Working with Acrylic and mounting?

fminus

Cable-Tie Ninja
Original poster
May 14, 2016
225
123
The front of my case is an 2mm aluminum panel with a usb port. I would like to mount a piece of acrylic in there that is flush with the front. (Similarly to what Streacom does with their IR ports).

What would be the best way to do this? Get a 3mm piece of acrylic in the dimensions of the USB port and wedge it in? Or in the same dimensions but 1mm wider, melt the edges, and wedge it in?
 

Ceros_X

King of Cable Management
Mar 8, 2016
748
660
I think maybe order the acrylic large than the hole, trace the hole out on the acrylic and then use a dremel or whatever to trim a bit of material off so that it fits flush against it. Use some epoxy to mount it to the aluminum.

If you don't care about it being exactly flush, order the acrylic 1 inch or so larger on every side and then use some double sided 3M 4010 Tape to mount that to the aluminum. This is what a lot of modders use to mount case windows - it is beastly or so I am told.
 

fminus

Cable-Tie Ninja
Original poster
May 14, 2016
225
123
Thank you. I planned on getting the acrylic laser cut to the proper dimensions.

I don't know if its possible to melt the edges and while it's warm push it in till cooled.
 

Sicaris

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Dec 6, 2016
115
69
I wouldn't recommend it, you won't get the nice finish you want. If you can get the laser cut piece to the right tolerance then great, otherwise get it oversize and sand the edges down gradually until it fits. Probably worth asking @robbee I think the lettering for Stoomdoos was inlaid cut acrylic.
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
862
1,354
Probably worth asking @robbee I think the lettering for Stoomdoos was inlaid cut acrylic.

Yes it was :)

I didn't really plan it though. Worth knowing when you're gonna laser it: the laser beam is about 0.2mm wide so you might want to expand the shape by 0.1mm to get the best result. My result was not nearly as nice as Streacom's though. I just hammered the letters in the cutout :p
 

fminus

Cable-Tie Ninja
Original poster
May 14, 2016
225
123
Thank you guys. I will probably get it cut a few mm larger then sand it down slowly till it fits.
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
862
1,354
Thank you guys. I will probably get it cut a few mm larger then sand it down slowly till it fits.

A word of advice: circular paths are very hard to keep in perfect shape when you sand them!
 

fminus

Cable-Tie Ninja
Original poster
May 14, 2016
225
123
@robbee I am hoping a light hand sanding will do the job. If not, ill cut it a bit larger and hammer it in. (Softly)
 

Josh | NFC

Not From Concentrate
NFC Systems
Jun 12, 2015
1,869
4,467
www.nfc-systems.com
This is something you should consider getting CNCd.

Laser/Waterjet/Plasma plastic tolerances won't be good for this type of thing. Laser especially will warp the material slightly and it will cut it at an angle.

I vote you get the exact dimensions and cut it out with a CNC router .5mm over, .2 over, .08 over and exact (this part is cheap) and see which fits best. You will have to lightly sand the tabs down but it will be very easy compared to the curves which will be extremely difficult.
 

fminus

Cable-Tie Ninja
Original poster
May 14, 2016
225
123
Hopped on a machining forum, and I got this reply:

Mill the acrylic with "step" and leave "step" inside equipment. Use step to glue or double-side-tape the acrylic to aluminium
Laser is not accurate enough. Press-fit will never hold or look clean.


visible side
------------ooooooo---------
--------ooooooooooo-------
inside

This seems like the best method, now just to find a person to do this for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Josh | NFC

iFreilicht

FlexATX Authority
Feb 28, 2015
3,243
2,361
freilite.com
Hopped on a machining forum, and I got this reply:

Mill the acrylic with "step" and leave "step" inside equipment. Use step to glue or double-side-tape the acrylic to aluminium
Laser is not accurate enough. Press-fit will never hold or look clean.


visible side
------------ooooooo---------
--------ooooooooooo-------
inside

This seems like the best method, now just to find a person to do this for me.

Yes, that's the way to do it. But you can also just make a 45° chamfer, that would be absolutely sufficient. That way it's very easy to machine and you can work out any kinks if needed by sanding, and gluing it in is also easier.