planning to build a 12 v system and need advice on pcu

DeniseJoyce

Case Bender
Original poster
Dec 25, 2017
2
1
Hello dear Members iam struggling with a psu choice.?

I am planning to build a SFF hackingtosh to carry with me in my semi truck and run it on 12 v because then i dont need to have it behind my Inverter.. the power feed isnt a issue for me because i run deepcycle batteries and solarpower..

this is the setup i am thinking to go purchase but i cant decide on the psu and would like to have you guys opinion about it.


thank you in advance

Denise
 

smitty2k1

King of Cable Management
Dec 3, 2016
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for 12v with a GTX 1660 your options are really limited to either Meanwell (combine with J-Hack Distro) or G-Unique
 

CottonTexas

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
70
54
Hello dear Members iam struggling with a psu choice.?

I am planning to build a SFF hackingtosh to carry with me in my semi truck and run it on 12 v because then i dont need to have it behind my Inverter.. the power feed isnt a issue for me because i run deepcycle batteries and solarpower..

this is the setup i am thinking to go purchase but i cant decide on the psu and would like to have you guys opinion about it.


thank you in advance

Denise

I'm actually building a 12vDC system myself, so I've done a bit of research here. I specifically chose the i7 T-series (35w) CPU, B360 chipset, & GTX 1650 combo especially for peak efficiency. If you are one that needs to under/over-clock, then the setup I have chosen won't satisfy you, but the options are a bit different depending on your power needs.

I've had to learn a lot about this on my own, so I maybe wrong, but you should look at the PSU as two pieces. The electronics want a nice tidy 12vDC, and the battery and charging system is going to be anywhere from ~10-14vDC, so the first thing to look at is cleaning up the voltage.

Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 is only 200w, and runs @~$60
EDIT: This is an all-in-one solution that will regulate and supply power to the MoBo without the need for an additional regulator or Pico-PSU.

Victron Energy Orion-TR 12/12-18A is still only 220w and goes for ~$116

Once you've cleaned up the power to a nice flat 12vDC, then any Pico-PSU that functions on 12vDC will work. I've got a G-unique, and they seem to have a pretty good rep.



Sadly neither of these can deliver the ~250w that you'll need, but your GPU is a bit power-hungry for a mobile unit. If you were to switch to a T-series i5-8600, I believe you would lose the ability to adjust clock speed - thus the more efficient B360 board becomes relevant, and you could probably get away with the 220w setup. Otherwise, I know it's a bit round-about, but you could get a 20vDC regulator (something LIKE THIS), and run an HDplex 400, but you'll be losing efficiency again in the conversion. I wish I could be more helpful, but I'm kinda' learning as I go, and this is my first 12vDC build (thread HERE). Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this can chime in, and we can both learn something. Cheers, Cotton
 
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Thehack

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Mar 6, 2016
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Hello dear Members iam struggling with a psu choice.?

I am planning to build a SFF hackingtosh to carry with me in my semi truck and run it on 12 v because then i dont need to have it behind my Inverter.. the power feed isnt a issue for me because i run deepcycle batteries and solarpower..

this is the setup i am thinking to go purchase but i cant decide on the psu and would like to have you guys opinion about it.


thank you in advance

Denise
If you have space for it, I recommend an inverter. It'll save you the hassle and allow you to run off other devices that you may want. Your vehicle 12v system is not nominal 12v but varies between 12.6-14 V. You would need a voltage regulator then if you want a dcdc system.
You'll also need to power a monitor.
 

CottonTexas

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
70
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If you have space for it, I recommend an inverter. It'll save you the hassle and allow you to run off other devices that you may want. Your vehicle 12v system is not nominal 12v but varies between 12.6-14 V. You would need a voltage regulator then if you want a dcdc system.
You'll also need to power a monitor.
Sure right, though I was more focused on the impact of efficiency-loss through an inverter on a finite source. As for a monitor, I found the RCA RT1971 is 12vDC "travel-ready" & Energy Star certified for ~$70. Though a serious gaming monitor it is not, it runs ~15w, and doubles as a TV, but I'll get back on topic. @Thehack said it; You're going to need a voltage regulator that can handle the wattage that your PC requires at a voltage that your dc-dc system is rated for.
 
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Thehack

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Sure right, though I was more focused on the impact of efficiency-loss through an inverter on a finite source. As for a monitor, I found the RCA RT1971 is 12vDC "travel-ready" & Energy Star certified for ~$70. Though a serious gaming monitor it is not, it runs ~15w, and doubles as a TV, but I'll get back on topic. @Thehack said it; You're going to need a voltage regulator that can handle the wattage that your PC requires at a voltage that your dc-dc system is rated for.
You don't want to be tied to a monitor based on your power system.

Unless you will deplete your deep cycle batteries and you want 5-10% more game time, using an inverter is a better bet.

It'll be a lot less hassle and offers more freedom in the end.

A gtx 1660/1060 system + a 30w monitor should consume 250w nominal. If you have a good quality inverter already that can support that then you're better off with the inverter.

For efficiency or space constrained setups (cars, small boats) is really where a full dcdc system makes more sense.

But the biggest deal breaker is your monitor. Many of the nice ones use AC in, which powers an internal multi rail ac-dc power supply.
 
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CottonTexas

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
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@Thehack , The RCA RT1971-AC comes with a 12vDC cigarette lighter plug, so I assume that it's internally regulated. Still only 720p (which I believe is to your point), but the OP wasn't really asking about this, so I'll not thread-jack here, and just say that I'm sure that our semi truck driver friend probably has the monitor / TV situation sorted already. Nonetheless, it's good to consider the periphs in general as something like a printer and/or scanner is going to run along the same principle.
 
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DeniseJoyce

Case Bender
Original poster
Dec 25, 2017
2
1
Wow thank you so mu h for this information and help.
I have sufficient 110 v Power on board I have 400 ah deepcycle batteries from Battleborns and solar panels are connected toit when I don't run the engine..
I have a AIMS 3000 pure sine inverter on board so I will look into the 12 v what cotton have explained here but I also see now maybe a to much of a hassle while I have sufficient power onboard that I will go for a 110V power supply.

I am not going to over clock anything . So yes I can go with a non over clock cpu too.

I just want to Ake it a good dual boot system.

Thank so much for the info and I'll update here when I made my choices..
 
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CottonTexas

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
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It's always a compromise when you build for RV / marine use. An inverter will lose up to 20% in efficiency, and high power regulators are expensive. Keep us informed with whatever you decide, and good luck!
 
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Vlad502

Cable-Tie Ninja
Nov 4, 2017
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Mini-Box DCDC-USB-200 is only 200w, and runs @~$60
EDIT: This is an all-in-one solution that will regulate and supply power to the MoBo without the need for an additional regulator or Pico-PSU.
Just to clarify - no need Pico-PSU for Thin-ITX (contain DC-ATX), console (Gaming PC with external PSU) or laptop
For normal ITX board can be used M3-ATX or M4-ATX
 
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CottonTexas

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Oct 14, 2019
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...For normal ITX board can be used M3-ATX or M4-ATX
M3-ATX is only 125W - about half of what @DeniseJoyce needs, but I'd completely forgotten about the M4-ATX which looks like EXACTLY what is needed. Excellent observation there!

At the end you can always go to the laptop route. Today you can have them almost as powerful, yet portable, but no so expensive ...
I've had some decent laptops, but for gaming and work you just can't beat a desktop. Even when the specs are slightly better on the laptop, the desktop just plain performs better. Even with all the periphs plugged in so that it's essentially just a tiny tower, it still feels like a laptop in comparison once you put it to work. If this weren't the case, then wouldn't everybody building portable SFF machines just go buy laptops?
 
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CottonTexas

Average Stuffer
Oct 14, 2019
70
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Why choose L9i (37mm height) and case that can support up to 140mm CPU coolers like Silver Arrow 130 or U9S?
I can't answer for the OP, but I've made my decision based on the road vibration, and the smaller the cooler the less mass that's shaking your MoBo. I was sold on the Scythe Big Shuriken 3 before I considered this, and then changed my mind to the L9x65 before I finally decided to wait for the Scythe Shuriken 2 to come out based on this consideration.

P.S. I still feel quite foolish for having overlooked the M4-ATX PSU. I guess I was so trained towards my own 5L form factor, that I'd forgotten all about it, but hopefully the OP will check back soon and get the answer he was looking for thanks to you @Vlad502.
 
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Vlad502

Cable-Tie Ninja
Nov 4, 2017
167
110
One idea for case and cooling (sorry, if is offtopic):
What about Dash Double DIN Mini ITX case (7" display and question is MacOS touch support) with ITX size (~170mm) GPU
and custom AIO - GPU 120 AIO+CPU pump+tubing (AliExpr link)?

About OP case choice, i guess is because most of time pc will be desktop, so maybe better one SFX (case supports also ATX) PSU and inverter when on the road (recently discover car lighter can deliver up to 100W => car lighter power delivery depends on AWG cable and installed fuse and maybe can output needed power)
 
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