Log "BR1KY the Brickless" - RTX 4060 & Ryzen 7 sub 1.3L build - aka "Project MULT1PL4"

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Shrink Ray Wielder
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It's been a while since my last fully custom 4L build, so here comes my next project: smaller than a "ROG NUC" but still pretty capable with an RTX 4060 GPU and Ryzen 7 CPU, plus internal 225W PSU...

20240806_124600.jpg

parts used:
  • AOSTAR GEM10 7840HS
  • MORNSUN LOF225 19V
  • ADT LINK PCIe 4.0 M.2 riser
  • DCDC200 19V to 12V buck converter
  • RTX 4060 (mobile) single slot low profile prototype
concept and dimensions:

Screenshot 2024-07-31 073223.jpg

Screenshot 2024-08-06 073328.jpg

the build:

first I installed the LOF225 at the bottom of my custom case, using standoffs and LEXAN FR700 for electrical insulation against the chassis

20240805_133323.jpg

the DCDC200 sits on top of the LOF225, again using electrical insulators - please note that using this kind of open frame ACDC PSUs can be very dangerous if you have no idea what you're doing!

20240805_153946.jpg

after the power stuff was wired together and properly insulated, I've installed the GEM10 board and M.2 riser - as you can see, the GEM10 has three M.2 slots plus one E-key slot for Wifi & Oculink - thats pretty cool for a 10x10 board with modern CPU

20240805_165249.jpg

last step: installing the RTX 4060 and taking some beauty shots :p

20240806_124600.jpg

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smitty2k1

King of Cable Management
Dec 3, 2016
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Wow!

Also that LOF PSU is neat, they have a 750w unit that fits in the 3"x5" (127 x 76 x 43 mm) footprint. Smaller than a FlexATX PSU.
 
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Sicaris

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Dec 6, 2016
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Is there a particular advantage to the mornsun LOF225 over similar Meanwell units or just a personal preference?
 

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Shrink Ray Wielder
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Is there a particular advantage to the mornsun LOF225 over similar Meanwell units or just a personal preference?

Meanwell didn't have a 19V version, plus I had coil whine issues with the RPS series before. This is my second MORNSUN unit and I'm quite happy with them.
 
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BaK

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May 17, 2016
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Yet another amazing and clean work, congrats! :thumb:
And cherry on top, brickless!

Some questions...
first I installed the LOF225 at the bottom of my custom case, using standoffs and LEXAN FR700 for electrical insulation against the chassis
I see nylon standoffs between the case and PSU, right? Why not using regular metal standoffs?
Did you keep it safe with standoffs height of 6mm or did you go smaller?

Is LEXAN FR700 better than mylar foil?


I dig the neat and small power button, for once something else than an anti vandal switch!
May I ask a link where to find/buy it?
Does it light up when the computer is running?


I thought that kind of C6 power connector were meant to be attach to the inside of the case, showing just the 'mickey mouse' socket in a nice rectangle to the outside.
How come you put it on the outside, no room left?
 
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Shrink Ray Wielder
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thanks! @BaK

I see nylon standoffs between the case and PSU, right? Why not using regular metal standoffs?
Did you keep it safe with standoffs height of 6mm or did you go smaller?

Is LEXAN FR700 better than mylar foil?


I dig the neat and small power button, for once something else than an anti vandal switch!
May I ask a link where to find/buy it?
Does it light up when the computer is running?


I thought that kind of C6 power connector were meant to be attach to the inside of the case, showing just the 'mickey mouse' socket in a nice rectangle to the outside.
How come you put it on the outside, no room left?

to keep it under 1.3L I had to use 4mm spacers below the PSU but had no suitable metal standoffs on hand

LEXAN insulators are more common in the PSU industry to insulate PCBs against the chassis. It's 1mm thick and has a higher breakdown voltage compared to Mylar foil - safety first, especially with the 4mm distance from the chassis

I was able to keep the original power button from the GEM10 - unfortunately it has a quite bright blue LED, still need to find a way to dim it a little bit

there are two types of C6 sockets, with and without threaded inserts to mount either inside or outside. I used one without threads and mounted it outside to keep some more distance from the DCDC board
 
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BaK

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May 17, 2016
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Thanks for the detailed answers!

to keep it under 1.3L I had to use 4mm spacers below the PSU but had no suitable metal standoffs on hand
I noticed they were short, every mm counts for us fellow sff lovers!
I guess then the grounding of the chassis is made somewhere else.

LEXAN insulators are more common in the PSU industry to insulate PCBs against the chassis. It's 1mm thick and has a higher breakdown voltage compared to Mylar foil - safety first, especially with the 4mm distance from the chassis
Ok, I want LEXAN now! XD
Struggling to find a reseller though, any clue / link for a non-taobao/alibaba user?
 

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Shrink Ray Wielder
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BaK

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May 17, 2016
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Are you OK with ordering from Germany?
Yes sure, thanks a lot for the link.
However Müller website is asking 25€ for shipping to Switzerland and 10€ for the work (Arbeitsaufwand).
More decent price at www.hood.de with 'only' 15€ for shipping.

But now that I know this material is also called Pertinax RI 40000, I will look again if I can find some here locally.
I'm looking for a thickness of 1mm also to go under an EOS ULP180-1012 PSU, attached on 5mm standoffs. Or 4mm now that you showed it's doable ;)
 

BaK

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May 17, 2016
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Pertinax is a totally different material, but also good for high voltage insulation purposes :)
Lol, I don't know at what point of my searches I came to the conclusion that Pertinax was the same as Lexan! XD

Well at least Pertinax will work, thanks for the confirmation, I will give it a try!
 
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