Log Skyreach S4 Mini Build Issues

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
Hello everyone,

I’m in the process of putting together my second S4 mini build and ran into some problems. First and foremost being, given my chosen components, could I adequately cool everything. I seemed to have solved that by undervolting the CPU, but I still have a power problem.

330W doesn’t seem like it would be enough under full draw, so I have ordered a HDPLEX 400 AC-DC unit, but am not sure if it will fit. Any advice as to what cards fit would be appreciated. I’m in the market for a 2070 mini but there’s none to be found ha.

Specs:
  • Noctua NH-L9i Cromax Black CPU Cooler
  • Intel iCore i7 3.8GHz 10700K CPU
  • ASUS Strix Z490i Mini ITX Motherboard
  • Crucial Ballistix 32GB DDR4 3200MHz RAM
  • WD Black SN750 500GB M.2 SSD
  • MSI GTX 1660 Super Aero ITX OC 6GB
  • Skyreach S4 Mini Case
  • HDPLEX 400W HiFi DC-ATX
  • Dell 330W Power Brick
 

hereforthefeast

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 25, 2019
129
133
I just finished my first brickless S4M build using a Ryzen 3600 + 3060ti, here's some thoughts and pointers:

- You're not going to be able to hit the upper limits of that CPU, what's your main use case that you have it paired with a 1660?
- The Metalfish Z39 cooler performs a few degrees cooler than the L9a for me.
- I would trip the Dell 330W brick (either due to a wattage spike or after too long it would shutdown due to heat) with the Ryzen 3600 + 3060ti
- Since switching to the HDPlex 400W v3.0 I have had zero issues, even after hours of gaming. Be aware that the HDPlex AC-DC is expected to have coil whine at idle. It will attach directly to the S4M case with 4 screws.
- Get a 1TB m.2 drive rather than the 500GB version
 
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JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
Just wanted something as fast as possible in as small a form factor as possible. The 1660 was the only card I could get my hands on in the same generation that would fit. Would have much preferred a 2070. Main use is media storage/playback and occasional gaming.

Yes I was worried about tripping the brick, that’s why I went and ordered the HDPLEX AC-DC. It really doesn’t look like it’s going to fit with my current card though unfortunately, so I’m open to solutions/replacement card options.

I have two of those WD SSDs, I’m using one for Windows and programs, and the other for storage.
 

Teebs

Trash Compacter
Mar 24, 2020
44
68
400W is definitely the way if you want to push the space constraint for performance.

As for GPUs - I am running an INNO 3D 2070 8 GB which is (as far as I can tell) the second most powerful GPU you can fit in the build - but the best one with a type C output.
I believe the brickless compatible card with the strongest performance is the EVGA 3060 Ti.

There are several other options out there if you are looking at last gen cards below 2070 & espescially with 10xx / 16xx series cards.

You need to consider the length of the cards for the s4mini in general - but card height becomes a major factor for going brickless - and a lot of "SFF" GPU's with dual or even single fan cooling are too tall to use with the HDPlex above them. I had initially bought an MSI 2060 Aero ITX but it was too tall for a brickless layout.

> If you check these pictures you can get a sense of the height difference by looking just above the case mounting brackets in the top left of each pic



You will have an issue with card height if you get anything taller than the Inno3d 2070 (about 110 - 115 mm)

I've been building an S4mini this year - and daily driving it for several months now. I've got a build log here here if you are interested in seeing some pics/process & If you have any other questions about your build I've followed this thread and I'd be happy to help.
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
I had a look around for that card, and it is pure unobtanium; you’re really lucky to have one. Seems all 2070s are few and far between, I seem to have left it a bit late to upgrade my system.

I had a 1070 aero but that was the same size. I sold it without really looking to see what other cards were available, and immediately regretted it. The 1660S was the best replacement I was able to source.

That’s really upsetting that there’s only a few millimeters preventing so many cards from fitting. I’ve bought a 180 degree adapter from Josh in the hope I can find something, anything really at this point, that will fit with the AC-DC installed.

I had a look at your build, looks pretty slick. Laughed at the taped on HDPlex.

I hate to say it, but if I don’t find a card that will fit brickless, I’m going to need to consider another case. A real shame because I love this thing. Might throw it on EBay with the 400W combo.
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
UPDATE:

I somehow managed to find the same card as you, albeit the 2060 version. Still an upgrade as far as I’m concerned, and what’s better is that it’ll actually fit!

I was intrigued by what you did replacing the fans on yours, was it very involved? I’m confident in pulling off the shroud and installing a couple of slim fans to the sky bracket, but not much else.

Also, did you have a hard time making the card fit with the HDPlex HiFi unit in the way? Did it interfere with your power switch at all? I can’t move mine over any more than it already is, it’s touching my power button.

Photos when everything arrives in the mail.
 

Teebs

Trash Compacter
Mar 24, 2020
44
68
UPDATE:

I somehow managed to find the same card as you, albeit the 2060 version. Still an upgrade as far as I’m concerned, and what’s better is that it’ll actually fit!

I was intrigued by what you did replacing the fans on yours, was it very involved? I’m confident in pulling off the shroud and installing a couple of slim fans to the sky bracket, but not much else.

Also, did you have a hard time making the card fit with the HDPlex HiFi unit in the way? Did it interfere with your power switch at all? I can’t move mine over any more than it already is, it’s touching my power button.

Photos when everything arrives in the mail.

Gz on the find~! a 2060 is a great option for the build. I was looking for both and happened to find a 2070 first.

The GPU deshroud was *very* easy with the inno3d 2070 - this card was clearly designed with that in mind. It can even go back together later if I want to swap it out.
I can't say for sure if your 2060 version will have the same internal build but I would definitely take a look - it was as simple as removing the fasteners, threading a pair of noctua slim fans on to the bracket that came with the skyreach case, and then i bought 2 adapter cabless online to convert the fans.

You should have no problem with either of the HDplex pieces if the card is the same size as mine - but something to note is that the GPU power riser was backwards from the 2060 Aero I had beforehand - so that might be a thing for you too (there are 2 varieties on the webstore - I now own both)
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
Update time.

So after much waiting, the graphics card and HDplex unit arrived today! Unfortunately I’ve run into problems, big ones.

The card was infuriating to install, along with the sky bracket and slim fans; but I got there in the end. When I tried to fit the HDplex however, I found that the heat pipe coming from the card is far too wide, by about 5-6mm, and there is just no way this is going to work.

To say I am disheartened would be an understatement. I don’t think there’s anything I can do :(

 
Last edited:

seppola

Trash Compacter
Jan 1, 2020
34
13
I believe for that GPU model, if you want to go brickless, you need to modify the HDplex AC/DC unit and also use a angled pcie-connector.
 
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Teebs

Trash Compacter
Mar 24, 2020
44
68
Update time.

So after much waiting, the graphics card and HDplex unit arrived today! Unfortunately I’ve run into problems, big ones.

The card was infuriating to install, along with the sky bracket and slim fans; but I got there in the end. When I tried to fit the HDplex however, I found that the heat pipe coming from the card is far too wide, by about 5-6mm, and there is just no way this is going to work.

To say I am disheartened would be an understatement. I don’t think there’s anything I can do :(

The card *looks* identical - but it's hard to see exactly what would be causing you issues. do you have more pics with the hdplex for context?


I believe for that GPU model, if you want to go brickless, you need to modify the HDplex AC/DC unit and also use a angled pcie-connector.


I made no modifications to my HDplex ac/dc - but angled pcie is a must.
 

Teebs

Trash Compacter
Mar 24, 2020
44
68
Hmm, thought you had to grind it thinner?
I made no modifications to my HDplex - and it fits fine with my inno3d 2070
I did deshroud my GPU - but I ran the build with the card stock for quite a while before that.

You have to slot the PSU in gently and its a tight fit - but the HDplex ACDC fits brickless just fine in my experience~
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
After looking at the 2060 and 2070 versions of the Inno3D card I believe they have a slightly different heatsink, yours doesn't appear to have the heatpipe sticking out as mine does. I have found a solution though, and everything is now installed. I had to take the back off of the HDPlex to allow it to fit next to the Inno3D, but it appears to be running just fine. I was wondering though if anyone knew if that was dangerous at all? The heat pipe is very close to what appears to be the fattest capacitor I have ever seen, but it isn't actually in contact with it.

Also, I have no idea how you managed to mount the power lead connector to the inside of your case, I cannot for the life of me get it in there with the HDPlex installed. I tried sanding it down but to no effect; It's currently hanging outside as that is the only option I have.

For some reason I can't seem to insert any photos but I'll try another link.

Just waiting on the 180 adapter now and she's done!


Here's the PSU/heatpipe conflict

 
Last edited:

seppola

Trash Compacter
Jan 1, 2020
34
13
You should use some electrical tape to protect those components. Opening PSUs can be dangerous.

NFC systems has a video on youtube where he uses a ”open” HDplex AC/DC in a build, check it out for tips.
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
You should use some electrical tape to protect those components. Opening PSUs can be dangerous.

Duly noted. I'll take a careful look at that during final assembly.

It's just that power lead connector to sort out now and it'll all close up nice and neat. Finally brickless :D
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
Thanks for that, I was trawling through Josh's YouTube playlist but didn't realize it might be unlisted.

It's virtually the same solution with my card, I'll just add some electrical tape between that single heat pipe and the large cap and hope nothing horrible happens :thumb:
 

Teebs

Trash Compacter
Mar 24, 2020
44
68
After looking at the 2060 and 2070 versions of the Inno3D card I believe they have a slightly different heatsink, yours doesn't appear to have the heatpipe sticking out as mine does. I have found a solution though, and everything is now installed. I had to take the back off of the HDPlex to allow it to fit next to the Inno3D, but it appears to be running just fine. I was wondering though if anyone knew if that was dangerous at all? The heat pipe is very close to what appears to be the fattest capacitor I have ever seen, but it isn't actually in contact with it.

Also, I have no idea how you managed to mount the power lead connector to the inside of your case, I cannot for the life of me get it in there with the HDPlex installed. I tried sanding it down but to no effect; It's currently hanging outside as that is the only option I have.

For some reason I can't seem to insert any photos but I'll try another link.

Just waiting on the 180 adapter now and she's done!


Here's the PSU/heatpipe conflict


I had to cut and file the power lead adapter to fit in the rear of the case. the plastic is too wide for the corresponding opening.
I just used an exacto knife and a hand file.

Please be very careful with open PSU components - I know people have done this before but it can be dangerous.
 

JTF91

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Oct 18, 2020
18
5
I’ll unplug the PSU and let it discharge for an hour before I go anywhere near it, and I’ll be careful not to poke around inside; all I really need to do is put a single wall of tape between things so I should be ok.

I think I can make the connector fit if I mount it externally and screw it in from the inside, won’t look as nice but if it works it’s a win, I just want this done.

I’m expecting the 180 degree adapter this week, I will post photos of the completed build when it’s all done.

Thanks everyone for the advice, I’m really happy I’ve finally got this working :)