !
Keep some margin for the motherboard and the rest, the best course of action would be to use it in eco mode I guess, so with a TDP of 65W (= PPT 88W, the real consumption), if it's possible.

Well I will have to underclock it anyways because of insufficant cooling. But lets say I wont, what kind of PSU would I need? Is there even such a powerful pico psu?

 

[SFFMunkee]

Well I will have to underclock it anyways because of insufficant cooling. But lets say I wont, what kind of PSU would I need? Is there even such a powerful pico psu?

I think Gurywha/G-uniq is back on TaoBao and he does 12V specific 300-400W units. @REVOCCASES do you happen to have a link or search term?
If you're definitely going external, buy a sealed brick designed for that, I would STRONGLY recommend against going DIY.

 

[REVOCCASES]

I think Gurywha/G-uniq is back on TaoBao and he does 12V specific 300-400W units. @REVOCCASES do you happen to have a link or search term?
If you're definitely going external, buy a sealed brick designed for that, I would STRONGLY recommend against going DIY.

I still have one 12V and one 19V G-Unique ATX plug-in spare, also a tiny 230W 19V GaN brick... if someone is interested...

 

[DwarfLord]

Well I will have to underclock it anyways because of insufficant cooling. But lets say I wont, what kind of PSU would I need? Is there even such a powerful pico psu?

What cooling are you going to use ?

 

[lucagiolu]

What cooling are you going to use ?

Sorry for the late response, I didn't look into this post for a long time lol
I intend to use my Thermalright AXP-90 X36 and mostly got around 80-85°C while running cinebench for quite a while...
Considering my system won't be running under constant heavy loads and that I will underclock it anyways, this is completly fine for me.