Log Metalfish S3 build and some issues

[fabada]

I finished my Metalfish S3 build about a month ago, but have run into some weird issues. Nothing case-/PC-breaking, but still.

Overall very happy with the look and size, and build quality is for the most part good. InSparks' Metalfish S3 build thread was very useful in assembly and parts choice.

Parts list

• Ryzen 5 3600
• MSI GTX 1660 Super Aero ITX
• Gigabyte B450i Aorus Pro Wifi
• Metalfish S3 from AliExpress
• FSP FX500 UG FLEX PSU (also from same AliExpress store)
• Z39 CPU Cooler (also from same AliExpress store) --> eventually upgraded to Noctua NH-L9a-AM4, more on this later
• Noctua 92mm NF-A9x14 fan (to replace stock fan at the top of the case)
• 2x 8GB 3200mhz Kingston HyperX RAM
• Samsung 1TB EVO 970 NVMe M.2

Assembly was pretty easy. I've helped a few friends build their PCs, but never my own, and there was nothing too hard about it. The riser, included with the case, was probably the most fiddly part... along with maybe plugging in the GPU cables in small spaces. Note that the aluminium scratches very easily -- I tried to screw the carry handle on the top of the case but ended up not liking the way it was mounted (you can't install it perfectly in the middle of the case, it has to be offset slightly... most people online choose to put it to one side of the top panel or not include it at all). When I took it away, the handle had scratched the top of the case where the force from the screws had been applied. No big deal, but something to note.



This is with the Z39 installed. I thought it was surprisingly good for the price... fan was pretty loud, though.




On to the issues: GPU height/riser cable, case side panels and thermals.

Because the included GPU riser cable is so rigid, as it bends under the central plate of the case it creates a bulge which presses against the bottom/bottom-left of the GPU (when viewed from the GPU side). You can press on this bulge or on the GPU heatsink shroud to move it back to its original position. I could probably jury-rig something to press on the riser when the case is closed, but it would be tricky. Viewed from the side, the GPU bulges out from the case by about 1mm - not much, but enough to cause issues.

In troubleshooting for this post, I realised that this issue and the last one are probably linked: when laid flat, with the external side of the panels facing upwards, the side panels are very slightly convex: the middle of the case panel is in contact with the table and the edges rise up from the able about 5mm. I only noticed this by accident - I hadn't been able to work out why the side panel was contacting with the GPU fan (such that it couldn't spin with the side panel on). Also, although the case arrived with the side panels attached, when I went to reattach them after the PC was built I found I could only get three screws on - the lower rear screw hole on the chassis was off by about 2mm. Pretty annoying, but I now realise probably a symptom of the convex side panels. I also can't just flip the side panels around as there are screw wells machined into the side panel to prevent people installing them the wrong way round.

Finally, thermals. InSparks said his thermals were 40 CPU, 28 GPU idle, 71 CPU 65-70 GPU load... My CPU hovers around 65C idle, up to 90-95C while gaming, and GPU is much more reasonable at about 40 idle, 72 load. At first I thought it was the Z39 cooler I bought for like $30 with the case, so I ordered the Noctua low-profile replacement (much heavier than the Z39) but that only dropped temps by about 5C. I'm 98% sure the thermal paste is being applied and cooler seated correctly: about a pea-sized drop of Noctua thermal paste and CPU cooler screws then tightened gradually in an X pattern. The Noctua CPU fan is pushing air towards the CPU (although the GPU fan has the opposite orientation, pulling air *away* from the heatsink...). My Noctua casefan at the top of the case is pulling air up and exhausting out the top. Maybe it just needs undervolting, but... the temps still seem abnormally high. Ambient temp is like 24C. Also, the M.2 SSD is idling at 85C and maxing at 101C - that certainly seems too hot. I peeled the plastic film off the foam pad on the included Aorus M2 housing (unless I'm supposed to remove the foam pad as well?! I don't remember that in the manual).





It runs fine, and I haven't had any heat-related shutdowns or real issues (other than the fans being a little loud while gaming) - but I'd like to get the GPU side panel on and this heat issue sorted.

Overall 9/10 case, current rating of 6-7/10 due to the above issues.

Thanks for reading, and I'd welcome any suggestions about thermals/case side panels. I might get in contact with Metalfish about replacement side panels, or might try bending them. But this aluminium seems the type to snap or fail rather than flex (judging, too, by the little creases in the aluminium where it's been bent as part of the case).

 

[KepKe]

Did you perhaps install the M.2 without the needed hardware? Aka the bolt/nut thing. If you remove the heatsink, you should see the imprint of the M.2 SSD in the thermal pad, if it made contact that is.

 

[BaK]

Finally, thermals. InSparks said his thermals were 40 CPU, 28 GPU idle, 71 CPU 65-70 GPU load... My CPU hovers around 65C idle, up to 90-95C while gaming, and GPU is much more reasonable at about 40 idle, 72 load. At first I thought it was the Z39 cooler I bought for like $30 with the case, so I ordered the Noctua low-profile replacement (much heavier than the Z39) but that only dropped temps by about 5C. I'm 98% sure the thermal paste is being applied and cooler seated correctly: about a pea-sized drop of Noctua thermal paste and CPU cooler screws then tightened gradually in an X pattern. The Noctua CPU fan is pushing air towards the CPU (although the GPU fan has the opposite orientation, pulling air *away* from the heatsink...). My Noctua casefan at the top of the case is pulling air up and exhausting out the top. Maybe it just needs undervolting, but... the temps still seem abnormally high. Ambient temp is like 24C. Also, the M.2 SSD is idling at 85C and maxing at 101C - that certainly seems too hot. I peeled the plastic film off the foam pad on the included Aorus M2 housing (unless I'm supposed to remove the foam pad as well?! I don't remember that in the manual).

I just experienced hot air recirculation in my latest build.
I would advise adding a duct your CPU cooler if you can manage to.
How is the fan of the CPU cooler set btw, intake or exhaust? I would suggest intake, but some tests should be done to find the best fan orientation.

I also have a 1TB EVO M.2, but in the PCIe slot, and an EVO Plus in the B450i motherboard M.2 slot. Both are idling around 50°C. If you can prevent hot air being recycled by the CPU cooler, I bet your M.2 temps will also be better.
Oh, I am running my M.2s without heatsink so far. You could try removing yours and see what you get! And if you keep it, only the M.2 controller should be in contact with it, not the NAND.

 

[willylim74]

I have Metalfish S3 since 2019.
Ryzen 5 1600
GTX 1660 Super
MSI B450i Gaming Plus

The thermals are very bad, especially for the m2.nvme SSD. I had my SSD died in less than 2 years.

After replacing, I started monitoring closely the m2.nvme SSD temp and made the following observations:

1. The m2.nvme SSD temp will be very similar to the CPU temp, because it is right behind it on my motherboard.

2. The way to keep temps to more normal range is to set in bio CPU fan and top SYS fan to FULL SPEED always. This will keep the CPU and SSD temps to about 65 C under load and 50 C on idle.

3. Setting the GPU fan to full speed helps a little but not as much as the point 2.

I feel this is a design issue where the m2.nvme SSD is sandwiched between a hot CPU and GPU. Also not being able to mount a bigger CPU cooler contributes to this problem.

Im wondering whether there is enough clearance to add a heatsink to the SSD?

 

[fabada]

Thanks everyone for your tips.

I played around a little bit with the fan directions and found the optimal was having the Noctua 37mm fan in the default position - pushing air towards the CPU through the heatsink. In the end, I didn't need undervolting - I changed desk locations and was amazed in the difference between temps. I thought airflow at my old desk was fine - it was basically a small nook made of veneered wood - like a recess in a wall that I was using as a stop-gap workspace.

I've since upgraded to a standalone workspace against a wall in the room - CPU temps are now peaking at about 80C, idling around 50-60. Even the M2 has improved - it's now idling around 50C under regular operating load (I run my OS from the M2) with the ASIC controller ('drive temperature 2') idling around 65C, peaking around 75C - but I gather this is normal. I checked the heatsink on it - it was properly installed and thermal performance was better with it on than off. But there is something weird about using foam as a heatsink; it's pretty counter-intuitive.

The current setup now has the PC on a desk against a wall - so only below and behind the case have surfaces. Before, it was blocked on three sides - picture it being placed in the corner of a hollow cube - and even the unblocked sides didn't have very much natural airflow.

So, yeah, lesson learned - SFF PCs really need suitable airflow, particularly if you're trying to run even slightly beefy components. And that airflow isn't just inside the case, but also the surrounding environment. That's turned out to matter much more than the ambient temp. Problem solved. Thanks everyone for your input.