S4M-C #524 - the humble build

Discussion in 'Build Logs' started by Choidebu, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    Hi all,

    So I missed out on @Josh | NFC 's youtube sale last november but he was kind enough to let me buy what was supposed to be his personal one.

    I have been planning this build since 4 months ago - my first desktop pc after maybe a decade with 1 laptop and 1 netbook. When I was looking for a case I stumbled on linus's video and went straight to hunt the elusive S4 MINI. I pretty much signed up to this forum because I wanted a MINI ^_^

    While waiting I procured some parts which I was sure the price gonna go up - and I was right - my gpu and ram sticks. I was aiming for an nvme ssd too but wallet wasn't agreeing with me. I'm planning to reuse my netbook's ssd instead.

    So here's the part list:
    CPU
    AMD - Ryzen 5 1600​
    Cooler
    Noctua - NH-L9a (with AM4 bracket)​
    Motherboard
    Asus - ROG STRIX B350-I​
    Memory
    Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000​
    GPU
    Sapphire - Radeon RX 550 2GB​
    PSU
    @Kmpkt 's dynamo mini + HDPLEX 160W AC-DC unit​

    The plan is to go brickless, as my setup shouldn't need more than 140W and hdplex 160w brick is small enough to fit in the S4M-C.

    Of all parts above, I just need the motherboard which is coming next week. So exciting!!

    The PSU came first..


    When the case finally came, it's fitting time!

    [​IMG]
    Reversed the end cap of the unit here, because I don't want the mounting tab to hang looking ugly.
    [​IMG]
    On the other side, I bent the mounting tab 45 deg to make the whole unit fit flush with the notch in the case seen above. The screw cutout in the tab also served to route the input cable.

    So does it fit with my gpu in?
    [​IMG]
    Yes!!! With 3 mm to spare. The card needs to be installed first then the brick slides from the side. I plan to secure the brick with thermal sticky pads to the case wall. And maybe some foam between it and the gpu.

    So I need an inlet now, and don't get me wrong - even S4M now have cutouts for C7/8 inlet, but I wanted a grounded one. C14 is too big, so I went to C5/6, also known as 'cloverleaf' plug.

    Time to get the dremel out ^^b
    Here's the plan:
    [​IMG]
    So S4M-C's inner frame is 2 part and they're held together by 5 screw, 2 of which is in the way of my planned inlet.
    [​IMG]
    Shaved too much, really..
    Here's first part of the inner frame cut halfway:
    [​IMG]
    And the outer part..
    [​IMG]
    After that more trimming and sanding..
    [​IMG]
    This is how it looks with the inlet and cable plugged:
    [​IMG]
    Snug!
    I still need to drill screw holes for it but I don't have 2 mm bit. Gonna have to wait for it - my local hardware store is more expensive than having it shipped from ShenZhen...

    I sure hope my mod doesn't compromise the integrity of the frame, and the inlet holds.

    Next update when I got the motherboard. I don't have any plan yet to paint the case atm, it's just silver bezel and black inner frame. As humble as it gets!

    Thanks for reading so far!
     
  2. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    Reserved - don't even know if I ever need it
     
  3. eutholevonik

    eutholevonik Average Stuffer

    It's refreshing to see an AMD only S4M-C build! :thumb:
     
    Mortis Angelus likes this.
  4. Kmpkt

    Kmpkt Innovation through Miniaturization
    Gold Supporter KMPKT

  5. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    Team red FTW!
     
  6. TheWhiteWolves

    TheWhiteWolves Caliper Novice

    Thats looking really nice, well done
     
  7. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    Bought my motherboard yesterday!



    I was worried that the 24-pin looks too close to the ram slots in the pictures, but the dynamo mini fit nicely with 1 mm to spare.



    The build was working perfectly on open bench but then it tripped my breaker in the case!!

    This is the culprit:



    One of the mains input cable to the hdplex I routed between the mounting tabs has melted. It was a bad idea - its enclosure (and the tabs) got hot and melt the insulation. I grounded the case - so mains meet ground, and *boom* you got a short!

    Thankfully my parts were all fine, after I added some insulation and extra foam, everything is in working order!

    Next, put windows in it and bench!
     
    Acalanata, Biowarejak, Kooki and 2 others like this.
  8. Josh | NFC

    Josh | NFC Not From Concentrate
    NFC Systems Silver Supporter

    Looking great! Thank you for documenting--really appreciate it. :)
     
    JoeyAzul and Biowarejak like this.
  9. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    My pleasure josh!

    So I haven't got the time to properly update and put some pics...
    [​IMG]
    Just one taken with potato cam..

    So prob around new year the drill bits came and I get to work, all fit perfectly, tight enough without a nut just relying on the threaded insert in the inlet. Now there's only power and hdmi cable going to it. Also I got myself a solder and some heatshrink tubing, and shortened the internal power cables going to acdc unit and to dcatx unit. Fixed that melted cable as well.

    And this week I started benching.

    With 3.2 Ghz cpu and 3000 Mhz ram, my Cinebench got 1149 cb (whatever that is).
    Idle temp was 37°C and stress temp (Prime95 blend) was 72° C

    Then I tried OCing via AMD Ryzen Master:
    3.4 Ghz cpu and 2933 Mhz ram (the program wouldn't let me do 3066), 1158 cb (9 poonts improvement).
    Idle was 45°, stress was 85°, had to stop prime95 after 10 mins.

    Not that I mind stock, just want to explore how far NH-L9a puts me in the oc game.
    Then I remembered that I did install the low noise adapter from noctua, and AFAIK it's just a resistor in series with the cable to reduce voltage in the fan, so I took it out and restart.

    Man I didn't know how big a difference it will make!

    At this point I forgo Ryzen Master entirely and go to BIOS directly. My first run was 2.2 Ghz (I thought I was doing 3.4, hex vs decimal problem) and it actually scored 1200 cb! Voltage was cool idle of 34° and 70° stressed.

    So I was happy that I still have 10° headroom, and upped the cpu to 3.5. The thing barely lasts 3 mins in prime95 reaching 85° and I had to stop it. Last thing I dropped 0.05V from cpu voltage - put the cpu to 3.45, et voila, one hour prime95 later, still a steady 72-75.

    Fan noise is audible at 2500 rpm but it doesn't bother me at all. Reckon I'll leave this as is now.

    So, what next?

    I want to install this
    [​IMG]
    Somewhere discreet.

    Per @rokabeka 's suggestion, and after some calculation from my part, I think (I think) I can fit it in one of the skyslots!

    So what we need is a USB 3 header to USB female, angled 90° top facing. That one is easy. Mounting solution, however...

    Well, meh, zip ties and hot glue I guess?

    Now, anyone think front audio out/mic is needed? I kinda always took them for granted - but apparently for this board, one of the front panel audio jack is needed to do 7:1 setup...

    Is it worth to mod the back just to fit 2 audio jack? Or onboard 7:1 would still be shitty anyway that I'm better off with usb dac for that kind of stuff?
     
    Biowarejak, rokabeka and Soul_Est like this.
  10. Biowarejak

    Biowarejak Maker of Awesome
    Silver Supporter

    That cloverleaf is an awesome mod! Everything looks great so far :)
     
  11. Choidebu

    Choidebu Cable-Tie Ninja
    Thread Starter

    Thanks @Biowarejak ! Apparently some called it mickey mouse connector - idk why it's not being used more - the standard rated it up to 2.5A, so 550W for 220V, most PCs should have this instead of C14 imo.
     
    Biowarejak likes this.