Cocoon Case

[FullForceRainbow]

Hi everybody!

I've been working on a case to replace my Jonsbo U2 for a while now, and wanted to share it here. What I've come up with is a fully acrylic case with support for the HDPLEX 300 DC-ATX and upcoming internal 300W AC-DC converter. The HDPLEX will be powering my 5820k and MSI LP 1050ti.

The comes in at a little under 4 liters. Here is how everything fits in:

The motherboard and most of the HDPLEX DC-ATX go in the right side compartment of the case, while the 1050ti, AC-DC, power button, and some of the cables go in the left compartment. I hope that I can cool the 5820k better through chamber separation.

You can see some more pictures of the design here:


Can anybody give me some advice about where to source the acrylic from/where to get it cut? I'm also a little concerned about bending the acrylic for the curved side panel - are there any services that will do this?

Edit: I almost forgot! I want to thank everybody who modeled the components that are in the resources section here! They were super helpful, and I wouldn't have been able to figure out how to create the case without them!

Thanks for looking!

- FullForceRainbow

 

[jeshikat]

@C4B12 may have some suggestions: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/curv3d.412/

Some info on one method to achieve those large bend radiuses in acrylic: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/geeek-a10-itx-lp-dual-slot-and-flexatx.486/#post-8426

Wouldn't it be better to move the C14 inlet cutout as far down as it'll go to clear the AC-DC?

I hope that I can cool the 5820k better through chamber separation.

What heatsink will you be using on the CPU?

I almost forgot! I want to thank everybody who modeled the components that are in the resources section here! They were super helpful, and I wouldn't have been able to figure out how to create the case without them!

You're welcome! Just keep in mind that 300W AC-DC model is just a placeholder until it actually releases and I can measure the final product

 

[FullForceRainbow]

What heatsink will you be using on the CPU?

I had been planning to use the Dynatron T318 in combination with a slim 140mm fan to cool the CPU and hopefully cool the mobo off some too.

Wouldn't it be better to move the C14 inlet cutout as far down as it'll go to clear the AC-DC?

It probably would, tbh I just didn't like how it looked lower down. I didn't think that the end of the inlet would protrude so far into the case, but looking at it again it seems like I should drop it lower .

@C4B12 may have some suggestions: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/curv3d.412/

Some info on one method to achieve those large bend radiuses in acrylic: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/geeek-a10-itx-lp-dual-slot-and-flexatx.486/#post-8426

Thanks for the thread links! I'll read through them.

 

[robbee]

I'm doing pretty much the same bend in acrylic this weekend for my stoomdoos. I'm using a tool but I don't know its name in English. It's meant to heat paint so you can scratch it off. I'll let you know how it goes!

As to where to cut acrylic, lasering will be your best bet with those round corners. You can just look up any place near you that has a lasercutter. Here in Belgium, most universities also have these machines that are open to public.

 

[Ceros_X]

I'm doing pretty much the same bend in acrylic this weekend for my stoomdoos. I'm using a tool but I don't know its name in English. It's meant to heat paint so you can scratch it off. I'll let you know how it goes!

As to where to cut acrylic, lasering will be your best bet with those round corners. You can just look up any place near you that has a lasercutter. Here in Belgium, most universities also have these machines that are open to public.

Called a 'heat gun' in English, it's a technical term

(Your English is exceptional, I forget you aren't a native speaker!)

 

[FullForceRainbow]

I'm doing pretty much the same bend in acrylic this weekend for my stoomdoos. I'm using a tool but I don't know its name in English. It's meant to heat paint so you can scratch it off. I'll let you know how it goes!

Looks super nice! I'll be sure to check and see how it goes.

As to where to cut acrylic, lasering will be your best bet with those round corners. You can just look up any place near you that has a lasercutter. Here in Belgium, most universities also have these machines that are open to public.

I'll see if my university has one available, hopefully they will have a heat gun as well!

 

[C4B12]

Looks super nice! I'll be sure to check and see how it goes.

I'll see if my university has one available, hopefully they will have a heat gun as well!

I used a heatgun to bend 8mm acrylic in my build CURV3D. To get the round bend I used a Pringles can filled with sand haha, true story. But as it was 8mm thick acrylic I had to heat it up on both sides for a long time, from what I understand you will not be using that thick acrylic and that makes it a lot easier.

 

[robbee]

I used a heatgun to bend 8mm acrylic in my build CURV3D. To get the round bend I used a Pringles can filled with sand haha, true story. But as it was 8mm thick acrylic I had to heat it up on both sides for a long time, from what I understand you will not be using that thick acrylic and that makes it a lot easier.

Hehe, creativity at its best Once it became flexible, do you have plenty of time to make the bend before it cools down again?

 

[C4B12]

Hehe, creativity at its best Once it became flexible, do you have plenty of time to make the bend before it cools down again?

It depends on the thickness, but you have to be pretty quick about it. I had lots of tries before I got it right.

 

[FullForceRainbow]

But as it was 8mm thick acrylic I had to heat it up on both sides for a long time, from what I understand you will not be using that thick acrylic and that makes it a lot easier.

Thanks for the info! I'll only be using 3mm acrylic so hopefully that will make it easier... Now I just have to find a tube with the right radius.

 

[Phuncz]

The DIY market is excellent for that, plenty of choice in pipe diameters to "bend over".

 

[robbee]

Hey @FullForceRainbow , I have some more in depth info about bending the acrylic with a heat gun:

- If you use a mold, use something that doesn't deform too easily. I used a filled PVC tube and that didn't work out too wel. When I put too much weight on it, it deformed due to the heat.
- Bending without a mold went quite smoothly. Mark where the bend is supposed to begin and end, and have the right height offset by something (hard to explain, watch attached picture).
- Watch for stuff that can melt on your panel. The clamps I used, had plastic parts that melted a bit.
- 5mm acrylic does not require you to heat both sides.
- If something goes wrong a bit, it's easy to just heat the panel again and correct the mistake.

 

[FullForceRainbow]

@robbee

Thanks for the info! That panel is looking fantastic, and its a relief to know that you can always reheat it and bend it again if there is a problem.

I saw in your build thread that the panel stretched a bit due to the bending, is it noticeably thinner along the bend? I'm considering putting the holes in my side panel on the curve as well, but I don't want them to deform.

Thanks again!

 

[D_McG]

I saw in your build thread that the panel stretched a bit due to the bending, is it noticeably thinner along the bend? I'm considering putting the holes in my side panel on the curve as well, but I don't want them to deform.

Just like with bending sheet metal, there will be deformation of any holes or slots that are on or near the bend. There is both compression and tension of the material. This is why @robbee had extra material after bending. Unlike kerfing wood, where using the outside radius is correct, the bend allowance for a malleable material is neither the inside nor outside radius. I'm suspecting that the outside radius was used for the acrylic.

 

[robbee]

Just like with bending sheet metal, there will be deformation of any holes or slots that are on or near the bend. There is both compression and tension of the material. This is why @robbee had extra material after bending. Unlike kerfing wood, where using the outside radius is correct, the bend allowance for a malleable material is neither the inside nor outside radius. I'm suspecting that the outside radius was used for the acrylic.

Super usefull information!

@robbee
I saw in your build thread that the panel stretched a bit due to the bending, is it noticeably thinner along the bend? I'm considering putting the holes in my side panel on the curve as well, but I don't want them to deform.

It's not really noticable thinner. I wouldn't put holes in the bend though. The holes themselves won't just deform, the holes will also deform the bend.