BTW, this was done without changing any fan or pump curves so the system ran way quieter in the faster cooler test too.
Time Spy Tests - GPU average temp dropped from 87 degrees to 56 degrees CPU average temp dropped from 60 degrees to 50 degrees.
The only changes between these two tests were that I changed the flow of the coolant to flow through the proper inlet in the GPU block and I changed the rear fans from intake to exhaust.
When I did web searches I found that even EK said that the flow through the GPU block didn't matter. It absolutely does in my system.
I am now running 280mm front rad with 2 27mm thick 140mm fans as intake. 240mm rear rad with 2 15mm thick 120mm fans as exhaust & I have a 92mm thin fan on the back side of the motherboard attached to the vented panel as exhaust as well.
I had a lot of headaches getting to this, so I thought I would share, in case anyone else is running into similar issues.
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- Thread starter TaylorChiller
- Start date
Mine's pulling air as intake, dual 140mm, 30mm thick rads. there's basically no clearance for the slim fan and it's getting pushed in a little by the core assembly.
If I add washers to the bottom to prevent blades from hitting the rad, the fan gets pushed against the core assembly even more, so it's ended up kinda moot.
I thought I had initially solved the problem by using washers, but it appears that fully screwing on the fan/rad plates makes the fan push against the core assembly even more. I had the plates held down by only 2 screws at opposite corners.
With my radiator config, it looks like there isn't any way I can throw in a 120+adapter as the total height would be way more than 15mm, unless I'm mistaken.
Well, good news, because if you actually get 15mm fans, it should work, as the Arctic's are really 18mm in height. I think the adapter probably adds 1-2mm. You'll probably have to cut the screw mounts down on the adapter plate, though.
Noctua's fan adapter adds very little to the thickness. And it worked really well for my testing with noctua's slim 120 fan.
I still havent had any more problems with my slim arctic 140s since I gave it that really hard smack on its center. They must have a huge amount of variation between samples. As if silicon lottery wasnt enough to deal with, now its fan lottery. Give it a few good hits and maybe even bend it some to see if you can get it working. I wouldnt suggest this again if it hadnt of worked for me.
Heyo! Just an update as I was able to get some stress testing done. Numbers pretty much match up to HaulinHP's numbers and super impressed with the cooling in this case. Even with the DC-LT's, I managed to get these temps with Time Spy and coolant temp never got above 39C. Day to day use sits at 29C
GPU avg 52C
CPU avg 50C
Also, fun fact but I thought I'd hate the weird bar feet thingy for the case, but it turns out that they're way better and stable for angling over desk edges.
GPU avg 52C
CPU avg 50C
Also, fun fact but I thought I'd hate the weird bar feet thingy for the case, but it turns out that they're way better and stable for angling over desk edges.
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Sorry if this has been asked to death but is there going to be another drop of this case? Missed my chance and super interested in grabbing one
Hey,
We are planning one. As for timeline it is going to be different than the first one because we have design changes we want to make to improve some findings we gathered from the first preorders.
Since this is a regular topic, I'd like to mention that we are focused on making these updates friendly to the first design's architecture. Basically, those that have fist gen cases would be able to order new internal assembly packages so they can upgrade their case without having to purchase a whole new one.
Taylor
Could you show us the improvement ideas that you have so far? I forgot to give my 2 cents but didn't want to repeat. Thanks!
Cable lengths for the slate case are very dependent on the type of psu used (sfx or sfx-l), the orientation of the psu, your preference in routing of the 8 pin cpu and pcie 8 pin cables, and location of your mobo's 8 pin cpu connector. It's not really a one size fits all. There are several different options all with different lengths. I'd suggest getting a piece of string and cutting it to the length you want your cables to be and then measuring it. That's what I did.
Thanks for the advice. When you used the string, did you use the exact length measured, or did you include a little extra slack? Not sure if Ray's cable lengths include the connectors as part of the measurements.
I was hoping to get a jump on ordering the cables (due to Ray's lead time), and now the wait for the Silverstone 850R Extreme to get back in stock. Already read earlier in this thread that the provided cables need to be replaced due to their rigidity.
I added some slack for the curves/bends and added the connector length to the string length.
@TaylorChiller Having received the case, here are some of my observations reverse engineering it (ps. I like to make 3d models of the things I own - if you have one I would love to have it !!)
- Simple mechanics: A lot of times industrial designers overcomplicate things like how things mount to each other. Louqe is an example of this. Their case requires a tongue for the side panel to slide in. This tongue has 3 faces and is VERY intolerant to manufacturing inaccuracies. In addition, you can't even remove the side panels on the ghost s1 without removing top and bottom panels. Your case is mostly surface mount (face-on-face) mounting, independent parts for removal, which is AMAZING. The way the side and top/bottom panels snap to the case is excellent.
- Highly modular: I enjoy the T-slot-like rails on each front and back gable. Really mod friendly and opens up the case to aftermarket or 3D-printed internals. In cases like FormD and Louqe, the internal layout is pretty much set in stone, but with your T-slot-like rails + sheet metal interior, it's really easy to mod or make new components that fit anywhere. I also really like using the top/bottom internal sheet metal pieces + front/back gables to create the case structure, leaving the internals to support ONLY the boards. This is great because it gives a lot of flexibility to how the internals can be like, leaving case structure to other parts.
- Tolerances + Manufacturing: Every gap is 0.25mm, almost exact! Perfectly done. Measurements are mostly multiples of 0.25mm (not random units like 0.85~) which is great.
- Constructive Criticisms: I think the bends on the front and back gables can use some work. I'm talking about the rounded corners of the case. I'm not sure if these pieces are extruded aluminum or mechanically bent. It appears they are bent and because of this, the internal radius does not follow the exterior, and there is some bulging on the ends of this piece. This also correlates to the radius not following the top and bottom panels.
In all, love the case, some slight imperfections but in all, great design and execution. I firmly believe that I can tell the design language of people by analyzing their measurements, how they deal with tolerances, and mechanical thinking. Your approach is very solid and a lot of thought was put into it. Great work!!
- Simple mechanics: A lot of times industrial designers overcomplicate things like how things mount to each other. Louqe is an example of this. Their case requires a tongue for the side panel to slide in. This tongue has 3 faces and is VERY intolerant to manufacturing inaccuracies. In addition, you can't even remove the side panels on the ghost s1 without removing top and bottom panels. Your case is mostly surface mount (face-on-face) mounting, independent parts for removal, which is AMAZING. The way the side and top/bottom panels snap to the case is excellent.
- Highly modular: I enjoy the T-slot-like rails on each front and back gable. Really mod friendly and opens up the case to aftermarket or 3D-printed internals. In cases like FormD and Louqe, the internal layout is pretty much set in stone, but with your T-slot-like rails + sheet metal interior, it's really easy to mod or make new components that fit anywhere. I also really like using the top/bottom internal sheet metal pieces + front/back gables to create the case structure, leaving the internals to support ONLY the boards. This is great because it gives a lot of flexibility to how the internals can be like, leaving case structure to other parts.
- Tolerances + Manufacturing: Every gap is 0.25mm, almost exact! Perfectly done. Measurements are mostly multiples of 0.25mm (not random units like 0.85~) which is great.
- Constructive Criticisms: I think the bends on the front and back gables can use some work. I'm talking about the rounded corners of the case. I'm not sure if these pieces are extruded aluminum or mechanically bent. It appears they are bent and because of this, the internal radius does not follow the exterior, and there is some bulging on the ends of this piece. This also correlates to the radius not following the top and bottom panels.
In all, love the case, some slight imperfections but in all, great design and execution. I firmly believe that I can tell the design language of people by analyzing their measurements, how they deal with tolerances, and mechanical thinking. Your approach is very solid and a lot of thought was put into it. Great work!!
Well, you guys bought up all the 280mm STE20s in this hemisphere 
Has anyone here done or planned a 280 + 140/120 loop like Taylor's friend did with their early prototype? It seems like one can squeeze in more radiator thickness if they omit a full radiator on the back side which leaves room for the core assembly to slide further back without the PCI-E bracket hitting anything (i.e. this photo from their build)
Has anyone here done or planned a 280 + 140/120 loop like Taylor's friend did with their early prototype? It seems like one can squeeze in more radiator thickness if they omit a full radiator on the back side which leaves room for the core assembly to slide further back without the PCI-E bracket hitting anything (i.e. this photo from their build)
I was actually able to fit my 280 and 120 in mine.Well, you guys bought up all the 280mm STE20s in this hemisphere
Has anyone here done or planned a 280 + 140/120 loop like Taylor's friend did with their early prototype? It seems like one can squeeze in more radiator thickness if they omit a full radiator on the back side which leaves room for the core assembly to slide further back without the PCI-E bracket hitting anything (i.e. this photo from their build)
Ah missed your build, that's looking good! I assume the DDC is handling that restrictive rad without too much noise?
No way! They're sold out? Feel like there's a shortage of everything these days.Well, you guys bought up all the 280mm STE20s in this hemisphere
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