General Design and Manufacture Discussion
- Thread starter KSliger
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I'm measuring like this: http://catiadoc.free.fr/online/bascuasl_C2/images/jogglecompensation_method2.gif
So 5mm for Depth=S
The side bracket has about 5mm between it and the side panel for the screws and dust filter that exists with the current design because the side panel isn't flush with the frame . With the ball stud and clips the frame would come out and the panel would be flush against it so I need to inset the bracket to keep the space for the dust filter.
So 5mm for Depth=S
The side bracket has about 5mm between it and the side panel for the screws and dust filter that exists with the current design because the side panel isn't flush with the frame . With the ball stud and clips the frame would come out and the panel would be flush against it so I need to inset the bracket to keep the space for the dust filter.
Do the removable standoffs on the CX-3300 fit in tightly? Seems like they'd be a bit wobbly. Are they just standard PennEng BSO standoffs?
They're BSOs machined to fit very closely, however I have no projects that use those adjustable standoffs because they're expensive.
For every project that uses that CX-33XX base case design we build the tray either without the adjustable standoffs, or with tapped holes and screw in standoffs.
Standard products are more of a "look what we can design" for getting OEM/ODM interest, seeing as I can't advertise their product, and then designing/modifying for budget from there.
That's definitely doable, so long as there's no hardware on the inside of that 17mm flange.
Industry standard is .197" or .203" circle punches - both have ±0.003 tolerances, so whichever is easier for you is fine by me.
Only have .156" hex but a hex tool in .20"-.24" size would probably be around $150-$200 if you want to factor that in.
Industry standard is .197" or .203" circle punches - both have ±0.003 tolerances, so whichever is easier for you is fine by me.
Only have .156" hex but a hex tool in .20"-.24" size would probably be around $150-$200 if you want to factor that in.
The ones I found that CaseLabs uses can be concealed when combined with these: http://catalog.pemnet.com/viewitems...led-head-studs-types-cha-cfha-chc-cfhc-metric
Needs at least 1.6mm panels though.
So it looks like you'd need the following parts:
Concealed head self-clinching stud
BS11 female ball stud
Ball stud clip
And a drawing:
Concealed head self-clinching stud
BS11 female ball stud
Ball stud clip
And a drawing:
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Is it a big deal to get custom parts from Penn Engineering? I was looking at these captive screws but the screw sticks out way just a bit too far in the fastened position. I'd need it with a screw length of just 2-3mm: http://catalog.pemnet.com/viewitems...l-screw-low-profile-knob-spring-loaded-metric
I've got a question that isn't quite clear to me.
Is it possible to cut sheet metal, then anodize it and afterwards do all the necessary bends on it?
Right now with the current case I've got a quotation in which anodizing is 60% of the cost of the case, this seems to be mainly because the case would be sent after all the bends have been put in, making the sandblasting of the case a very expensive and tedious job, also volume wise it isn't very efficient in the anodizing bath.
I've been looking around and was curious how Lian-Li does this, but they seem to anodize and brush the flat sheet metal first and then apply all the bends that are necessary.
Are there any special considerations for this approach?
Is it possible to cut sheet metal, then anodize it and afterwards do all the necessary bends on it?
Right now with the current case I've got a quotation in which anodizing is 60% of the cost of the case, this seems to be mainly because the case would be sent after all the bends have been put in, making the sandblasting of the case a very expensive and tedious job, also volume wise it isn't very efficient in the anodizing bath.
I've been looking around and was curious how Lian-Li does this, but they seem to anodize and brush the flat sheet metal first and then apply all the bends that are necessary.
Are there any special considerations for this approach?
I don't think you can bend anodised Aluminium, as the oxide layer is hard & brittle. If the sandblasting process is the main problem you might be able to sandblast when flat, bend, then anodise, but only if it's not too expensive to ship the parts back and forth.
I've looked for some more articles about the Lian-Li factory, it seems they do all the cutting first, then they brush it followed by bending, then it is sent out for anodizing which is done by an external party and lastly it seems inserts are inserted.
I want to keep manufacturing local so pricing is already higher then a little then outsourcing it to Asia, though shipping and taxes will be lower.
I'm trying to have the case anodized, but pricing is not in favor, going with powder coating seems more appealing.
Do you know what type of anodizing you're looking at? Type II isn't expensive, Type III or two step can be.
Also it's not possible to form after anodizing due to material cracking, some soft aluminum in clear alodine sometimes wont show the cracks though.
When you say 60%... are you talking ~$10 or ~$30? I can see anodizing possibly costing $10 for the whole case if you're in California.
We are talking over 50, 1 part is costing 25 just to sandblast in which they comment "because of the amount of bends it is very difficult and time-consuming to sandblast".
I've since changed the design of that part, but still the sandblasting is more expensive then the actual anodizing, mostly because it is a manual process so scaling doesn't really lower the costs.
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