In win H-Frame SFF Build Mini-ITX i3 750Ti Media/Gaming PC

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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In win H-Frame SFF Build Mini-ITX i3 750Ti Media/Gaming PC

So I wanted to share my four year old media PC since its still getting regular use despite its age and limited hardware. Its premise was to be a one-size-fits-all device which could be used as a cord cutting media centre and a gaming pc that would interface like a console.

From the ground up, I wanted it to be as small as possible so it could be displayed in the living room or fit into a TV cabinet.





The In-win H-Frame Mini case is a SFF case that puts form far above function. With its striking design, it does not have any fans to circulate and cool the components inside and thus relies on having an open air chassis. As a result, reviewers and forum posts alike suggested it would be a dust magnet, as well as being very limited on hardware. Nonetheless, the design was so different to everything else and it proved hard to move away from.

What clinched it was the GTX 750TI GPU. This particular card was revered for its low heat, low noise and performance jump over older hardware. It was known for being able to slot in almost any computer and run off its Power Unit and make gaming accessible on almost any machine.

The H-Frame Mini's has a built in PSU rated at 180W (though it is efficient with a bronze 80% rating). It's non-standard size obviously and it certainly wasn't designed for gaming. It was unusual in that the power loads are spread and its not drawn from one rail like cheap PSU's. It was a risk but I went for it.

The processor was an Intel i3 4130T (low-power), on a Z87 motherboard (Odd mix but I think I was concerned about inhibiting the GPU or RAM bandwidth). I had to import a low-profile 750TI card from America. It cost about £40 more than a single fan SFF card at the time.






Cable management is not this case's forte but it was good that it came with decent braided cables. It took a few attempts to get the wiring correct. The difficult bit was fitting the GPU.




While the length of the card was short enough to allow adequate room for main power cables to connect to the motherboard, the width required a difficult cut into the housing by 6mm. This was done using a hack saw with a modified blade. The aluminium sheets which make up the case are 4mm thick and there were 5 of them to cut, so it took a lot of patience. Once the cut was complete, the card was able to squeeze in and remains butted up against the open air frame, where it humms along fairly happily. And the frame feels just as rigid.




The OS is windows 7 which has a modified startup and boots into a 10' Kodi interface. Its WAG friendly and can be controlled by remote or controller. The Pulse Eight CDC adaptor is great addition since it automatically switches the channel to the correct AV input once the PC is booted up. The performance is good and combined with the SSD, it takes about 10 seconds from cold start to the screen shown.

Gaming performance isn't too bad either. The processor compliments the GPU well and can run most (older) 3D titles without a hitch.

Unfortunately, with machines like the Alienware Alpha and the Nvidia Shield boxes, this machine is now more or less redundant. It also cost a little more at circa £500 for the lot.

Nevertheless, I feel that since my machine is packed with desktop class components throughout, there may be a slim chance that in the future, the core power could be upgraded. If anyone has any ideas or feedback, I'd love to hear them.

JW
 
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Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
2,201
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Nice build! I'm mightily impressed with those cuts in the chassis considering they were done by hand - they're straight and square enough I thought they were the original shape of the fins at first.

Are you sure about the CPU model, btw? I can't find that on Intel Ark, and their low-power series usually come with S (65W) or T (35W) suffixes.

As for upgradeability, there's definitely room to grow in that chassis and with that PSU. A low profile GTX 1050 Ti or 1650 (the latter is absolutely terrible value with its $150 MSRP and real prices often $10-30 over that, but it's the best performance you'll get in LP form currently) will provide a decent-to-great boost to GPU performance. CPUs have also come a long way since Ivy Bridge, and as long as you're able to cool it you should be able to fit a 65W 6-core Ryzen 5 (or one of the 4-core versions if you want lower power) in there if you want some extra oomph without a huge outlay. Intel usually has more low-power (35W) variants available, but they're also more expensive.
 

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
16
11
Thanks! I was careful to take my time as I didn't want to spoil its lines. You're right, the cpu indeed was wrong, it was an Intel i3 4130T.

I'm very heartened to hear that it could possibly grow. It has been good, and even with a stock cooler its whisper quiet even during extended gaming sessions. Nonetheless, its the component I want to update the most as it serves as the system's most stark bottleneck.

I was looking at a Power unit earlier called a HDPLEX, it appears to be a similar form factor to the proprietary unit in this case. It would be worth an upgrade if possible, as the Intel low profile units are frustratingly expensive.





Thanks for the advice regarding graphics cards. The 1650 doesn't yet have a low profile card but judging by the 1050ti cards, they will most likely be shipped with the double slot end piece. This will require another mod of the case and while I can make a cut to the right to allow the second end piece to slide in, the DVI port would have to be moved or removed completely. While I love a mod, the thought of butchering a brand new GPU doesn't excite me so much :confused:
 
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rfarmer

Spatial Philosopher
Jul 7, 2017
2,607
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No guarantee with a low profile GTX 1650 but if you look at the current models seems like about half have done away with the DVI, so hopefully you can find a low profile with just HDMI and DP.
 
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Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
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Right, I forgot to take that into consideration. I think I would say go for it, though, as I've seen quite a few DVI port removals and they seem to be relatively problem free. GPUs also very, very rarely fail, so I wouldn't worry about voiding the warranty (though of course I'd test it first). Of course I understand the trepidation towards taking a hacksaw or dremel to a new piece of kit. I guess it'll be a few years yet before DVI ports start going extinct on the low end cards.

Also it feels kind of silly to recommend the 1650 given that it's absolutely horrible value (the RX 570 outperforms it by >10% and is $30-50 cheaper depending on the model), but in a low-profile form factor with no PCIe power it's the best you can get.

Given that you have a T-series CPU and a case with limited airflow there are some limits to how much of a CPU performance increase you can get, but Intel recently announced their new full desktop CPU lineup including chips like the 6-core i5-9400 T at 35W. Then again, with an open case like that I wouldn't be surprised if you could run a 65W CPU with a decent cooler, such as a Ryzen 2600 with the included Wraith Stealth (AMD's stock coolers are far superior to Intel's) or a Noctua L9/Cryorig C7.

For power the HDPlex lineup is excellent and relatively easy to use. Depending on your CPU choice the HDPlex 160 DC-ATX + 160 AC-DC should work well for a build like yours. Another option worth looking into is @Thehack's 200W 12V setup on their site. It's cheaper, a bit smaller, and likely a bit more efficient. Not much of a reason to replace your PSU if it's working well though.
 

jwalla17

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Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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11
No worries. Its a bit of a minefield, but nothing involving computers has ever been simple. I guess that's why forever tinkering with them seems so normal whereas in any other walk of life it would be plain daft! Well if a rumour of a LP 1650TI coming out later this year is true, it may well have the pesky port removed as a high performance variant.

The case's open air does work really well. Since the air is able to move freely from one side to the other, the fans rarely need to ramp up. Its similar to old buildings that have passive cross-ventilation. The processors you suggested would be good in that I could also update the RAM so to give piece of mind that I won't be bottlenecking a new GPU. If I could increase the TDP of the power supply, even the old i5 4690K processor would be a big improvement over my existing one.

Thanks. Well atm the car is needing some upgrades first so this machine is way back in the queue. It will be a while.
 

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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Would anyone be able to suggest a possible upgrade path for the i3-4130T CPU which does not require a PSU upgrade? The PSU is proprietary and is rated at 80 Bronze efficiency so I am at the limits when it comes to component power draw.

I don't know much about undervolting, but the quad core i3-9100F with a reduced TDP could work within the 180W envelope I'm stuck in.
 
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smitty2k1

King of Cable Management
Dec 3, 2016
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Would anyone be able to suggest a possible upgrade path for the i3-4130T CPU which does not require a PSU upgrade? The PSU is proprietary and is rated at 80 Bronze efficiency so I am at the limits when it comes to component power draw.

I don't know much about undervolting, but the quad core i3-9100F with a reduced TDP could work within the 180W envelope I'm stuck in.
There are a few of us powering 65w CPUs + 75w LP GPU off a PicoPSU 160XT. So I would imagine your 180w PSU would work just fine for that too. Intel and AMD both have plenty of nice 65w CPUs.
 

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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I've read that TDP is not a reliable indicator of power draw though, especially when turbo boost is a feature. I will stick to the logic that 6 cores is too much, and purely look at the 4 core 65w offerings.

Thanks.
 

owliwar

Master of Cramming
Lazer3D
Apr 7, 2017
586
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from my experience, you can always limit your cpu boost speed. all core speed should draw more power than single core boost, so maybe 6 cores could be ok.
sometimes 6 cores average cores can be a bit more useful than 4 fast ones. that would require some testing, though
 

jwalla17

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Apr 27, 2019
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Thanks Owliwar. I might just have another look at the Ryzen 5 3600 then ? It was getting rave reviews for its efficiency in the publication I read.
 
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Jello

Airflow Optimizer
Nov 15, 2016
376
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@jwalla17 that's a wicked looking case. Not sure if I missed it, but how did you find it for dust? Also regarding CPUs, I do believe most if not all AMD boards have the ability to block some boosting features to hold the CPU at a certain power draw. I'll check my ASRock board when I get home.
 

jwalla17

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Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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That would be great, I mostly play strategy games which rarely create intense peaks in demand.

The case has been really good ?. The only place it accumulates is on the fins and external metal surface. So its really no more difficult to keep clean than a regular case. I'm really happy with it. It's a crying shame they never did a follow up like they did with the large tower case.
 

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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RE Upgrade:
Would the following be suitable?

i3-9100F with GTX 1650 Low Profile.
Using existing 180W PSU (I was actually looking at ways of using adding a Pico as a secondary PSU to increase the power I had to play with, but it looks risky and complicated).

The bottleneck calculator on pc-builds.com suggests its a good pairing. I do only use the machine for games so I don't need a powerful cpu for other tasks.
 

Bubba

Average Stuffer
Nov 4, 2019
63
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smallformfactor.net
I have owned many cpu's: single core, dual core with 2 threads, dual core with 4 threads, quad core with 4 threads.
Currently, I have the i5-9400F. For gaming, it's the smoothest cpu I have ever owned.

With a 0.14V undervolt, the highest power consumption I have seen (in gaming) is ~40W, according to MSI afterburner.
This 40W is in Destiny2 multiplayer map with approximately 10-20 other players on the map.
Single player games use approximately 20-35W (as shown in Afterburner).
I do not play 32-64 player maps. But the highest power consumption I have seen is 40W in gaming (with cpu undervolt).
I have a i5-9400F + 1660 Ti (overclocked to 130 watts) running on a 250 Watt PSU , no problem at all.
Recently, I started replaying old games and I was surprised how they all run smoother than I recall.
 
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jwalla17

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Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
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Does anyone know of a good guide for undervolting?

In the end, I went for a 9100F and 1650 graphics card because I felt that they compliment each other well and it meets my goals for an occasional/casual setup.
Mobo: ASRock Z370 Fatal1ty M-ITX/AC
RAM: Ballistic Sport 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4-2400

This article for a pre-built states that peak power could be as high as 160W, which would be very bad indeed on my Bronze rated 180W.

 
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Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
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Does anyone know of a good guide for undervolting?

In the end, I went for a 9100F and 1650 graphics card because I felt that they compliment each other well and it meets my goals for an occasional/casual setup.

This article for a pre-built states that peak power could be as high as 160W, which would be very bad indeed on my Bronze rated 180W.

160W should be fine unless the PSU is old or poorly made - PSU ratings are for continuous output, not peak. Still, that review is for a large desktop with an mATX motherboard, several case fans and a 3.5" HDD, so I would expect the power draw of an ITX-based system to be a bit lower (though not much - maybe 10W). You can always undervolt your CPU and GPU to lower power draw further. Otherwise that sounds like a good setup :)
 

jwalla17

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Apr 27, 2019
16
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160W should be fine unless the PSU is old or poorly made - PSU ratings are for continuous output, not peak. Still, that review is for a large desktop with an mATX motherboard, several case fans and a 3.5" HDD, so I would expect the power draw of an ITX-based system to be a bit lower (though not much - maybe 10W). You can always undervolt your CPU and GPU to lower power draw further. Otherwise that sounds like a good setup :)

Thanks for that.

Yes, the PSU is of a very high quality from what I've found out (Japanese made).

Indeed that is true. My SFF setup is very frugal because of the M-itx and the open air setup which requires no case fans, and a single SSD which uses very little. Nonetheless, it would be good to try undervolting since I have the option available through my motherboard and therefore keeping the power draw close to the mark where its at its most efficient.
 
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