One of the more challenging SFF builds I've done in terms of having to plan everything out, but the payoff is real! The SM560 is a beast and semi-passive cooling with the Shadow Rock LP is working well enough for me to keep using it. Love the setup!
Production Sliger SM550/560/570/580 (2 and 3 slot riser layouts, with air and liquid cooling variants)
- Thread starter KSliger
- Start date
Ordered a SM580 and just want some confirmation. I was hoping to install the 240mm Deepcool CASTLE 240EX WHITE but it looks like the Pump height is too high for it to fit. According to sliger's site the maximum height for tall cpu cooler is 55mm. Looking at the specs of the Castle 240ex the maximum height of the pump is 71mm.... I am safe to assume that the side panel will not close with this AIO's pumps height correct?
You understand correctly, the side panel will not close with the Deepcool Castle pump. I'd also warn you away from the Arctic Liquid Freezr and EVGA CLC AIOs since having the cooling line exit perpendicular to the pump/coldplate also makes it tough to close the panel. I was able to make a CLC280 fit with some tight bends, but there is some unfortunate vibration from the pump transmitted through the cooling lines which ended up lying against my CPU side panel.
Thank you for the confirmation.. I'm not an RGB person but I liked the aesthetics of this AIO and the fact that you can put your own logo on the pump, I was also trying to go for a black/white build. The performance is up there as well.... Oh well it looks like the white corsair H110i @ 240mm will fit with no issues..
side note: i just made a build with the Artic liquid freezer II, great AIO, but the lines are definitely super stiff to move. I wasn't doing a SFF build so it turn out alright.. lol
Yeah, its a great cooler with surprisingly quiet fans, but I sold mine to a buddy along with a Meshify C for the same reason during my downsizing of that particular build.
Speaking of AIOs:
I for one welcome our new Nyancat overlords.
I for one welcome our new Nyancat overlords.
Hey guys
I just purchased a Sm570, super excited about it as it will be my first build! (Was using gaming laptop most of the time)
I’m planning on running a 3950x and a EVGA xc 2080 super on It.The cpu cooler I choose is the h100i pro aio with Noctua fans swap.(don’t wanna involve into custom looping hassle for the first time build lol), just wanna ask what is the ideal fan Config if 4 fans are all installed in this configuration? Should they all be exhaust? And should the radiator fan be pulling or pushing ? Thanks in advance!
I just purchased a Sm570, super excited about it as it will be my first build! (Was using gaming laptop most of the time)
I’m planning on running a 3950x and a EVGA xc 2080 super on It.The cpu cooler I choose is the h100i pro aio with Noctua fans swap.(don’t wanna involve into custom looping hassle for the first time build lol), just wanna ask what is the ideal fan Config if 4 fans are all installed in this configuration? Should they all be exhaust? And should the radiator fan be pulling or pushing ? Thanks in advance!
Does anyone know of a shorter C14 to C13 power cable? I have the original cable with the standard flush mount but would like to eliminate some of the excess cable from inside the case without having to resort to going the "pigtail" route.
Edit: case is SM580
Edit: case is SM580
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Got my SM580 delivered by DHL yesterday. First impressions of the case are great, though the real test will be building my very first PC over the weekend!
Also very happy with the service from European reseller Density. Whomever is manning their Facebook chat really went out of their way to answer all my stupid questions. Pricing from Density also ended up cheaper than paying for shipping directly from the US and VAT on arrival. Can highly recommend checking them out if interested in Sliger's cases and located in Europe.
Also very happy with the service from European reseller Density. Whomever is manning their Facebook chat really went out of their way to answer all my stupid questions. Pricing from Density also ended up cheaper than paying for shipping directly from the US and VAT on arrival. Can highly recommend checking them out if interested in Sliger's cases and located in Europe.
No idea if shorter cables can be found, but you can definitely get chassis mount C14 connectors with soldering terminals and make your own perfectly sized cable. Personally I will probably have to go with the pigtail back plate due to a taller graphics card but rather than an external C14 connector will go with a longer cable directly to a standard power plug.
L
LordEconomist
Guest
Hi everyone,
Was on the Sliger Site today and was looking at the SM560 - There doesnt seem to be an option to have a case without USB anymore though the bigger cases stiill have that option.
Is it possible to get a SM560 without USB panel?
Was on the Sliger Site today and was looking at the SM560 - There doesnt seem to be an option to have a case without USB anymore though the bigger cases stiill have that option.
Is it possible to get a SM560 without USB panel?
Anyone else having issues with screws used by Sliger? Was going to start putting parts into my brand new SM590 yesterday but one of the top panel screws is refusing to budge. There is now nothing left of the crosshead and the screw still appears nearly glued in place.
@KSliger any ideas on how to remove this screw without damaging anything else? If I drill it out, there is bound to be damage to the threads of the main chassis. Cutting a new slot for a flathead screwdriver seems my best bet at this time, but due to the tiny size of the screw this will definitely damage the top panel.
Very disappointed in the poor quality soft metal screws when the rest of the chassis seems so well made. Guess I now know why there seemed to be so many spare screws included…
@KSliger any ideas on how to remove this screw without damaging anything else? If I drill it out, there is bound to be damage to the threads of the main chassis. Cutting a new slot for a flathead screwdriver seems my best bet at this time, but due to the tiny size of the screw this will definitely damage the top panel.
Very disappointed in the poor quality soft metal screws when the rest of the chassis seems so well made. Guess I now know why there seemed to be so many spare screws included…
Weird, that option was available to me back in late November (and I picked it).
Can you send us a picture?
Worst case we will send you a replacement part.
We took it off as an option to free up shelf space in our warehouse. Impossibly expensive to get any more room in our city, so have to maximize space we have.
Either way, please email us, we might have a few no cutout chassis in stock.
I also probably need to bring the no-cutout option back - as China is not returning to work today as was advised.
Which brings me too...
CORONAVIRUS UPDATES
The factory that make the PCIe risers is closed down until late March / Early April, so we are looking into alternatives. If you go buy a case and it has a different PCIe riser don't be surprised. We are not trying to bamboozle you.
USB/Audio front panel board and cable vendors have not responded for ETA on when they are going to open, this is probably going to be our biggest issue. Will likely launch Console/Conswole without FPIO options for now.
Power switch vendor says he will let me know on when he can return. We have an alternate vendor in Taiwan already producing more switches.
All metal,powder coating, and acrylic is done here in the US. Packaging is also made locally.
Dropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life
It's not pretty. After the head was already beyond providing any grip to a PH1 screwdriver I tried various other bits. Though many of them did grip, all I got for my efforts was metal fragments and a pit that grew ever larger. Either someone at the factory accidentally torqued this down WAY beyond spec or there is some contaminant acting as a threadlocker?!
Ordered a screw removing kit from Amazon UK on recommendation from Density (whom I ordered the chassis through). Hopefully it saves my day, if not cutting a new slot for a flat head screwdriver is probably my next best bet. Will definitely result in some paint damage at a minimum but at least should only affect the top chassis panel and not the thread in the larger main part…
What length of screws do I need to use to setup an H100i in a pull setup (fans sandwiched between the rad and top of the SM570) with the rubber grommets installed on both sides of the fans? I found that the included screws in the H100i AIO kit are not enough unless you force them through which just destroys the threads in the rad.
The included screws are probably UNC#6-32 x 30mm. You could try 35mm screws but those might be too long. You can fix that my using some washers as spacers (I recommend using M4 washers) or try a 1 1/4 inch (31.75mm) screw
I am new here and would like to build a Mini-ITX PC.
Parts:
- Sliger SM580
- Asus ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
- AMD Ryzen 3900X
- G.Skill Trident Z Neo DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39 (F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC)
- Corsair SF-750W
- Kraken Z63 AIO - 280mm
- Seagate FireCuda 520 SSD ZP2000GM3A002 2 TB M.2 (2280) SSD
- EVGA RTX 2080 TI FTW3
I ordered an SM580 a week ago (density.sk) - I hope that it won't take that long for the delivery.
Regarding cooling CPU: I ordered a Kraken Z63 - is it useful to change the fans with Noctua's? Maybe someone has experience with a Kraken X62 with Noctua's / stock fans?
Parts:
- Sliger SM580
- Asus ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
- AMD Ryzen 3900X
- G.Skill Trident Z Neo DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR4-3600, CL16-19-19-39 (F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC)
- Corsair SF-750W
- Kraken Z63 AIO - 280mm
- Seagate FireCuda 520 SSD ZP2000GM3A002 2 TB M.2 (2280) SSD
- EVGA RTX 2080 TI FTW3
I ordered an SM580 a week ago (density.sk) - I hope that it won't take that long for the delivery.
Regarding cooling CPU: I ordered a Kraken Z63 - is it useful to change the fans with Noctua's? Maybe someone has experience with a Kraken X62 with Noctua's / stock fans?
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