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[Ncase M1] Custom Watercooled, dual-240 mm Radiator, 8700K + 1080 Ti

T4iga

Chassis Packer
Jun 21, 2019
20
6
I wouldn't mind goiong with a few screws less if that was all it takes.
I think I will look at buying another GTS240 myself then.
Currently have one side mounted with 2 12x25s on it.

Heads up with the apogee drive: I bought one used and the threads didn't fit EKWB fittings well. Threading was cut a little bit off so tightening to a secure seal without tools was impossible! Also consider your motherboard layout. I had to find out they appear to be moving outside the keep out zone resulting in one fitting now putting pressure on my RAM and the original config I wanted to use being impossible (note this might not happen with bare RAM modules!) From doing an intial bleeding the pump definitly is more powerful than expected but also significantly louder than expected. I would still recommend the unit overall
 
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Blubbie21

Trash Compacter
Feb 3, 2020
34
21
@For_Science , and others with dual 240mm radiators:

I also want to do a dual radiator build. Currently waiting for my NCase M1 to arrive.
It is currently not possible to get a XSPC TX240 ultrathin (at least not in europe/germany) - so i likely go for an MagiCool 240 G2 Slim (27mm height).
I read about the problems with the front IO.
Does this problem only occur if you want fix the radiator with all screws at the bottom? Does this problem occur only if you want to mount radiator on the bottom and put the fans between radiator and gpu-waterblock?

Generally, if it solves the problem i would not use any screws and keep the radiator lying down on the bottom (fans on top - between radiator and GPU-waterblock).
Do you think this could be an option to solve the problem?

On my current big tower / ATX build i even have a 360mm radiator lying down on the case without any screws.
 

For_Science

Master of Cramming
Original poster
Feb 16, 2018
447
613
@For_Science , and others with dual 240mm radiators:

I also want to do a dual radiator build. Currently waiting for my NCase M1 to arrive.
It is currently not possible to get a XSPC TX240 ultrathin (at least not in europe/germany) - so i likely go for an MagiCool 240 G2 Slim (27mm height).
I read about the problems with the front IO.
Does this problem only occur if you want fix the radiator with all screws at the bottom? Does this problem occur only if you want to mount radiator on the bottom and put the fans between radiator and gpu-waterblock?

Generally, if it solves the problem i would not use any screws and keep the radiator lying down on the bottom (fans on top - between radiator and GPU-waterblock).
Do you think this could be an option to solve the problem?

On my current big tower / ATX build i even have a 360mm radiator lying down on the case without any screws.
Sorry that I never replied. I think the radiator must be installed above the fans in the bottom to make sure that the fittings can clear a full length GPU. I tried this year to install the radiator in the bottom and it wouldn't work for the 30 mm GTS radiator. Maybe with the 3 mm gained with the Magicool, it may work, but I can't guarantee it.

Anyhow,
I did maintain this build to incoorporate dual-240 mm radiator with a rear intake. I also changed out the feet of the original Ncase M1 so that the case can exhaust air through the bottom more effectively. Furthermore, I did also make custom cables for all the components so that there is significantly less clutter in the PSU area so that the drain port can be accessed better.

2 x Hardware Labs GTS 240 mm radiators. The bottom has 15 mm Noctua Fans, and are set in exhaust. I had to redo a lot of the tubing and also in the meantime ran out of black fittings, so you see the random nickel fitting on the left. If you squint, you can also see that I moved the fan hub to under the rear intake fan, where the tube inlet cuttings are



View of the rear side. While the custom length cables are easier in terms of being the right length, they are stiffer and so I had to resort to a bit of a janky routing behind the motherboard. However the cleanly available drain port is a huge plus



Equally clean front, with no excess SATA power. I guess if I wanted another one in future I would have to remake this cable, no biggie. You can also see my temperature probe on the left port as the other one I put in died shortly after moving.


Top view. The D5 pump and CPU block was replaced by a Eisbaer Solo LT. It really isn't powerful enough to be fully automonous in this kind of build. I in fact had to use a D5 pump/res to fill the system and then splice it out. Even after that there was a bit of air that you can see has accumulated in the top of this tubing. As this is a reservoir-less loop, I suppose that was to be expected. In future I could plumb in a smaller LT pump/res or just a T-valve up there so that I can remove this last bit of air.

Not immediately clear from the photo but I have a fan in the rear and intake just to balance some pressure and provide some minimal airflow to the board. Also I got a ARGB strip so that I could get rid of the bulky controller. Fans are also upgraded to Noctua A12x25 on exhaust.
 

Phreno

Trash Compacter
May 24, 2020
38
30
Nice. i'm struggling to consider the Eisbaer lt as a valid alternative for Dual 240mm configuration, how are the temps in comparison to your previous setup?
 

For_Science

Master of Cramming
Original poster
Feb 16, 2018
447
613
Nice. i'm struggling to consider the Eisbaer lt as a valid alternative for Dual 240mm configuration, how are the temps in comparison to your previous setup?
You know, a lot of things changed from the last setup and I didnt really take any detailed before/afters. Especially with different fans noise normalized tests are also kind of meaningless.

I am going to go with a "better temps at the same noise level" as a statement. The current temps are reasonable (can give more details later) but i normally dont max my fans out either so.... yeah.

Lets say theres enough headroom for the 8700K and 1080ti to flex its legs.
 

christyles

Cable Smoosher
Sep 2, 2017
10
2
I'm starting to look into water cooling my 8700k and 1080ti after I saw Optimum Tech's video on the NCASE. I'm currently using C14 and an arctic accelero. How's the temps in your dual 240 build?
 

For_Science

Master of Cramming
Original poster
Feb 16, 2018
447
613
I'm starting to look into water cooling my 8700k and 1080ti after I saw Optimum Tech's video on the NCASE. I'm currently using C14 and an arctic accelero. How's the temps in your dual 240 build?
Hello! I just grabbed these numbers quickly before heading out today so they aren't as long as usual burn-ins, but here they are. Do take note that I didn't max out my fans or anything as they are still on my daily driver fan curve, so the machine is still very quite despite being next to me.

Cold Boot and Idle:
PCH Temperature: 41 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 26 degrees
CPU temperature: 31/32 degrees
GPU temperature: 27 degrees

RealBench Stress Test (10 minute mark):
CPU Freq: 4.8 GHz (AVX offset -2)
CPU Temperature: 80~86 degrees (one anomalous core consistently hotter, so max core in the low 90's)
GPU Temperature 55 degrees
PCH Temperature: 67 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 43 degrees
Memory Temperature: 46 degrees
Fan Speed: Nominally 980 rpm

Cinebench R15 (Straight after the RealBench Above)
Score: 1552-1637 (depending on background tasks)
Fluid temperature: 41 degrees
CPU Temperature: 80~86 degrees (one anomalous core consistently hotter, so max core in the low 90's)
CPU Freq: 5.0 GHz

Warm Idle (after a couple of minutes after the Cinebench R15 and Realbench)
PCH Temperature: 66 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 36 degrees
CPU temperature: 40 degrees
GPU temperature: 36 degrees

Unigine Heaven Loop (Ran after the Warm Idle)
CPU Freq: 5.0 GHz
CPU Temperature: 55-58 degrees (Max Spikes to Low 60's)
GPU Temperature 58 degrees
PCH Temperature: 66 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 42 degrees
Memory Temperature: 45 degrees
Fan Speed: Nominally 950 rpm
 

christyles

Cable Smoosher
Sep 2, 2017
10
2
Hello! I just grabbed these numbers quickly before heading out today so they aren't as long as usual burn-ins, but here they are. Do take note that I didn't max out my fans or anything as they are still on my daily driver fan curve, so the machine is still very quite despite being next to me.

Cold Boot and Idle:
PCH Temperature: 41 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 26 degrees
CPU temperature: 31/32 degrees
GPU temperature: 27 degrees

RealBench Stress Test (10 minute mark):
CPU Freq: 4.8 GHz (AVX offset -2)
CPU Temperature: 80~86 degrees (one anomalous core consistently hotter, so max core in the low 90's)
GPU Temperature 55 degrees
PCH Temperature: 67 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 43 degrees
Memory Temperature: 46 degrees
Fan Speed: Nominally 980 rpm

Cinebench R15 (Straight after the RealBench Above)
Score: 1552-1637 (depending on background tasks)
Fluid temperature: 41 degrees
CPU Temperature: 80~86 degrees (one anomalous core consistently hotter, so max core in the low 90's)
CPU Freq: 5.0 GHz

Warm Idle (after a couple of minutes after the Cinebench R15 and Realbench)
PCH Temperature: 66 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 36 degrees
CPU temperature: 40 degrees
GPU temperature: 36 degrees

Unigine Heaven Loop (Ran after the Warm Idle)
CPU Freq: 5.0 GHz
CPU Temperature: 55-58 degrees (Max Spikes to Low 60's)
GPU Temperature 58 degrees
PCH Temperature: 66 degrees
Fluid Temperature: 42 degrees
Memory Temperature: 45 degrees
Fan Speed: Nominally 950 rpm
What's your ambient temp? These results are amazing btw!