Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
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I had a cheaper ADATA one, and that sucker got HOT!!
I then later ripped a Samsung one out of a laptop, and it was cool as a cucumber.
In both cases I had the same data on both, and no heatsink. So completely depends on brand and usage I'd say.
Also depends on whether you have air flowing across it from case fans. On the back of a motherboard it might be advisable to go with a heatsink.
Do cases or motherboards usually come with mounting screws for the motherboard? I got the x570-I from Gigabyte and it didn’t come with any screws from what I can see. Does anybody know the standard size screw I should get to mount it?
Also, if anyone else has the gigabyte x570-I, does the M.2 drive under the chipset fan require a thermal pad? The motherboard directions say yes but if I put a pad on it looks like it will block the fan from the inside.
Also, if anyone else has the gigabyte x570-I, does the M.2 drive under the chipset fan require a thermal pad? The motherboard directions say yes but if I put a pad on it looks like it will block the fan from the inside.
No, they don't. I think they are usually included with the case, although I can't remember... I have a box with assorted computer screws and usually just have a bunch of them (Google/Wikipedia tells me it's #6-32 standoffs and screws) in there, along with a thousand other types of screws, nuts, washers, etc I can't identify
. I'm meaning to get one of the screws sets from Newegg or Amazon just so I can organize them all properly.And I think the pad goes underneath the M.2 drive? Not sure, I haven't actually assembled anything yet, though I'm probably going to start this afternoon.
It definitely shouldn't be going on the top half (containing the fan), though, not unless you're supposed to cut the pad.
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No, they don't. I think they are usually included with the case, although I can't remember... I have a box with assorted computer screws and usually just have a bunch of them (Google/Wikipedia tells me it's #6-32 standoffs and screws) in there, along with a thousand other types of screws, nuts, washers, etc I can't identify
Okay thank you! I saw #6-32 online as well but also saw some others, so I appreciate the clarification! Also, these cases are tiny!!! Definitely picked a tough one for my first build!
Edited my post to add bit about heatsink.
Also, pro tip (okay, maybe I'm not a pro, but done enough stupid things in enough builds to have some advice
): the smaller the build, the more it helps to put together as much as possible outside of the case first, and then transfer the components in. Meaning mount and secure the CPU (with thermal paste applied after, of course), mount heatsink or CPU block (may need to have the rad resting on a box or something close by so you don't drag the rad or kink the tubes) on CPU, install RAM, position the motherboard close to the case to connect the front panel connectors (and any other cables - like CPU power/EPS - that may be tricky to connect afterward; handy to have the manual open to front panel section during this step, because you may need both hands to hold the mobo and connect the wires), then completely transfer the mobo into the case and onto the standoffs and screw down. After that install the case fans/radiator, PSU and cables, GPU, etc. Kind of a common sense thing you might already be aware of, and you may need to change the order around depending on clearances and access and such (e.g. may need to install RAM first), but a rule of thumb just in case it hasn't occurred to you .Also helps to do as much of the build outside of the case for testing purposes, because the worst thing is having to disassemble the whole lot once you discover something isn't working, and you aren't sure which thing it is. Taking open-air temps is also good for diagnostic purposes, and not something you really want to go back and do later once the build is finished.
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Thanks for the advice count! I learned quickly that the mobo wouldn’t go in if I had the PSU installed. I’m waiting on an AIO but was planning on using the supplied wraith prism until then and leaving the side panel off. That was a disaster to say the least. It comes with a mounting system that uses the metal tabs hanging down, and it was a real PITA to get right. From the videos I saw online it looks like a stupid system anyway because you have to angle the cooler to engage the first tab which means when you set it down to latch the other side it kind of squeezes the thermal paste in that direction and makes a mess of things. I’ll definitely try to put stuff together outside the case first. Got an alphacool Eisbaer LT240 which I plan on expanding to a full loop with a GPU pump/block and 92mm rad in the bottom. I actually got the LT240 for the same price total it would’ve been to just buy and ship the LT (solo) pump/block itself. Hoping it all works out. Build will have a 3700X and 2080 Super. Been gaming on a mid level 2014 laptop, so I’m excited for the final product. You guys have been a fantastic help, so thank you!
All the screws etc for mounting come with the case. That does not mean long screws for aio mounting etc though. That should come with the aio hardware.
In case some of you are not real familiar with Ryzen, make DAMN SURE you are careful when removing a heat sink from the cpu. All of mine pretty much pull the cpu out of socket when I remove it after it has sat for a bit installed. Make sure you don't bend the cpu pins. You can try to mini rotate the cooler left and right to try to get it loose but be careful.
Also, the stock cooler mounting on am4 is a pita as well.
So much this. With Intel's LGA sockets (and AMD sTR4) you have to baby the socket to avoid breaking or bending pins (rather nightmarish if you do... had to scrap a board before
), but with AMD PGA you have to be careful about how you drop in the CPU (straight and gentle drop in after proper orientation) and how you remove heatsink. Thermal paste can turn into cement as far as the heatsink and CPU adhesion goes; only safe to attempt to remove the heatsink after you've carefully released and lifted the duo from the socket. Ideally, you want to minimize the amount of times you install or remove the heatsink, and treat it like surgery whenever you do.It was easier to fix a bent pin back when pin density was lower, but still not something you wanted to happen.
Well I’m definitely an idiot. I set all the Sliger stuff to the side and forgot about it... the screws were in there. The Gigabyte board is a tough squeeze, but it makes it in there. Only slightly annoying thing is that the board and I/O shield are upside down given that the board mounts to the right side of the case when looking at it from the side. The markings on the shield and the asus logo on the chipset fan are upside down, but I’m okay with that.
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The most challenging build I've ever done. Custom pslate cables on the way.
The most challenging build I've ever done. Custom pslate cables on the way.
Looks exactly like what I’m going for! Did you just use a fan splitter and connect all your fans to the one header? I think thought there were two headers on the Gigabyte but one of them must be used for the chipset fan. As of now I’m going to see if the 240 can cool both the cpu and gpu, but I was thinking about expanding to a 92mm under the PSU if it can’t. Just don’t know how I can control three 120mm fans and one 92mm fan off one header efficiently...
The 2 bottom fans are used via Y-splitter and plugged into system fan header.
The 2 top fans and pump are connected via 3-way fan splitter into CPU fan header.
The chipset fan has its dedicated slot right below the tiny fan.
Y-splitters, basic fan hubs, or fancier hubs such as NZXT Grid or Corsair Commander Pro.
@HyGRADE_HyDRO Here's my cables.
Cables
I left the 24 pin in the PSU after testing it. Such a pain to get in. Two pcie on the right and the CPU cable on the left.
Cables
I left the 24 pin in the PSU after testing it. Such a pain to get in. Two pcie on the right and the CPU cable on the left.
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