If I hear anything about shattered glass panels I only have one message for UPS:
I hope there are some Tarantino fans in here (@J3EBS)
I hope there are some Tarantino fans in here (@J3EBS)
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Just got mine yesterday. Overall I'm very pleased with the result, especially for a first attempt. The core could be tighter once locked, but I'll find a way to rectify that, nbd.
Though I'm wondering, is anyone else's glass not mounted tight into the panel frame? All three of mine are loose and jiggle around.
Though I'm wondering, is anyone else's glass not mounted tight into the panel frame? All three of mine are loose and jiggle around.
This is by design, we wanted to avoid too tight squeeze on the glass or it would 100% shatter in assembly (bending the aluminium glass frames apart vertically would make them bow inwards horizontally and make things go *clink*). Unfortunately the glass is merciless when it comes to sound, i.e. even 0.25 mm wiggle-room will make it rattle if you shake it. However, maybe we can work something out here, like an O-ring or something, if you guys have any ideas please let me know and we’ll make it happen
Also, interesting observation on the Core! Maybe it’s possible to add some sort of material to the small lock pin that locks it to the Shell. Right now it’s aluminium on aluminium (w. small tolerance gap to ensure it goes in). However, if we add a compressible material to the pin it may work to get a “tighter” lock on the Core & Shell. Right now, the core definitely won’t fall out because the lock knob is locked in tight (won’t just turn by itself), but there’s a small movement (0.25mm) once the Shell and Core are locked and you try to jank out the Core.
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@AlexTzone
Is this normal? The front panel doesn't jiggle at all on the other 3 sides, but this one really want to disco.
I will upload more pictures shortly, just got my case.
Is this normal? The front panel doesn't jiggle at all on the other 3 sides, but this one really want to disco.
I will upload more pictures shortly, just got my case.
T1:
Mjolnir:
T1 vs Mjolnir
Mjolnir:
T1 vs Mjolnir
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Simple solution:
- Untighten the screws that hold the front panel
- Slide the top / bottom grills more up / down respectively
- Tighten the screws again (not too much)
One more thing, my founder shield is loose. Any quickfix for this?Simple solution:
You can make it sit as rock solid as you like. Similar process for the Booster Cell. I'll upload a video
- Untighten the screws that hold the front panel
- Slide the top / bottom grills more up / down respectively
- Tighten the screws again (not too much)
Appreciate you taking the time to upload your pictures!
Just got my Mjolnir!! 
Gonna open her up now! Will report back soon!!
Gonna open her up now! Will report back soon!!
I got the Mjolnir R + 2x panel sets. I probably won't use the glass panels or the RGB, but I like having options. I haven't even started the build yet. I was intending to build my new workstation in this case, but then 2020 happened and I ended up doing a triple 240mm rad custom loop with a 5950X and 3090 in the NR200. I'm going to try to replicate something similarly nonsensical in this case but with smaller diameter tubes and less rad space. Might go with another 5950X, but tone the GPU down since that's where most of the heat comes from.
This makes complete sense, thanks for the explanation! I think gaskets would be a great idea. I'm a fan of high density foam and have used it in several projects, so something like that might work well if you lined the areas that contact the glass; it would compress when the glass is inserted to hold it in place safely and quietly.This is by design, we wanted to avoid too tight squeeze on the glass or it would 100% shatter in assembly (bending the aluminium glass frames apart vertically would make them bow inwards horizontally and make things go *clink*). Unfortunately the glass is merciless when it comes to sound, i.e. even 0.25 mm wiggle-room will make it rattle if you shake it. However, maybe we can work something out here, like an O-ring or something, if you guys have any ideas please let me know and we’ll make it happen
That could work. I was thinking something like a small nylon ramp/bump on the shell that the latch engages with as you turn it, but I'm not sure how well that would play with tolerances.
Hi Terry, please send us an email and we'll take a better look at this. I'm sure we can figure something out for you
Note: if anybody has similar concerns, emailing us is a lot better than posting here, it's easier to keep track & we don't have to go through the latest 10 pages on this thread to find all the info.
Alex, I am posting back here again because I sent an email using your site and have to get get a reply.
Yes it is possible. Its part of the manual...inside the manual you stop at step 2. (step 3 is for RGB)