The SR2 MP radiators are 60mm thick. While Lian Li for some reason don't list the max thickness for a radiators in the Q58, consider that 60mm is 5mm more than most AIO radiators with fans. Then you need to add 25mm fans to that (slim fans on a thick rad do not work well). That's 85mm+ (88mm if you go for Arctic P14s. I can't possibly see that fitting in there. It would have been awesome, but I don't see it happening.
The pump won't be able to pull liquid in if there's only air there. But the solution is relatively simple: fill the reservoir, (cap off the reservoir if needed) tilt the case so the liquid runs into the pump, start it, top up as needed. Repeat until the loop is bled. If your reservoir is lower than the pump, make sure that the outlet from the radiator is sufficiently low down that it still will catch air bubbles.
The SR2 MP radiators are 60mm thick. While Lian Li for some reason don't list the max thickness for a radiators in the Q58, consider that 60mm is 5mm more than most AIO radiators with fans. Then you need to add 25mm fans to that (slim fans on a thick rad do not work well). That's 85mm+ (88mm if you go for Arctic P14s. I can't possibly see that fitting in there. It would have been awesome, but I don't see it happening.
The pump won't be able to pull liquid in if there's only air there. But the solution is relatively simple: fill the reservoir, (cap off the reservoir if needed) tilt the case so the liquid runs into the pump, start it, top up as needed. Repeat until the loop is bled. If your reservoir is lower than the pump, make sure that the outlet from the radiator is sufficiently low down that it still will catch air bubbles.
@thoughtfix Which slim 120mm fan are you using at the bottom? How did you manage to fit it in? I barely have any clearance after all the PSU connectors and cables.
Also, do you have any issues with front USB connectors and high-power consumption devices such as phones? I have the same mobo and CPU and I am experiencing frequent connects and disconnects on the front USB connectors.
I removed the two hooks in the inside of the case where the radiator is now sitting does not affect the hinges or sides in anyway i have found ( saves using a dremel or making a mess )
I then used the EK SE 120 on the bottom with the 120 noctua cromax screwed from bottom of the case , the radiator with that fan like that allows the room you need.
I also used the ekwb kinnectic pump and res fits like a charm only thing you need to do is the back pannel i pressed down a tad to give clearance.
Really happy with mine so far performs really well so far.
Cant comment on front USB etc not really used them as of yet.
I just use mine for gaming and general computing not into chasing figures but happy i made the switch from the ncase.
@thoughtfix Which slim 120mm fan are you using at the bottom? How did you manage to fit it in? I barely have any clearance after all the PSU connectors and cables.
Also, do you have any issues with front USB connectors and high-power consumption devices such as phones? I have the same mobo and CPU and I am experiencing frequent connects and disconnects on the front USB connectors.
Thank you for the compliment! That's a Silverstone slim 120mm RGB PWM fan and it works fine but doesn't pump a ton of air. I haven't attempted high-power-draw through the front USB ports yet. No need: it's a VR box only.
I read all pages of this thread again, and couldn't decide.
What do you guys think is the best way to bleed a loop in this case assuming I will use the Aquanaut Extreme?
I read all pages of this thread again, and couldn't decide.
What do you guys think is the best way to bleed a loop in this case assuming I will use the Aquanaut Extreme?
I have 2 different fill/bleed ports. I have a T fitting on my GPU outlet and I just laid the case on the side to bleed for about a day or 2. On the other side I have an ek-quantum torque drain valve below my radiator outlet.
I read all pages of this thread again, and couldn't decide.
What do you guys think is the best way to bleed a loop in this case assuming I will use the Aquanaut Extreme?
Bleeding using the fill ports on the AE will be challenging as there's no chance of air gathering at those ports while the pump is running. That means a lot of starting and stopping the pump to move and then remove air. I think I've suggested adding a flow indicator with the rotor removed before (EK has a nice looking one, or there are plenty of cheap options) as a micro-reservoir/bubble catcher. If you can get your hands on some bubble-catching foam to fill it with that's even better. These are so tiny they can fit in pretty much any loop. Even with QDCs in my loop, I love having this as a means of catching bubbles and getting the last air out of the loop, as it adds a bleed/fill/drain port as well, and is incredibly easy to mount as it can just be held up by the tubing or screwed into a convenient fitting with a m/m adapter. Adding something like this will save you a lot of hassle.
I want to join your club
Now i am confused how to do it.
Never did any custom loops myself
Biggest question for me is pump and res, which can be used in this case
The stickers were made on a Cricut Joy machine, and I DO NOT suggest that path for anyone even though the results came through.
The software is SO BAD. If you want to use your own designs, you have to upload them to their "cloud" then re-download them and then spend 45 minutes while the software tells you why your design is incompatible. If you want to use their designs, fonts, get "more storage" for collections (abandoning the fact that you have a WHOLE PC to store little SVG files) or get rid of nagging, you have to pay money over and over and over.
You an spend 45 minutes designing and placing something and it will get all the way to the last step and say "OK That'll be $14.97 please" ... because you selected a font and clipart that cost money and have to delete them and it doesn't tell you WHICH you used so you have to go piece by piece.
How it should work:
Create a sticker design and save it as an SVG.
Load software and import SVG file
Delete backgrould
Size, select materials, load, and cut.
How it works with Cricut's awful software
Create a sticker design and save it as an SVG.
Load software
[*]Create an account and sign in
[*]Hope that the cloud system is not down for maintenance
[*]Get bombarded with ads for designs, devices, subscription services, and materials they can sell you
[*]Click New Project
[*]Click Upload (nothing guides you to this. It's still trying to sell you the fonts and designs on their service.)
[*]Choose the file from your computer
[*]Select "image type" (simple, moderately complex, or complex with no clarity on what qualifies as each)
[*]Click Continue
[*]Get an upsell for the monthly subscription service to allow you to automatically remove the background, but choose to manually delete it piece by piece anyway
[*]Create a new project
[*]Click "Images"
[*]Get bombarded by a whole lot of for-pay images that you can license or buy as part of their subscription service
[*]Hunt for your image, which is buried under "Ownership" under the filter "Uploaded"
[*]Click "add to canvas"
Resize to fit your desired size
Click "Make it," select materials, verify placement, load, and cut.
The Cricut machine DOES (technically) make custom stickers, but the software experience is so entirely bad that I do not suggest you use them. There are alternative brands and cutting machines but I do not know enough about them to suggest one now.
Printable Vinyl vs. Sticker Paper-
What’s the Difference? Printable vinyl is made of plastic, and sticker paper is usually made of paper. The biggest practical difference I’ve found is that printable vinyl can be pulled up without tearing, whereas sticker paper will tear when you try to remove it. It also leaves a less adhesive residue (if any) when removed from a surface. Basically, depending on stickers I have designed for one of my clients and related things. Printable vinyl is also more waterproof and often more UV protectant, making it the go-to for outdoor applications, like car decals.
Be sure to read the product descriptions, as not all printable vinyl says it’s waterproof and works for bumper stickers or decals. What is Clear Sticker Paper? Clear sticker paper is not really paper but is transparent vinyl or plastic. However, it still tears fairly easily if you try to reposition or remove it. Clear sticker paper gives you a transparent background for your stickers. Most people use these transparent sticker paper for items like candles, planner stickers, or other objects where you’d like to see the surface beneath the sticker. Clear sticker paper vs. clear printable vinyl- Clear sticker paper can come perfectly clear, whereas most transparent printable vinyl has a bit of a frosted appearance. Are All White Sticker Papers the Same? No. Some white sticker paper is better quality than other paper. More importantly, colours of white differ- some of the “white” sticker papers actually show up as a warm white that’s really more of a cream.
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