After I've ordered the SGPC K39 V3 about a month ago, I was a bit disappointed to find out that the HDPlex GaN 500 actually doesnt fit.
Reminder: Although the PSU casing itself is 200 mm, that doesnt include things like the PSU cable or the ATX plug, which increases the size by about 5 - 6 mm (lets just say 21 cm, for easy of use).
So I've tried out the many different ways of potentially building with or without the HDPlex GaN 500. If we go at it traditionally = as in "like it was meant to be build in", the CPU cooler size actually allows for up to 55 mm, instead of the measly 43ish from before. Thats nice for anything harmless, like an i5-12400 or even a Ryzen 7 7700 (NON-X! ).
This is quite boring and also annoying, so I did try out different setups intead
a) You can move the GPU to the lowest point at the back of the case AND potentially also install an AIO, with max width - per default - at about 45 mm depth. Routing is a bit difficult, but doable. Or you can increase the size by using panel standoffs, which is one of the main reasony why I bought specifically this case.
I know this from the K49, which I also considered for a while for a down-size, but eventually scraped the idea.
b) Move the GPU to the front and bottom, and the Flex-PSU to the back, potentially also making use of the standoff option (either front OR back OR BOTH).
c) Move the Flex-PSU to the back, then rotate it AND the GPU by 90°, which would allow installing a 120 mm AIO on the bottom; depending on what pump location it uses, you can optionally just flip the case upside down, but the disadvantage would be to not be able to easily reach the power switch, even with the feet moved to the top, too. The better option would be going for an AIO, which has its pump located either in the radiator or the tubes, eg. Silverstone Vida 120, be quiet Pure Loop 2, etc.
Most of this should also be doable with a regular non-LP GPU, its just that my goal was using the LP 4060.
Reminder: Although the PSU casing itself is 200 mm, that doesnt include things like the PSU cable or the ATX plug, which increases the size by about 5 - 6 mm (lets just say 21 cm, for easy of use).
So I've tried out the many different ways of potentially building with or without the HDPlex GaN 500. If we go at it traditionally = as in "like it was meant to be build in", the CPU cooler size actually allows for up to 55 mm, instead of the measly 43ish from before. Thats nice for anything harmless, like an i5-12400 or even a Ryzen 7 7700 (NON-X! ).
This is quite boring and also annoying, so I did try out different setups intead
Options with a Gigabyte RTX 4060 LP:
a) You can move the GPU to the lowest point at the back of the case AND potentially also install an AIO, with max width - per default - at about 45 mm depth. Routing is a bit difficult, but doable. Or you can increase the size by using panel standoffs, which is one of the main reasony why I bought specifically this case.
I know this from the K49, which I also considered for a while for a down-size, but eventually scraped the idea.
b) Move the GPU to the front and bottom, and the Flex-PSU to the back, potentially also making use of the standoff option (either front OR back OR BOTH).
c) Move the Flex-PSU to the back, then rotate it AND the GPU by 90°, which would allow installing a 120 mm AIO on the bottom; depending on what pump location it uses, you can optionally just flip the case upside down, but the disadvantage would be to not be able to easily reach the power switch, even with the feet moved to the top, too. The better option would be going for an AIO, which has its pump located either in the radiator or the tubes, eg. Silverstone Vida 120, be quiet Pure Loop 2, etc.
Most of this should also be doable with a regular non-LP GPU, its just that my goal was using the LP 4060.
Options with a HDPlex GaN 500 and a LP GPU:
Options with a HDPlex GaN 500 and a LP GPU:
b + c as detailed before both work, but a) is going to be difficult. So I tried out something different. I disassembled the case and tried to figure out if I could
go for a traditional setup WITHOUT riser cable.
Which works, but you obviously need to do a bit more to make it happen.
1. So you need to remove the middle frame / tray, and either add mounting points on one of the side panels and attach it on top of it, OR just skip that step and use the mounting points directly for your mainboard.
2. If going with the second route, you need to make sure there is enough space for any other components located on the back, ESPECIALLY m2 slots, as you almost certainly need to consider the height for at least a passive m2 cooler (including semi-passive solutions like the be quiet MC1 Pro, which additionally uses a heatpipe).
3. To install the HDPlex GaN 500, you need to remove the combined power switch + USB port panel. As the component is identical to the one used in the K77 Lite, you can safely clip off both sides = the USB ports, and be left with only the power switch. One mounting point is completely enough for the left-over power switch panel, so you either could completely cut of the protruding first one or just keep it as is, but its going to be unusable for the attachment of the power switch now.
The distance between the HDPlex GaN casing and the mounting standoff is between 1 and 0.5mm, so there really is no chance of reusing it anyway.
At second best, we lay it flat towards the case front, possibly fully or partially removing one of the protruding points on the side (IDK whats its function, maybe its left over from production).
go for a traditional setup WITHOUT riser cable.
Which works, but you obviously need to do a bit more to make it happen.
1. So you need to remove the middle frame / tray, and either add mounting points on one of the side panels and attach it on top of it, OR just skip that step and use the mounting points directly for your mainboard.
2. If going with the second route, you need to make sure there is enough space for any other components located on the back, ESPECIALLY m2 slots, as you almost certainly need to consider the height for at least a passive m2 cooler (including semi-passive solutions like the be quiet MC1 Pro, which additionally uses a heatpipe).
3. To install the HDPlex GaN 500, you need to remove the combined power switch + USB port panel. As the component is identical to the one used in the K77 Lite, you can safely clip off both sides = the USB ports, and be left with only the power switch. One mounting point is completely enough for the left-over power switch panel, so you either could completely cut of the protruding first one or just keep it as is, but its going to be unusable for the attachment of the power switch now.
The distance between the HDPlex GaN casing and the mounting standoff is between 1 and 0.5mm, so there really is no chance of reusing it anyway.
At second best, we lay it flat towards the case front, possibly fully or partially removing one of the protruding points on the side (IDK whats its function, maybe its left over from production).
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