Completed SLATE-CASE AQ >>Status Update - Finalizing Order Fulfillments!

Baka

Average Stuffer
Aug 5, 2022
57
99
Would you recommend going with a slim rad + 2 slim fans over a slim rad with 2 25mm fans or 1slim + 1 25mm?
You're going to need custom cables to fit 2 slims and 2 regular size fans. I eyeballed and used Dan A4-H20 lengths which are a few mm longer than i need them to be but i think i can zip tie them down so they don't hit the blades. But here's what my WIP looks like so far.

 

EnigmicAzn

Efficiency Noob
Dec 27, 2022
6
8
Is there any taller feet like the one included that you would recommend Taylor? or even 4 separate ones instead of two wide ones. I have some products I'm already looking at but I'm sure you've looked at far more while you were developing the case.
 
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TaylorChiller

Super Magical Detailer
Original poster
Oct 10, 2019
284
872
Is there any taller feet like the one included that you would recommend Taylor? or even 4 separate ones instead of two wide ones. I have some products I'm already looking at but I'm sure you've looked at far more while you were developing the case.
In the black parts box included should be 4 single feet you can use, but they are the same height. If you want a good resource for alternative feet Mcmaster Carr is a great place to find all kinds of hardware and parts:

https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-bumpers/mount-type~adhesive/

Should be able to find something there. I wouldn't go any softer that 50A Durometer.

Taylor
 
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namnnumbr

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Mar 8, 2019
3
10
After 3 or 4 test builds (while waiting on parts), I think I'm finally done:


Build notes / Commentary:

This was the only case I was able to find (at time of purchase) that is capable of using 2 x 280mm radiators with fans. I'm very happy with the cooling capacity this allows, and vertical design means this case has a relatively small desk footprint (it's actually smaller than my prior xtia xproto with all of the watercooling accessories).

The finish of the case as received was excellent, though I've managed to ding it up in the build process and especially while bleeding, but the scratches kind of add character / weathering -- I kind of like how it's "breaking in".

The hardest part of this build was dealing with the 3090 - I found it to be unstable without the active backplate, but the EKQB blocks with active backplates add a LOT of chonk to an already chonky PCB. The original EKWB Vector Active Backplate (from 2 years ago) just barely fit because it requires an inlet/outlet on top and bottom of the terminal block. The new Vector2 backplate conveniently is designed to allow inlet/outlet on the same side, but the block is HUGE. It's extra-wide because 3090 + fancy cross-flow terminal block, and it's stupidly tall because EKWB likes chonk. It would not fit in the case unless I removed the RGB module, which is fine, because I don't like RGB (don't @ me).

Sadly, the width of the GPU water block prevents me from mounting the pump/res combo on the "floor" of the GPU compartment, so it's mounted high and horizontal over the GPU. Which means it's essentially the highest point in the loop, so I'll have to be very careful about continually topping the loop off as I bleed it so the pump stays hydrated.

On the theme of EKWB liking chonk -- I previously used their Quantum Torque fittings and adapters, which are very nice, but quite large. In a case this compact, I found them to be too large (both physically and aesthetically). I also really like the aesthetic of the Alphacool TPV stuff (seems more designed for industrial/server stuff), so I decided to give that a go and am very happy with this choice.

Having the front and back panels screw off for radiator mounting is excellent... until it's not. It's very difficult to manage order-of-operations for pulling panels, mounting fans/rads, running header cables), while also having the core out to mount components, while also trying to manage cables and run as much as possible under the motherboard, and also planning the cooling loop. Here is what I found worked best for me:
  1. Pull the front panel and mount the rads and fans first and manage as much of the fan cabling as possible. Reinstall.
  2. Pull the back panel and mount the rads and fans first and manage as much of the fan cabling as possible.
  3. Mount components to the core except for the motherboard (which goes in last).
  4. Slide the core in and reinstall the back panel was off.
  5. Manage cables under the motherboard, install all components on the motherboard, and install the motherboard.
  6. Complete the loop.

With all fans set as exhaust, temps are pretty good. I set a fan curve in the BIOS based on a water temperature sensor, with low fan speeds until water temps hit 40 and then rising fairly rapidly. This leads the build to be inaudible while idling/browsing the internet (fans at 850 rpm), with moderate fan noise (fans at 1200-1400 rpm) under load. Fans never hit 100%, even while stress testing. It's often >76F in my office, so folks with lower ambient temperatures would probably have an even better time.

Critiques:
  • At multiple points in the build, I wished that the case interior was a few mm larger, but I think most of that is my fault due to parts selection. If I had used a smaller card/waterblock, I'd probably have a better time. And, while I'd like the case to fit more components more easily, I don't actually want it's dimensions to grow, so... 🤷‍♂️
  • I don't know if my particular chassis isn't square, if I warped things, or if I'm incapable, but I had a horrible amount of trouble with the rail system. No matter what I did, I could not get the core to slide smoothly, and generally had to retry and retry and retry and/or hammer on things until the core slid (in either direction). I would love to see this improved somehow if there is a V2.
  • I wish the thumbnuts were captive. I've completely lost 2 thumbnuts and all of the plastic washers, and thought I'd lost even more over the course of the build process due to them suddenly dropping off the bolt while I was struggling with sliding the core.
  • The motherboard screws are only minimally magnetic, leading to some exciting adventures when I dropped a screw while installing the motherboard into an otherwise completely built chassis.

Parts list:
  • Ryzen 5900x w/ Optimus CPU block
  • PNY 3090 w/ EKWB Quantum Vector2 GPU block + active backplate
  • EKWB DDC with Barrow mini-reservoir
  • Alphacool NexXxos ST30 w/ 2 Thermaltake Toughfan 140mm fans
  • Alphacool NexXxos ST20 w/ 2 Arctic 140mm slim fans
  • Alphacool TPV tubes
  • 9 Alphacool TPV 90 deg fittings
  • 1 Alphacool TPV metal fitting
  • 1 Alphacool ES Quick Release Connector Kit TPV Pushin (Industry Version)
  • 1 each M/F Koolance QD3 QDC for optional external rad
 

N9neBreak3r

Airflow Optimizer
Jul 17, 2020
349
468
I don't know if my particular chassis isn't square, if I warped things, or if I'm incapable, but I had a horrible amount of trouble with the rail system. No matter what I did, I could not get the core to slide smoothly, and generally had to retry and retry and retry and/or hammer on things until the core slid (in either direction). I would love to see this improved somehow if there is a V2.
I 100% agree and had the same problem. I had to go from one rail to the next, one at a time, dropping/lifting each by a small amount, to get the core to move. I love the idea of the rail system and the ability to choose your core position and lock it in. I just wish the rails were easier to work mechanically.
 

EnigmicAzn

Efficiency Noob
Dec 27, 2022
6
8
I have those small nub wifi antennas, does anybody using similar feel like the wifi signal lags a bit since the IO is on the bottom surrounded by the chassis? Might switch to one of those shark fin or cabled external ones later to see.
 

NRG

Airflow Optimizer
Oct 30, 2015
289
359
I 100% agree and had the same problem. I had to go from one rail to the next, one at a time, dropping/lifting each by a small amount, to get the core to move. I love the idea of the rail system and the ability to choose your core position and lock it in. I just wish the rails were easier to work mechanically.
I have to admit that it is my least favorite part of the build process. The removability of the front and back panels too is also something to be mindful of. I plumbed in my front and back rads only to realize I had a lot less room to actually pull things out and change them if I needed too as the panels were supporting the case (had to have at least one in at a time). The panels just requires planning is apart of the SFF experience but the rails is something I think should probably be revised to something more suitable. Still had a blast building though :)
 
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6ixty9ine

Caliper Novice
Feb 13, 2020
23
23
Anyone know what's the total thickness of a Noctua 120mm > 140mm adapter with a 120mm slim fan? Just about done with the Arctic slims, looking for an alternative.
 
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Baka

Average Stuffer
Aug 5, 2022
57
99
Oy she lives finally!

Big ups to Protolyth, Taylor and crew for your 1st run success! The wait was long but damn, well worth it. Super fun to build in and hats off to you guys.

Went for a minimalist look without using a res and took a gamble with a dual dc-lt pump setup because of their size. The 2 pumps appear strong enough to push through 2 thin rads and blocks surprisingly. It's not the best flow rate (61-63 l/hr) but with regular sized fans, they serve my cooling needs and it's super quiet.

Anyways, specs below and it's been a fun journey y'all.

Mobo/Chip - Asus Strix B550i w/Ryzen 7 5600X
PSU - Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold
Graphics - Nvidia RTX 3080 TI FE
CPU block - Optimus Foundation
GPU block - EK Quantum Vector
Pump - Alphacool Eisdecke dual DC-LT pump top clone (made by Radikult Custom)
Rads - 2X Alphacool thin ST20 HPE 280mm
Fittings - EQWB Quantum Torque Satin Titanium
Fans - 4x Lian Li UNI 140mm v1 25mm fans

Misc
Aquacomputer flow/temp sensor NEXT
Aquacomputer Octo controller
Corsair XT Hardline frosted tubing
Custom Cables from pslate customs and dreambigbyray custom

 
Last edited:

XNine

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jan 11, 2022
180
254
Anyone know what's the total thickness of a Noctua 120mm > 140mm adapter with a 120mm slim fan? Just about done with the Arctic slims, looking for an alternative.
I'm curious about this too. Cos these Arctic's are just absolutely pissing me off at this point. I'm thinking about ordering the blackout slims with the 140 adapter.

Haven't posted final pics since the build isn't technically done since one of my fans decided to bind on itself and I can't get it unstuck without dismantling a bunch of stuff.
 

NRG

Airflow Optimizer
Oct 30, 2015
289
359
I'm curious about this too. Cos these Arctic's are just absolutely pissing me off at this point. I'm thinking about ordering the blackout slims with the 140 adapter.

Haven't posted final pics since the build isn't technically done since one of my fans decided to bind on itself and I can't get it unstuck without dismantling a bunch of stuff.

from what I recall from our testing in SFF Guru discord, slim fans are essentially useless in these scenarios and probably less so if adapted to 140. I know when I did dual rad T1 that the slims on the side rad essentially did nothing. When I had my Jimu with dual rad full size fans it gave me cooling potential from 350w~ up to 500w~ with the same fan curves. Don’t quote me on the numbers precisely but they are approximate from what I remembe.
 

namnnumbr

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Mar 8, 2019
3
10
For folks having problems with the arctic slim 140s, I'm curious since I'm using them as well and have not had any issues. Are yours push or pull? Mine are pushing air through the rad, and maybe that provides enough lifting force to avoid the blade colliding with the rad?

As far as how effective they are... I can definitely feel hot air being blown on the exhaust side of the slim rad, but I would 100% believe it is <50% as effective as the standard fan on the equivalent rad.
 

XNine

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jan 11, 2022
180
254
For folks having problems with the arctic slim 140s, I'm curious since I'm using them as well and have not had any issues. Are yours push or pull? Mine are pushing air through the rad, and maybe that provides enough lifting force to avoid the blade colliding with the rad?

As far as how effective they are... I can definitely feel hot air being blown on the exhaust side of the slim rad, but I would 100% believe it is <50% as effective as the standard fan on the equivalent rad.
Mine is set up as a wind tunnel as I have the sandwich layout in horizontal orientation. The lower 240 pulls the air from the bottom and the upper 240 has fans pushing out the top. With a 3080 and a 10900k, my water temp has been topping out at about 48c with the fans controlled at 1200RPMs.
 

TaylorChiller

Super Magical Detailer
Original poster
Oct 10, 2019
284
872
The magnets popped off from the case after my 4th time removing the TG panel. I assume just get some tough glue and stick it back in and wait? @TaylorChiller
Hey,

Yes you can use JB weld. Clear 5min set time should do the trick. I'd leave your panels off for a day. There's been very few cases with this issue.

If you're having trouble with the glue route, we can send you new ones. Just email the Protolyth support through the website.

Taylor
 
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HaulinHP

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Feb 5, 2023
3
10

Time Spy Tests - GPU average temp dropped from 87 degrees to 56 degrees CPU average temp dropped from 60 degrees to 50 degrees.

The only changes between these two tests were that I changed the flow of the coolant to flow through the proper inlet in the GPU block and I changed the rear fans from intake to exhaust.

When I did web searches I found that even EK said that the flow through the GPU block didn't matter. It absolutely does in my system.

I am now running 280mm front rad with 2 27mm thick 140mm fans as intake. 240mm rear rad with 2 15mm thick 120mm fans as exhaust & I have a 92mm thin fan on the back side of the motherboard attached to the vented panel as exhaust as well.

I had a lot of headaches getting to this, so I thought I would share, in case anyone else is running into similar issues.