Log NCase M1 Dual Rad Custom Loop - First SFF Build

Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Hello hello!

New to the forum and to the world of SFF machines. This is my first post, but I've been lurking for a few months throughout the build process of my new rig to get inspired as to how to tackle these compact beasts.

My previous build went through a few iterations over the years in terms of hardware upgrades (originally built in 2014), but kept the same basic loop, all within a Corsair 650D.


However.. at the start of the year I decided it was massively overdue an upgrade (X79 chipset, 4930k, 16GB DDR3 etc), and a friend of mine (Louqe Ghost S1 owner) had been trying to convince me for ages that SFF was the way to go.. so bit the bullet and went for it.

Decided on the NCase M1, mainly due to OptimumTech and his videos documenting his own rig - I loved the look of the case, and whilst not the smallest, is a huge downsize from the 650D, yet allowed for a balls to the wall build if I wanted.

I managed to grab an M1 off of eBay, and whilst there are a few marks on the interior of the case, the exterior is spotless, and it was perfect for my needs.

Started collecting a few parts here and there, which then kinda snowballed into grabbing 99% of what I needed within the space of about a week (or so I thought).
I did have to wait nigh on 2 months for my Iceman reservoir to arrive however, which delayed the build somewhat.
Basic specs are;
Intel Core i7-12700k
ASUS ROG Strix Z690-i
Corsair Dominator DDR5 32GB
EVGA GTX1080 FE (will be upgraded to an RTX3090 very shortly)
Corsair SF750
Kingston Renegade 2TB M.2 SSD
Iceman Rear Mounted Reservoir for DDC
EK-Loop DDC 4.2
Barrow DDC heatsink (EK Quantum Convection would not fit without some machining - I found out the hard way)
EK Velocity2 CPU Block
EK Water Blocks EK-FC1080 GTX + backplate
EK Coolstream PE240 Side Rad
XSPC TX240 Bottom Rad
Phobya inline coolant temp sensor
Corsair Commander Pro
EK Quantum Torque fittings throughout
EK Tube ZMT matte black 16-10
Koolance QD3's (2 x pairs)
All within an NCase M1 6.1



The EK Velocity2 waterblock is a ridiculously tight fit on the Strix Z690-i board - I was using the 28mm extender to lower it into position without dropping it.


Slowly but surely parts made their way into the case (as you will tell, this build was quite heavily infuenced by OptimumTech's own M1 loop-wise - but not identical).


This gave me anxiety, knowing just how little space there was to work in.


Once the main hardware components were installed, I set about working out the loop.




Whilst I'm no stranger to watercooled builds, I'm a complete amateur when it comes to compact builds like these.
I cannot express just how many times the loop changed over the month or so I was building this machine. I swapped fittings, used different angular pieces, more extenders etc etc etc - I was spending a small fortune with OcUK. I also went through 2 and a bit metres of tubing, in my neverending mission to get the run lengths perfect.

I couldn't complete the build until I was 100% happy, as the plan was to nab my 1080 out of the old build, and plumb it into this for the interim until I replaced it with something newer. This meant that the build needed to be 90% complete before I pulled the card - as I didn't really want any downtime, so cracked on getting everything else sorted.

One annnoyance was that the Strix Z690-i does not have a temperature sensor header - as I was hoping to plan my fan curves on the water temperature in the loop (not an OptimumTech tip - promise 😅). I had an Aquaero 6XT in my old build that used to deal with all of that, but unfortunately there was no chance of using it within this build.
Say hello to the Corsair Commander Pro. It was a gamble as to whether it was going to fit or not.. but SFF machines are nothing if the fit isn't snug..


Perfect.


Yeah.. I got lucky 😂, but once wired in, looked like it was supposed to be there.
(I did have to shorten that long old SATA power - but it wasn't too much hassle with a bit of solder and some re-wirable connectors).


This build was never going to be a smooth one, and once I had the loop 90% assembled and good to go, pulled the card out of my old machine, and whacked it in the NCase.
Only to find that it was fouling on both fittings on the lower rad (a certain shorter, newer card wouldn't have had this issue!).

(this extender had a 90 degree fitting on top - I removed it to get the card in - but you get the idea).


So had to get a little creative with the tube runs here. Luckily for me I had a few £00's worth sat around 🙄



A quick leak test later.


And it was done.









Obligatory side by side comparison with the old case.
The difference in size is insane.


And that's a wrap - that is how the build stands to this day. Whilst the PSU cabling could do with a bit of a re-work to make it look more presentable, I'm super happy with how everything else turned out. From the fan controller placement, to the tubing runs and the ability to remove the side rade to get inside - I'm not sure there was anything else I would change.
Eagerly awaiting the time I finally upgrade that 1080 to something worthy of this new build - but alas, I'm in two minds whether or not to get an RTX3090 today, or wait for something from the RTX4xxx series and hope that they kept up their mantra with the short PCB designs.

I hoped you enjoyed my poorly presented journey into building my first small form factor machine - and with any luck, help anyone else that might be struggling with how to route any tubing etc, as this forum was a huge help to me.

Cheers! 😄
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2016
931
931
Great build indeed!
Especially for a first try at SFF, everything is very clean and tightly packed, you did your homework for sure!
Even an air leak test instead of absorbing papers! :thumb:
 
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Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Thanks very much for the comments guys!

Hopefully have some more updates shortly when I manage to grab myself a new GPU - will give me a chance to tidy some of the cabling as well 😎
 
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Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Hey guys!

Quick update on the above.

Finally managed to get my hands on an RTX3090 using the smaller style PCB for a good price, and slapped it in this build to replace my ageing GTX1080FE - I'll let the pictures do the talking!

Before;



New card - Palit RTX3090 GamingPro.


Air cooler off.


Cleaned up and EK block thermal pads applied.




Block & backplate fitted.




The size difference between this 3090 and 1080 is pretty spectacular considering the huge jump in specs!



Card refitted - some of the tubing/fittings were changed/removed at this point as I no longer needed to cater for the larger card, which worked in the loops benefit and removed any potential additional "leak-points".





Quick pressure test, and a refill of the loop - done.


Super happy with how this went. It took a fair amount of research into card/blocks to be able to find one that was a perfect fit for this case (and was smaller than the 1080 - which was an 'OK' fit, but not perfect), but it was definitely worth the effort.

In addition, I've applied a mild-undervolt to the GPU as well, which at full load, has the loop temp sitting under 40°C, and the card itself around the mid 50's.

The build itself still needs a little work ref cabling, but all in good time!

Cheers 😄
 

Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Hey guys,

Another quick(ish) update to this build!

Having finished it some time ago, it became quickly apparent that the standard Corsair PSU cables wouldn't stick around for long. The length of them made fitting everything comfortably within the case somewhat of a chore, and it definitely would have looked better with some more cable management/shorter, custom cabling.

Fast forward to the past few weeks..

Shopped around, and eventually found PSlate Customs who made awesome looking bespoke cabling for SFF builds. I really wasn't sure on a colour scheme other than flat black, but quite liked the look of grey with copper combs from one of the examples - so went ahead pulled the trigger on these.


Fitting was super easy, and I hope you agree, a marked improvement on the former.
Side;




Top;



Back-side;



Easy!



In addition, I quite liked the look of the "anti-vandal" power switches also for sale, a direct replacement for the original NCase switch;

But when trying to fit it, ran into some difficulty, as the switch could do with being~2mm bigger in diameter - other people must have this issue with this switch/case combo even though it is supposedly designed to fit it, but I couldn't find anything online;


I also managed to break the original whilst putting it back together 😅;


Continued below..
 

Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Continued from above..

I couldn't decide on a 24-pin cable to replace the super long Corsair one that came with my PSU. The braided one offered by PSlate to match the rest of the cables that I had fitted wouldn't have played ball too well with my radiator/pipe setup, but the unbraided version looked to be the one I was after.
Order #2 and a few weeks of waiting, and the parts arrived;



First job was to fix that broken power switch seen in the post above.
The replacement from PSlate didn't fit the hole, it's a 12mm switch in a ~14mm hole, so I ordered up some 12mm ID, 1mm thickness matte black nylon washers from eBay, which seemed perfect for the job;





Next up was swapping out the 24-pin.
Removal of the old one released a serious amount of downwards pressure on the bottom rad to side rad pipe, so much so that it would no longer sit on the GPU and just sat upright;




Old vs new;


New fitted;




Huge improvement over the original build using the original Corsair cabling - definitely worth the investment;



Super super happy with the improvement with the new cabling - there's a lot less messing around when you want to get in the case/work on anything, and less excess just looks much better and tidier in my opinion.

Annyoingly I'm not running the little 2 x USB-C riser card (thing) solution for this board (ASUS Z690-i ROG Strix), so the power switch doesn't light up, but again, I much prefer it to the original, and moreso than the broken original that I have been using for the past few weeks!

With that.. I think for now this build is done and dusted. I've got my eyes on a potential Raptor transplant within the next few months, but other than that and ref loop/cabling/layout, I think it's pretty much there!

Cheers! 😄
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2016
931
931
Looks great, good job with the cables replacement!

The replacement from PSlate didn't fit the hole, it's a 12mm switch in a ~14mm hole, so I ordered up some 12mm ID, 1mm thickness matte black nylon washers from eBay, which seemed perfect for the job;
Strange that hole too big, but you came up with a elegant solution with that washer.

Annyoingly I'm not running the little 2 x USB-C riser card (thing) solution for this board (ASUS Z690-i ROG Strix), so the power switch doesn't light up
I had to check, poor choice putting the front panel header on a daughter board IMHO...
 

Nickdot

Efficiency Noob
Original poster
Feb 4, 2022
7
16
Looks great, good job with the cables replacement!


Strange that hole too big, but you came up with a elegant solution with that washer.


I had to check, poor choice putting the front panel header on a daughter board IMHO...

Thanks very much for the comments!

The daughter-board decision is an annoying one, but not the end of the world. There's probably room for me to squeeze it in, which I might attempt over the next few days, as having the light would be quite nice. Happy to say the washers seem to have worked though, and the switch hasn't come loose or pushed through at all (as they are only plastic).

Cheers! 😄
 

mikejmcfarlane

Average Stuffer
Apr 19, 2022
71
54
That really is a tidy compact build, good work figuring out all the cable and pipe routings to get it so elegant!

I'm using the Asus Z790i with the daughterboard. Luckily it fits ok in my case right now without too much pressure on it from AIO pipes or cables. I wonder if the twin USB C ports are "proper" USB C ie could they be extended with USB C extension cables to allow you to put the daughter board somewhere more convenient in your build? Looks like there is maybe now a little space at the end of the GPU? Not sure how it could be mounted to avoid contact with the fans.