Fiesta ST, replacing bent valves, DIY always.

[RAAM]

Pulling the head today off very low mileage engine to inspect everything before ordering parts, so far only know parts I must buy are head gasket and bolts, will see how it goes, 90 percent done, cams are next then head bolts.

Once I know what I need to do I will order parts, lap and replace bent valves, then put it all back together.

I used to have an EFR turbo, 400HP, 165'lbs ligther than stock, turbo lag was making it really fun but really hard to be safe and huge grip and it want to run right off the road. Downsized to a GT2650, now around 350 HP but much easier to drive and ultimately faster except in just a straight line but I always loved curves more than straights.

Just took lunch break, going back at it in a moment until to hot to work on it.

Rick

 

[RAAM]

Head is off, valves are out, sure a ton of parts and very complicated to put it back to gether when I am done.

Lapping all the valves, new seals, new head gasket of course and one time use head bolts, sealers, etc.....I have to install the head, bolt it down, install cams, measure valve lash valve lash, take cams out and replace and lash buckets that are out of spec, install cams, measure again, good to go then take the cams out, install new head bolts, install cams.

All during this I have to have the cams and crank perfectly aligned and the crank turned 270 degrees while bolting down the cam caps. I have the tools on hand but very tedious and exacting work. By the manual I have to pull the passenger side axle and mount to get to the crank locking bolt location, why in the heck did they not put it in an easier place to get to.

Working in a none insulated space, 96 F today, only so many hours before just to hot but I will get it done, cleaned up, tuned and ready to sell to somebody that will get a great deal on a $50k(ten years ago) project with barely any hard use and 22k miles.

Rick

 

[RAAM]

Dang, a lot of work to get the valves taken care of and installed new guide/seals while at it. I used the water/compressed air method which involves sealing the spark plug and DI holes in the combustion chambers, flipping the head upside down and filling to over the top of the valves with water. Made a seal, used compressed air to blow through and look for air bubbles around the valves, had 5 leaking when I started.

Relapped all the valves, tested again, down to two left to fix, one more lapping pass and then used a heavy ball been hammer to tap the valves to help seat them fully, it worked, all pass now!!

Meticuloustly clean and prep head and block surfaces, tops of pistons, etc.....

Installed head with new gasket and stretch head bolts, two torque passes in sequence, two 90 degree added turns using a degree wheel, in sequence as well. Cams installed, two sizes bolt, two sequences for each side so four in a row total.

Next up is checking valve lash then expect to have to pull the cams and swap out any needed tappets for the correct thickness, just got to hot to continue, back at in the AM.

 

[confusis]

Fantastic work! What caused the bent valves in the first place? I've got plans to rebuild a Toyota 1ZZ engine with my son and nephew, and your description of your process gives me inspiration to try and get that started as soon as I can find a good base engine!