No issues closing the case, had to shorten the tubing run from res to cpu from what is shown in the pictures but all panels line up flush with no bulges. The top panel does not close all the way as the 420mm rad is too tall to allow the power cable to fit through the passthrough. I have not tried the ek pump yet, the Bitspower D5 RGB top will allow the Bitspower Multi-Z 40mm Reservoir to thread directly on and is the smallest D5 pump/res combo out there and should fit no problem, I just haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Tubing goes from Pump >GPU>Rad>CPU>Res. I couldn't tell you what water outlet order is preferable.
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Production Sliger SV590 and SV540 - Vertical SFF Cases!
- Thread starter KSliger
- Start date
So after reading this comment, I went back to have CPU fan (Noctua A9x14 HS-PWM Chromax) blow toward the heatsink and have all 3 Arctic P12 fans have it exhausted.
This way, able to hit 65C CPU / 42-44C GPU (RTX 2080 w/ Arctic Accelero III + 2 A12x15 Chromemax) when playing MHW:I compare to previous setup hitting 75C CPU / 45C GPU and loud CPU fan noise. This further reduces the noise and no turbulence issue I used to see using the stock fan of AXP-90 as well.
Thanks for your feedback. Could you please give us an update as soon as you installed the Bitspower D5 RGB top with Reservoir? Maybe the 80mm Reservoir will fit too :-). Which D5 did you buy - a PWM version to control it via the mainboard?
So in my setup, I have about 160mm of length, 70mm of width, and 130mm of height to put a pump and res in. Width is obviously the most limiting factor. The D5 pump is about 30mm long, and the pump top is 70mm in length and width, and 49mm in height. Combine that with an 80mm Res and youre cutting it close, gonna have a hard time positioning your fittings, at least in my build. i'm going with the 40mm res just so I can have a little bit more space to work. I used an Ek PWM pump, because it was easily available on amazon, although the vario pumps would be better as you can just set the speed and forget it and less cable clutter. The EK does have sleeved cables for what its worth.
Make sure if you go the bitspower route to get the RGB top, it's the only one that will allow the Bitspower Multi-z tanks to thread directly on. Otherwise you can attach the Multi-z take to the pump top with a male-to-male adaptor, but it looks ugly, adds another point of failure/leak, and makes the overall assembly longer.
The graphics card isn’t a big problem, the main issue is the width from the case wall to the power supply. You really only have about 70mm of space there. Most graphics cards aren’t that long with a water block on them. Maybe the custom pcb cards are but I’m just using a reference pcb.
@Bigtruckboom
In which way did you secure the Corsair 420mm radiator? Maybe you have some pics?
Thanks.
In which way did you secure the Corsair 420mm radiator? Maybe you have some pics?
Thanks.
I used double sided tape and foam along the sides to wedge it into place. There are also 140mm to 120mm fam mount adaptors made of plastic that might work
Why you didn't install the fan/rad as intake? You will have more space for cables (top) and maybe better temps. Is it due to dust?
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I'm not following you. My rad is mounted as intake, the fans pull air from outside through the rad into the case. The fans I'm using (EK Vardar 140mm EVO) perform slightly better in pull according to the manufacturer. I'm thinking about running the rad as an exhaust and seeing how it performs.Why you didn't install the fan/rad as intake? You will have more space for cables (top) and maybe better temps. Is it due to dust?
I thought the optimal configuration for sv590 is for the Rad Fans to exhaust air out of the case and let the air be sucked in from the side panel? That's what I'm doing.
This is correct - if the fans blow into the case they can cause problems with the PSU and GPU cooling.
If you're on a custom loop the GPU doesn't matter, but I'd be wary of torturing your PSU with high temps.
I'd also recommend putting the PSU fan towards the inside of the case to pull air from behind the GPU - made a few degrees GPU temperature improvement in my testing.
Waiting on news out of China on PCIe risers and power switches.
Honestly looks like they went back into lock down as I haven't heard anything today, cannot contact any of our vendors.
Might not be good.
If they do drag this lock down out we will probably go on backorder for existing cases, and put up a bunch of new preorder cases.
Have another 2-3 weeks before we have to start thinking more seriously about that.
Without getting too technical, no you should not have any issues or signal degradation.
The only thing you could do wrong is if you have a higher gain (8dBi+) antenna that can be bent over and you fold it over so that your wireless AP or Keyboard/Gamepad are in the vertical dead zones. Best to go with a low gain (2-4dBi) stub antenna if you're in a smaller apartment, or an externally mounted mid gain (5-6dBi) if your AP is really far away such as a larger house or office.
Either of these should be viable work around at 2.4GHz if you want to play it safe, these look like best value on Amazon for respective purpose:
Watching the new NZXT review I realized i have the same problem with the GPU where the front panel is kinda hot after a few hours of gaming, is that normal? GPU temp is around 70 celsius while cpu is at 60-65
@KSliger
I have some trouble with the SV590 case - especially with the paintwork: the paintwork is bad on several sides (always in the lower area. I already sent a mail last week to the Sliger support - since today no feedback. So I sent a second mail today... Maybe you can assist me? The case is not really cheap and the quality has to be good.
Here are some pics:
I have some trouble with the SV590 case - especially with the paintwork: the paintwork is bad on several sides (always in the lower area. I already sent a mail last week to the Sliger support - since today no feedback. So I sent a second mail today... Maybe you can assist me? The case is not really cheap and the quality has to be good.
Here are some pics:
@KSliger
I have some trouble with the SV590 case - especially with the paintwork: the paintwork is bad on several sides (always in the lower area. I already sent a mail last week to the Sliger support - since today no feedback. So I sent a second mail today... Maybe you can assist me? The case is not really cheap and the quality has to be good.
Here are some pics:
Sorry on no response yet, we are perpetually buried on emails.
Few posts of mine back I put that if anyone isn't happy with their rust we will replace it, as I was concerned about a few of these.
Reach out to me, ksliger@sliger.com, and I will send you a new panel set in rust with better bottom ends, or in any other color + $50 refund.
We had a few of these where the rust ran down the case panels during the bake cycle and resulted in these odd bottom ends, this one is certainly one of the worse ones. Picture IMG-3863 should not have passed QC at all - those with bubbles were supposed to not get clear coated but might have bubbled when the clear coat was baked.
Very sorry on the problems, will get it fixed for you!
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