Log [in progress] I'm at it again - This time with a Lian Li Q58

[thoughtfix]

COMPLETE. I still have fan tuning to do but:

Album link (and for mobile users who have tough times seeing embedded albums, it's imgur.com/a/WUKprB9


I am not sure about the placement of the Aladdin Sane sticker on the side. Might make one out of white and set it more offset (in front of the GPU's circuit board and not water block as much) and take some night shots too.

In a Time Spy Extreme stress test, CPU and GPU both got to the low 70s even though I am confident I bled out all the air (took a lot of time!) so I'll be playing with pump speed and fan curves for a while.

More detailed post to come.

 

[thoughtfix]

Detail on a 280mm radiator in a Lian Li Q58 case:

Yes, it does work. However, it will be VERY tight. This is a Primochill EximoSX slim 280mm radiator with a pair of Phanteks PH-F140MP (well PH-F140MP_BK_PWM) and it can be installed with a 2.5mm SSD in the front but with zero mm to spare. The length of the radiator is 315mm and it has to be VERY carefully and gently placed into the case. The fans aren't the quietest, but they were what I had on hand for high static pressure 140mm PWM fans and do the job decently well.

Be aware that you will possibly bend the connector for the fan header on the PCB on the flip-out door. Do not put too much pressure on that connector as it looks like it'd be annoying to desolder and reattach if it broke. That said, that little door design was such a blessing for building in this case especially as I changed up the RGB (I added a third Lian Li strip so I had two on the CPU side, one on the top of the GPU side, and also used the GPUs' RGB and the Silverstone's bottom fan RGB.)

 

[thoughtfix]

Notes on Asus "performance optimization" on the Strix B550-I:

My Time Spy Extreme stress test CPU scores were increased by about 8%, but the CPU temperatures got as high as 90C (!!!) with it enabled. During normal gaming (Cyberpunk, Watch Dogs Legion) with very good (appropriate for 3080) settings, I was bottlenecked by the GPU more than the CPU so am just going to leave that off unless I find a game that truly taxes the CPU for extended periods of time.

Here's the comparison: https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/23912319/spy/23926348

It also raised the "Average" temperature of the GPU from 56C to 62C (meaning peak temps were much higher but I didn't write those down) because water in the loop was getting hotter. 8% is significant in an extended high-intensity workload likeTime Spy Extreme, but I don't hit those workloads when gaming. If I did, I'd have built a system appropriate to cool a 5900X or something similar. As a pure gaming system, the 5600X with Asus performance enhancements OFF works perfectly fine for me.

 

[thoughtfix]

Notes on the Lian Li branded RGB strips: They're very high quality, properly diffused, bright, and the mounting system makes them blend into this case beautifully with no visible "stickers" or hotspots. The cables are plenty long enough, and the top strips can even have the cable tucked into the installation rail so they have small pigtails remaining (appropriate to reach the PCB on the RGB/Fan door without extra garbage.)

Installed on the top, you'll have most of the visible light hitting the radiator. It looks pretty good hitting a white radiator.

In my opinion, it's 100% worth the purchase if you're going for a looks-focused build.

 

[thoughtfix]

Notes on sticker cutting:

The stickers were made on a Cricut Joy machine, and I DO NOT suggest that path for anyone even though the results came through.

The software is SO BAD. If you want to use your own designs, you have to upload them to their "cloud" then re-download them and then spend 45 minutes while the software tells you why your design is incompatible. If you want to use their designs, fonts, get "more storage" for collections (abandoning the fact that you have a WHOLE PC to store little SVG files) or get rid of nagging, you have to pay money over and over and over.

You an spend 45 minutes designing and placing something and it will get all the way to the last step and say "OK That'll be $14.97 please" ... because you selected a font and clipart that cost money and have to delete them and it doesn't tell you WHICH you used so you have to go piece by piece.

How it should work:

1. Create a sticker design and save it as an SVG.
2. Load software and import SVG file
3. Delete backgrould
4. Size, select materials, load, and cut.

How it works with Cricut's awful software

1. Create a sticker design and save it as an SVG.
2. Load software
3. Spoiler: thirteen extra steps with tons of upsells if you want to read them

   [*]Create an account and sign in
   [*]Hope that the cloud system is not down for maintenance
   [*]Get bombarded with ads for designs, devices, subscription services, and materials they can sell you
   [*]Click New Project
   [*]Click Upload (nothing guides you to this. It's still trying to sell you the fonts and designs on their service.)
   [*]Choose the file from your computer
   [*]Select "image type" (simple, moderately complex, or complex with no clarity on what qualifies as each)
   [*]Click Continue
   [*]Get an upsell for the monthly subscription service to allow you to automatically remove the background, but choose to manually delete it piece by piece anyway
   [*]Create a new project
   [*]Click "Images"
   [*]Get bombarded by a whole lot of for-pay images that you can license or buy as part of their subscription service
   [*]Hunt for your image, which is buried under "Ownership" under the filter "Uploaded"
   [*]Click "add to canvas"
4. Resize to fit your desired size
5. Click "Make it," select materials, verify placement, load, and cut.

The Cricut machine DOES (technically) make custom stickers, but the software experience is so entirely bad that I do not suggest you use them. There are alternative brands and cutting machines but I do not know enough about them to suggest one now.

 

[LucyMorn]

Hi guys, new here, and this thread looks like an amazing source of information.
I am planning my first custom water loop build inside the Q58, I have time as I want to finish my current build first before selling it (currently waiting for a custom GPU backplate and shroud of my own design), so I have few weeks to gather all the components.

Would love to get sanity check on my current plans with some questions:

Q58 White
12700k + 3080 Ti FE (for its smaller size)
Corsair XR5 280mm (white) with two P14 (white) as exhaust
Corsair XG7 waterblock (206mm), will be painting the black parts to mirror silver
Corsair SF750 (will be painting the visible panels white)
Arctic P12 as intake in the bottom

Now to my questions:
I have tons of space in the GPU area because of the short PCB design of the FE cards (over 110mm) and I want to place a D5 pump\res combo there.
I couldn't find any information on how to mount a pump\res there, also would love to get recommendations for a small D5 pump\res to get.
I watched GGF videos (both of them) like 10 times and he doesn't talk about how he mounted the pump\res.

Thanks,

 

[thoughtfix]

Thanks LucyMorn! Here's some sanity checking:

1. Do not put the 3080 Ti or any reference/blow-through without using a waterblock. That would suffocate in this case. With liquid cooling you're in better shape, but you'd have to switch cases if you decide custom liquid isn't your final plan.
2. I have no idea how long the overall waterblock will be on the FE verson of the 3080 Ti, but I have a Vector 3080 FTW3 on mine so you can get those dimensions from EK and get a good idea of how much pump space you may end up having.
3. The Corsair XR5 280mm radiator is an overall length of 310mm overall length - 5mm shorter than the Primochill I chose. Should fit, but you won't have much wiggle room. I do not know the cooling potential of that radiator compared to the one I have, but the exhaust holes are pretty blocked on top so you'll want very good static pressure.
4. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can make your own pump wherever you have space.

I don't know the thermal load of the 3080 Ti and the 12700k but if the last couple generations of Intel are any indication, they are going to be HOT HOT HOT. I went with a 5600X specifically because it's a 65W chip. I have a 10700k in a different system, but didn't use it here because I didn't want all that extra heat load in a 280mm loop. I expect the 12700k to be double that if I am right about Intel's direction. Also the K series is for overclocking, and that dramatically increases the heat load if you take advantage of that feature. In short, I think you may be asking too much from your cooling and power decisions for this particular case. Not saying you can't make it work, but you'd be missing out on all he potential speed your choice of hardware can offer because you need to undervolt or downclock to keep the thermal/power loads under control.

Hope that helps.

 

[thoughtfix]

Also D5 pumps are FAT regardless of how you mount them. Go DDC if you can. A Phanteks PH-R160 with a DDC might work? I have one here that went into an older SV590 build and it worked because I was able to put the reservoir in front of the GPU.

 

[LucyMorn]

Thanks LucyMorn! Here's some sanity checking:

1. Do not put the 3080 Ti or any reference/blow-through without using a waterblock. That would suffocate in this case. With liquid cooling you're in better shape, but you'd have to switch cases if you decide custom liquid isn't your final plan.
2. I have no idea how long the overall waterblock will be on the FE verson of the 3080 Ti, but I have a Vector 3080 FTW3 on mine so you can get those dimensions from EK and get a good idea of how much pump space you may end up having.
3. The Corsair XR5 280mm radiator is an overall length of 310mm overall length - 5mm shorter than the Primochill I chose. Should fit, but you won't have much wiggle room. I do not know the cooling potential of that radiator compared to the one I have, but the exhaust holes are pretty blocked on top so you'll want very good static pressure.
4. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can make your own pump wherever you have space.

I don't know the thermal load of the 3080 Ti and the 12700k but if the last couple generations of Intel are any indication, they are going to be HOT HOT HOT. I went with a 5600X specifically because it's a 65W chip. I have a 10700k in a different system, but didn't use it here because I didn't want all that extra heat load in a 280mm loop. I expect the 12700k to be double that if I am right about Intel's direction. Also the K series is for overclocking, and that dramatically increases the heat load if you take advantage of that feature. In short, I think you may be asking too much from your cooling and power decisions for this particular case. Not saying you can't make it work, but you'd be missing out on all he potential speed your choice of hardware can offer because you need to undervolt or downclock to keep the thermal/power loads under control.

Hope that helps.

Thanks!

My bad, I thought it is implied that I will include the GPU in the loop.
I already have all the dimensions figured out (that's why I am going with a FE card - they are short).
I have total of 110x68.5x150mm for pump\res combo next to the GPU - but have no idea how to actually mount it above the 120mm I will put there.
Did you manage to install the rad with the terminal above the CPU? In Lian Li website they are only showing it with the tubes above the PSU.

 

[thoughtfix]

Thanks!

My bad, I thought it is implied that I will include the GPU in the loop.
I already have all the dimensions figured out (that's why I am going with a FE card - they are short).
I have total of 110x68.5x150mm for pump\res combo next to the GPU - but have no idea how to actually mount it above the 120mm I will put there.
Did you manage to install the rad with the terminal above the CPU? In Lian Li website they are only showing it with the tubes above the PSU.

Oh I get that you were putting the GPU in the loop - I was just letting you know that you had no option to go back to air and use the same case. It should fit fine.

The majority of the custom loops I've seen on this case have had some 3D printing or custom fabrication to mount the pump somewhere above the bottom fan. Try buying one of these and seeing if you can scoot the cross bars far enough to the GPU side of the case and mounting your pump/res to that? Again, D5 is going to be super fat so beware.

 

[LucyMorn]

Oh I get that you were putting the GPU in the loop - I was just letting you know that you had no option to go back to air and use the same case. It should fit fine.

The majority of the custom loops I've seen on this case have had some 3D printing or custom fabrication to mount the pump somewhere above the bottom fan. Try buying one of these and seeing if you can scoot the cross bars far enough to the GPU side of the case and mounting your pump/res to that? Again, D5 is going to be super fat so beware.

Ah that's not a problem - when I finish with a build I usually sell it and start another one from scratch.

 

[Valantar]

A DDC should really be sufficient for a loop like this, and can save you the trouble of mounting a pump+res combo if you go with something like an Aquanaut Extreme or Lobo pump+block combo (both have threads on the forums, the AE is launched, the Lobo is in pre-production beta testing). I'm running an OG Aquanaut (not Extreme, the Extreme should be much better thermally) with a Laing DDC 1T Plus PWM, the same radiator and fans as you, a 5800X and 6900 XT, in a Meshlicious, and it works very well. It is of course a lot of heat for such a small build, but it's absolutely capable of handling it.

What I would do: get an Aquanaut Extreme + a good DDC pump (the T1 Plus PWM is great IMO, very quiet and good flow), find a compact reservoir that fits in your leftover GPU space, and go from there. For mounting, either figure out a place for a standard clamp style mount on the PSU cover, or 3D print something to fit. Going the DDC route will save you a lot of headache compared to fitting a huge D5 in there. And if you insist on a standard CPU block, a DDC pump+res combo is still more realistic in terms of fitting it in there.

 

[thelaughingman]

I have total of 110x68.5x150mm for pump\res combo next to the GPU

for a standard D5 pump+res combo you'll need at least 75mm in one dimension - based off my Optimus Absolute D5 which is 146 x 75 x 75. most of the D5 tops / bottoms that I can find have dimensions of at least 80 x 80

 

[LucyMorn]

A DDC should really be sufficient for a loop like this, and can save you the trouble of mounting a pump+res combo if you go with something like an Aquanaut Extreme or Lobo pump+block combo (both have threads on the forums, the AE is launched, the Lobo is in pre-production beta testing). I'm running an OG Aquanaut (not Extreme, the Extreme should be much better thermally) with a Laing DDC 1T Plus PWM, the same radiator and fans as you, a 5800X and 6900 XT, in a Meshlicious, and it works very well. It is of course a lot of heat for such a small build, but it's absolutely capable of handling it.

What I would do: get an Aquanaut Extreme + a good DDC pump (the T1 Plus PWM is great IMO, very quiet and good flow), find a compact reservoir that fits in your leftover GPU space, and go from there. For mounting, either figure out a place for a standard clamp style mount on the PSU cover, or 3D print something to fit. Going the DDC route will save you a lot of headache compared to fitting a huge D5 in there. And if you insist on a standard CPU block, a DDC pump+res combo is still more realistic in terms of fitting it in there.

Thanks!

I am officially ditching the D5 idea.

I am teared between 3080 Ti FE (206mm) to a Zotac 3080 (243mm).
The FE will be cooled with Corsair XG7 which be disassembled and painted white\silver.
The Zotac will be cooled with a Heatkiller Nickel.
Both waterblocks cost the same - the FE will cost around $300 more.
The Zotac is significantly longer which will make everything more complicated.

I want to say "money is not an issue" but on the other hand I care about how much I spend on this, so I don't know.

What do you guys think?

 

[thelaughingman]

I want to say "money is not an issue" but on the other hand I care about how much I spend on this, so I don't know.

from what you're saying I infer that FPS/dollar is Priority 1, size is Priority 2. So I'd say go with the Zotac, but then again WC a 3080 is a bit of a waste IMO if you look at the cost of the block as a % of total GPU cost (Card + block).

 

[LucyMorn]

A DDC should really be sufficient for a loop like this, and can save you the trouble of mounting a pump+res combo if you go with something like an Aquanaut Extreme or Lobo pump+block combo (both have threads on the forums, the AE is launched, the Lobo is in pre-production beta testing). I'm running an OG Aquanaut (not Extreme, the Extreme should be much better thermally) with a Laing DDC 1T Plus PWM, the same radiator and fans as you, a 5800X and 6900 XT, in a Meshlicious, and it works very well. It is of course a lot of heat for such a small build, but it's absolutely capable of handling it.

What I would do: get an Aquanaut Extreme + a good DDC pump (the T1 Plus PWM is great IMO, very quiet and good flow), find a compact reservoir that fits in your leftover GPU space, and go from there. For mounting, either figure out a place for a standard clamp style mount on the PSU cover, or 3D print something to fit. Going the DDC route will save you a lot of headache compared to fitting a huge D5 in there. And if you insist on a standard CPU block, a DDC pump+res combo is still more realistic in terms of fitting it in there.

I tend to do that.
I really wanted that nice pump\res combo after the GPU but when I thought about it again I realized I am going to put it inside a Q58 which has a solid front panel - so I am not going to see what is directly behind that panel anyways.
Also I dont like the idea of 3d printing the mount for the pump\res.
This will make my life ten time easier.
Now I can basically get any GPU that I want with a decent waterblock.
Really wish there was stock for the Heatkiller 3080 XC3.

 

[Valantar]

I tend to do that.
I really wanted that nice pump\res combo after the GPU but when I thought about it again I realized I am going to put it inside a Q58 which has a solid front panel - so I am not going to see what is directly behind that panel anyways.
Also I dont like the idea of 3d printing the mount for the pump\res.
This will make my life ten time easier.
Now I can basically get any GPU that I want with a decent waterblock.
Really wish there was stock for the Heatkiller 3080 XC3.

Sounds good! Remember that filling and bleeding a loop without any kind of reservoir can be a bit of a hassle though. My solution: I have an EK flow indicator with the rotor removed just before the inlet for my Aquanaut, with some bubble-catching foam cut to fit. This gives me an extra fill port plus a means to catch small bubbles over time, and it's small and light enough to be held in place by the fittings and soft tubing it's mounted to. The EK flow indicator has a relatively low volume compared to most other similar flow indicators (the back wall is very thick), so IMO some other brand would be better, but it works, and looks good.

 

[thoughtfix]

As for filling: I WISH I went with something like this to fill directly from the top:

Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport Satin White Radiator - 280mm

The Black Ice® SR2™ MP delivers the next level in ultra-stealth PC radiator performance. The new Black Ice® SR2™ 280 MP uses the same ultra-stealth optimized Black Ice>® SR2™ compact Xtreme+ core design in a dual-140mm fan form factor. This gives performance enthusiasts a high flow, acoustically...

www.performance-pcs.com

 

[LucyMorn]

Sounds good! Remember that filling and bleeding a loop without any kind of reservoir can be a bit of a hassle though. My solution: I have an EK flow indicator with the rotor removed just before the inlet for my Aquanaut, with some bubble-catching foam cut to fit. This gives me an extra fill port plus a means to catch small bubbles over time, and it's small and light enough to be held in place by the fittings and soft tubing it's mounted to. The EK flow indicator has a relatively low volume compared to most other similar flow indicators (the back wall is very thick), so IMO some other brand would be better, but it works, and looks good.

Can I fill the loop through a reservoir (which is lower than the pump)? It means the pump will work without liquids for a few seconds...

 

[LucyMorn]

As for filling: I WISH I went with something like this to fill directly from the top:

Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport Satin White Radiator - 280mm

The Black Ice® SR2™ MP delivers the next level in ultra-stealth PC radiator performance. The new Black Ice® SR2™ 280 MP uses the same ultra-stealth optimized Black Ice>® SR2™ compact Xtreme+ core design in a dual-140mm fan form factor. This gives performance enthusiasts a high flow, acoustically...

www.performance-pcs.com

I didn't buy anything yet, this seems like an awesome product in my case! Do you think it will fit in the Q58?