Good news, NewEgg now has a listing for the X570D4I. I've signed up to be notified when its in stock. $459 is their listed price.
do you have a link for the 32GB 3600 sodimms? I am evaluating this board for a new project and trying to optimize the specs.Another - note, there are 32 GB DDR4 3600 SODIMMS starting to come out now. So, if they are stable
Ryzen, the desktop CPU, does support ECC when the board supports it, but does not do error correcting. So you probably won't find ECC logs.4. I have not been able to find any ECC settings or ECC error log yet. Still looking (it is a VERY extensive BIOS)!
Ryzen, the desktop CPU, does support ECC when the board supports it, but does not do error correcting. So you probably won't find ECC logs.
Power Design | 105W |
Think you could fit a Blackridge on that board?
Clear CMOS Pad (CLRMOS1) (see p.6, No. 18) | CLRMOS1 allows you to clear the data in CMOS. To clear CMOS, take out the CMOS battery and short the Clear CMOS Pad |
Would you recommend the X570D4I for a workstation? If not, what (ITX) board would you recommend with similar features?RETRACTION: I really should not have said that the ASRockRack X570D4I-2T motherboard has a suite of overclocking tools.
What it does however have is many confusing (including overclocking) BIOS options but literally, no normal gamer style overclocking aids/tools.
The motherboard is a pain in the arse in the respect that it has no dual BIOS, no CMOS failback, not even a CLR CMOS button, not even a miserly CMOS jumper. What is has instead is a couple of solder pads that you must short (and they are in a crap location), after...wait for it...first removing the CMOS battery.
From the manual:
Clear CMOS Pad
(CLRMOS1)
(see p.6, No. 18)CLRMOS1 allows you to clear
the data in CMOS. To clear
CMOS, take out the CMOS
battery and short the Clear
CMOS Pad
Here is the process:
1. TURN OFF THE POWER (at wall switch).
2. Open case (NZXT H1 in my instance).
3. Remove screws for the water-cooling radiator.
4. Move water pipes and other cables etc aside (inc PCIe x16 extension).
5. Remove 8-way power supply cable (split in 2 x 4) - as this is the only way to remove the CMOS battery from the vertical holder (cramped).
6. Pull out the CMOS battery (even difficult still).
I guess alternatively, you might be able to slide in a very thin piece of stiff plastic to insulate one battery terminal (but that would take some investigation).
7. Maneuver some metal object like a skilled surgeon onto the two pads.
Meanwhile, cross your fingers (not literally) that you are NOT damaging something in that very cramped space.
8. Check you didn't dislodge any tiny SMT resistor or capacitor.
OMG! If you did, I hope you notice it and if you didn't, that it is not supercritical.
9. Minimally reverse what you did above to test.
10 . Switch on and test it now starts (often it does not - as you did not actually clear the CMOS - it can be very difficult).
11. Reboot and fix all your CMOS settings again.
Hope like hell you remember them all and cross your fingers again as there is no ability to save different sets of CMOS configurations. OMG!
12. Plead to some higher power and wish there was a number of overclocking features as you might expect.
HINT: If you are intending to try any sort of overclocking do yourself a big favour BEFORE you setup the motherboard in a case.
I suggest:
1. definitely soldering a CMOS battery cable with an inline connector to an externally mounted battery (obviously remove the one that is in there first); and
2. VERY carefully solder a few wires and a pushbutton switch to those two CMOS clear solder pads also.
The CMOS settings are so extensive they are very confusing. Just enabling the SATA ports on the two OCulink connectors was fraught with issues. It turns out I was overcomplicating it as there are several places to do so. But it appears just doing it in the SATA config is fine and the rest change also.
BTW: I did find the ECC settings in some rather obscure place (more later).
Also, be super careful with those OCUlink connectors as they can bend off the vertical really easily (a lot easier than I was expecting...luckily it still works after gently bending it back. OMG! Another minor heart attack!) Also, particularly in the NZXT H1 case, you need to be careful the water cooler does not bend the cable as you reassemble the case.
The good news is I have now had 5 x NVME SSDs and 8 x SATA drives all working at the same time. Realy just as a test.
Although way late (sorry) - I would recommend its use for a Workstation which is what I am doing.Would you recommend the X570D4I for a workstation? If not, what (ITX) board would you recommend with similar features?
I don’t think Ryzen has a DMI link per se (that’s an Intel standard as far as I am aware). There is a similar southbridge bottleneck if that’s what you mean but the x16 slot on this motherboard is not connected through that and is connected directly to the CPU lanes. Maybe I don’t fully understand what your trying to explain.@RockenRod thanks for sharing your notes it's very helpful. I'm trying to SFF a 5950X and I really love having extra connectivity options that this board uniquely provides but I'm also so torn on whether I'd rather just have a "regular" board!
As I understand it, on this platform all of the extra connectivity that you can achieve beyond onboard M.2 and pcie x16 (bifurcated or otherwise) is going to bottleneck through the DMI PCIe 4.0 x4 link. So, if I was going to go with a "regular" board, I could use a M.2 to (physical) x16 slot adapter on the secondary M.2 and utilize that bandwidth fully for whatever expansion card I'd use there. Since realistically i dont see myself needing anything else, then this may be the way to go for mITX if I can actually give up the 3rd and 4th memory slots.
Another option is mATX where i'd get 3rd and 4th memory slots, but still without any ASUS options. But I'm not looking forward to the process of minimizing case volume for mATX, it's much harder and I need to get on Taobao for that. I'm getting close to burning out on the research...