Yes, 85 +/- 0.6mm production tolerance.
Check the other picture from top perspective.
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Completed REVOCCASES RCC-BRICKMOD500 / build your own power brick with up to 500W output
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Yes, 85 +/- 0.6mm production tolerance.
Check the other picture from top perspective.
what is an approximate price, in USA dollars, for a version including the MeanWell 200W, with 5.5 X 2.5mm female DC connector ?
Case Kit + MEANWELL 12V 200W + NOCTUA 4010 + DC Cable + Shipping = estimated ca. USD 100,- (excl. tax and import fees)
Important: 5.5 X 2.5mm connectors are only rated 5 to 7.5 Amps. I do not recommend to pull more than 100 to 120W max. with these, else the connector will overheat and melt. As I saw your other post that you are trying to power a small PC and a GPU with one brick, I would advise to split the output cable: one 5.5 X 2.5mm connector for the PC and open wire ends (or whatever you need) for the GPU riser.
Also note that if there should be quality issues with the MEANWELL or NOCTUA, you would have to return it to me on your own cost. Therefore I actually prefer to sell the case kits only and people can buy the power supply locally in their own country. If you´ve build a PC before it shouldn't be an issue to put the BRICKMOD together DIY.
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Im sure that the connectors are only rated 5A, if using a good one 7.5A. But I am not sure what you are planning to do exactly...
Given you buy their set with the EXP GDC Beast eGPU and using it with some 65W graphics card you will still need two power plugs coming from the brick. One goes to the PC and one goes to the GDC Beast to power the GPU.
Here you can see the eGPU they are probably using. It also needs a power source to work. It is not powered through the PC itself.
www.newegg.com
Given you buy their set with the EXP GDC Beast eGPU and using it with some 65W graphics card you will still need two power plugs coming from the brick. One goes to the PC and one goes to the GDC Beast to power the GPU.
Here you can see the eGPU they are probably using. It also needs a power source to work. It is not powered through the PC itself.
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sorry, i mixed up my facts.
a M.2 to PCIe adapter is being used,
& its AC adapter brick is 19Volt 180W [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000292492988.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.be793c00sVYDkK&mp=1 ]
in addition, the custom case for it has a GPU buck booster, converting 19V to 12V.
so i'm still interested in getting a smaller 200- 250W brick from you, but it needs to be 19V, and have 2 separate DC connectors, as you stated above.
is there a 200- 250W power unit which will fit in your case ??
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Which M2 to PCIe adapter are you using?
And why do you need 250W? The mini PC is probably using max 100W and the GPU 65W. Right?
i'm not sure about the M.2 adapter.
i wanted to ask about 200 or 250W, because i ordered more than 1 custom case, so i can do multiple builds; and in my next build, i plan to use a GTX 1650 Super OC.
Well I just don't understand why using a step down converter if the mini pc accepts 12v and the gpu as well. Makes no sense to me.
The meanwell 200 will be good for 125W passive and up to 200w if active cooled. The bigger one (original BRICKMOD1) will be good for up to 300w completely passive cooled.
So you prefer size or silent operation?
PS: Mind to share what kind of custom case you are using?
The meanwell 200 will be good for 125W passive and up to 200w if active cooled. The bigger one (original BRICKMOD1) will be good for up to 300w completely passive cooled.
So you prefer size or silent operation?
PS: Mind to share what kind of custom case you are using?
because i'm not sure yet, if the Mini PC accepts 12V. i'm having it tested.
size is the most important factor. it needs to be around Flex size.
in the original thread for the Mini PC, someone was offering custom cases. i asked about them.
Ok I see. Let me think about it and get some info about the M2 riser used. (Especially which power connector)
But yeah, this board accepts 12V. Has already been tested in that thread. Buck converter won't be necessary from my point of view.
someone had a 8th Gen version, and said it worked with 12V power.
but since then, they now have 9th and 10th Gen versions.
i'm having it tested for 12V compatibility, with one of the new versions.
Just FYI, since there seems quite some interest in a smaller (200W) version I have started to order some parts to build a few prototypes.
there are some choices but quite expensive unfortunately. Or did you find something with similar price like MW but smaller?
Although it's a bit off-topic I thought I might share one of my DIY SFF Audio project here.
I still had one of those 2x200W T-AMP boards from SURE (aka WONDOM) lying around and I thought this would deserve a nice case. So I took one of my BRICKMOD prototype cases, made some custom faceplates and hooked everything up.
The placement of input and output connectors on these boards are not exactly ideal to put it inside a case. So you have to de-solder what is in the way and solder the cables directly to the PCB. Apart from that, the T-AMP series from SURE are really sounding great for the price. Just stay away from their digital "Volume Control Module". Using an traditional passive volume control board, the AMP sounds 100% better.
Here are some pictures of the HIFI-BRICKMOD. Guess I will still change to a clean front faceplate without any slots. Under normal listening conditions the amp barely gets warm.
I still had one of those 2x200W T-AMP boards from SURE (aka WONDOM) lying around and I thought this would deserve a nice case. So I took one of my BRICKMOD prototype cases, made some custom faceplates and hooked everything up.
The placement of input and output connectors on these boards are not exactly ideal to put it inside a case. So you have to de-solder what is in the way and solder the cables directly to the PCB. Apart from that, the T-AMP series from SURE are really sounding great for the price. Just stay away from their digital "Volume Control Module". Using an traditional passive volume control board, the AMP sounds 100% better.
Here are some pictures of the HIFI-BRICKMOD. Guess I will still change to a clean front faceplate without any slots. Under normal listening conditions the amp barely gets warm.
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