I like it, but the only thing I can think of is that the logo looks like the EKWB logo
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Prototype KMPKT Dynamo DC-12V
- Thread starter Kmpkt
- Start date
Yeah I can see where you'd get that. Hopefully they don't sue!
Yeah, this would match a small build with EKWB components.
So an update on how I will be handling power on the Dynamo. In the base always on state, you can simply plug a device (Pico PSU, mITX, etc.) into the V-out and in most cases GPUs and SATA drives should just power on when signalled to by the motherboard. In the cases that this DOESN'T work, any 5V input from either the Pico unit or motherboard will work to signal the board to power on if the switching jumper is set correctly. As soon as the motherboard powers down and the 5V ceases, the Dynamo will turn off. While this solution would require one extra wire, it's pretty simple to wire for and it is hypothetically very reliable. The two most straightforward places to route 5V from would be from the SATA power header on your Pico or a fan header on the motherboard.
Updated measurements to reflect the final production build. The unit is now two mm wider at 47mm, but also 18mm shorter at 120mm. The thickness remains unchanged at 26mm. The unit should be on its way to me as we speak and I'll hopefully have the unit available before the end of the month for my Timbre S4 build log.
This is exciting!
So, to make sure I'm understanding things properly, the Dynamo will take 'wall power' (AC) and convert it into a format usable with a DC-DC/"DC-ATX" board like a HDPlex/PicoPSU? Similar to the HDPlex AC-DC brick.
I get that, but I am confused/surprised that you can take power directly from the brick and send it to peripherals like drives or video cards--that is what the PCI-e connectors and whatnot are meant for, right? Were you able to (in theory, at least) sort out the potential issues EdZ had mentioned, like VRMs getting power without active cooling as the worst-case?
So what really throws me for a loop is "Why do I even need a HDPlex/PicoPSU DC-DC/DC-ATX board if this is converting everything to DC already and it can power my peripherals?"
Finally, if the ~300W overhead is enough for my system already, could I use a lower-power DC-DC board? Does it need to be rated high enough for my CPU's TDP, or can the Dynamo pick up the slack for the DC-DC board?
So, to make sure I'm understanding things properly, the Dynamo will take 'wall power' (AC) and convert it into a format usable with a DC-DC/"DC-ATX" board like a HDPlex/PicoPSU? Similar to the HDPlex AC-DC brick.
I get that, but I am confused/surprised that you can take power directly from the brick and send it to peripherals like drives or video cards--that is what the PCI-e connectors and whatnot are meant for, right? Were you able to (in theory, at least) sort out the potential issues EdZ had mentioned, like VRMs getting power without active cooling as the worst-case?
So what really throws me for a loop is "Why do I even need a HDPlex/PicoPSU DC-DC/DC-ATX board if this is converting everything to DC already and it can power my peripherals?"
Finally, if the ~300W overhead is enough for my system already, could I use a lower-power DC-DC board? Does it need to be rated high enough for my CPU's TDP, or can the Dynamo pick up the slack for the DC-DC board?
Oops! Haha, sorry about that. I was really excited to see AC-DC with such a small footprint.
First prototype had a couple bugs that have since been ironed out. Hoping to have a unit in my hands shortly.
Oh I won't. I've got an entire S4 build log to do around it as well.
I recently discovered that the on-board 7.4mm barrel connector of the Asrock H110 Thin-Mini ITX board was "only" rated for 10A.
That means that you shouldn't power more than a GTX 1060 and 35 CPU using this barrel conenctor (what did @QinX though).
To be able to feature more powerful components, I cannot use the DC-IN barrel anymore.
To minimize the number of cables, I was thinking of something like that XP Power 19V AC Adapter, and directly plug its 6-Pin connector output into the V-in 6-pin connector of the Dynamo board, as both pinouts happen to match (refer to datasheet last page) :
Upper row : V out
Lower row : GND
Using the Dynamo as a splitter, I would use the V-out connector to ouput 19V to the 2-Pin connector of the motherboard.
To be able to use the V-out as passthrough, the Dynamo board would need to be in an always "on" state" ?
If this is the case, is it be possible to have the V-out connector always on, and the 8-pin PCIe connectors triggered by the 5V input ?
I am not sure to be clear.
Last question : will it be possible to easily remove the heatsink ?
I currently have a semi-passive case and I would screw teh Dynamo board to one of the heatsinks case, to reduce the overall height of the board.
Picture of my current build (GTX 1060 & i5 6400T) to better understand my questions. I aim to replace the HDPLEX 250W by the Dynamo board.
I currently use the internal 2-Pin Mini-Fit JR connector as passthrough output to feed the HDPLEX. But as I learned, I cannot ouput more than 190W, since the motherboard DC barrel connector is rated for 10A.
That means that you shouldn't power more than a GTX 1060 and 35 CPU using this barrel conenctor (what did @QinX though).
To be able to feature more powerful components, I cannot use the DC-IN barrel anymore.
To minimize the number of cables, I was thinking of something like that XP Power 19V AC Adapter, and directly plug its 6-Pin connector output into the V-in 6-pin connector of the Dynamo board, as both pinouts happen to match (refer to datasheet last page) :
Upper row : V out
Lower row : GND
Using the Dynamo as a splitter, I would use the V-out connector to ouput 19V to the 2-Pin connector of the motherboard.
To be able to use the V-out as passthrough, the Dynamo board would need to be in an always "on" state" ?
If this is the case, is it be possible to have the V-out connector always on, and the 8-pin PCIe connectors triggered by the 5V input ?
I am not sure to be clear.
Last question : will it be possible to easily remove the heatsink ?
I currently have a semi-passive case and I would screw teh Dynamo board to one of the heatsinks case, to reduce the overall height of the board.
Picture of my current build (GTX 1060 & i5 6400T) to better understand my questions. I aim to replace the HDPLEX 250W by the Dynamo board.
I currently use the internal 2-Pin Mini-Fit JR connector as passthrough output to feed the HDPLEX. But as I learned, I cannot ouput more than 190W, since the motherboard DC barrel connector is rated for 10A.
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There is a header on the Dynamo to trigger PS_ON from a 5V source. This can either be done through a SATA connector on a 19V Pico Unit like the HDPlex 160W DC-ATX or my own custom version of said unit or alternatively from any fan header on the board (Chassis fan makes the most sense to me).
This is exactly correct. You can sync the board to turn on via the fan header on your Skull Canyon NUC and if you're using a powered M.2 to PCIe x4 riser assembly, it can be powered via the Dynamo as well. If you'd like, you could actually use a much more powerful card than the 1050ti as the Dynamo should actually have the overhead to run a 1080 Mini in combo with your NuC (as long as you have an AC-DC solution that can handle it).
The top heatsink is 5mm thick and screwed to the base heatsink. You will be able to unscrew it, but I'm not totally sure how at this point as I haven't received my prototype yet.
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Should I just put my wallet in the post, and cut out the middle man?
So when might I be able to buy this gizmo? I would love to test it for you, via purchase of course.
So I am supposed to be getting a couple of prototypes in the next week or two complete with HDPlex 300W AC-DC units. I am planning to test them pretty throughly in a couple of configurations to make sure everything works as intended. I am hopeful to be able to produce this board by the end of May, but nothing is absolutely certain until I put the demos through their paces.
They'll be for sale fairly soon if all goes well.
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