Advice Deskmini A300 with GPU

[Arboreal]

Although I'm a way off being ready to do this, I'd like to see how to add a GPU to my A300.

I have a Palit Storm X GTX 1050Ti with custom heatsink mod, and that looks ideal.

Looking @msystems excellent work with the Desknano, I can see that a 10cm ADT Link R43UH will provide the PCIE 4x connection

Powering it is the part I'm most unsure of. My rational brain says it will need 200W to run the GPU with a 3400G fitted (currently has an Athlon 200GE...), and I'll need to feed 12V to the GPU and also to the DM barrel connector using a suitable plug.

The ADT 2 pin power connection looks really lightweight, will I be OK feeding the 75W that the 1050Ti needs into that small connector?

I also irrationally wondered if an HP 905301-001 160W EliteOne 800 G2 AIO Power Supply at 160W would cope? I realise the standard brick with the DM is 120W.
There seems to be a 200W version of this interesting slim 12V only HP PSU (which has been discussed elsewhere on SFFN), but I can only see 160W variants on ebay UK at the moment.

 

[msystems]

The ADT 2 pin power connection looks really lightweight, will I be OK feeding the 75W that teh 1050Ti needs into that small connector?

It's been done by Revoccases, but on a different riser that should be functionally the same. The Gen 3 x16 riser had a 4 pin connector, but only 2 pins were used.
With the Gen 4 x16, ADT reduced it to the 2-pin connector.

It's visible in the 2nd image of this post (also side note- seriously one of the most impressive things i've ever seen and I learned everything about m.2 gpu from this)

Log - RCC-eGPU2 | a tiny portable 0.6L Thunderbolt GTX 1650 eGPU

I was thinking about some new project for my low profile single slot YESTON GTX 1650 and came up with the idea to make another DIY Thunderbolt eGPU enclosure for it. parts used for this build: generic M.2 to TB3 40Gbps adapter ADT-LINK M.2 to PCIe 16x Riser Cable PICOBOX DCDC200 step down...

smallformfactor.net

Depending on how janky you want the build to be, you can either add another brick just for the GPU (or upgrade to 240w 19v Gan brick and split it)+ use a picobox or hdplex dc-dc / or use a single 12v psu + a Y-splitter like you are planning.

 

[Valantar]

Depending on the dimensions of your GPU, something like a MeanWell UHP-200-12 might be a near ideal PSU solution. Slim and long, delivers 200W with modest cooling needs, and very good quality. You'll need some sort of load switch for the GPU though, or just a manual switch to cut its power when the PC isn't on so you don't risk its fans running all the time.

 

[msystems]

There's also this https://www.eospower.com/WLP350

Confirmed to work by Curiositys build

 

[Arboreal]

It's been done by Revoccases, but on a different riser that should be functionally the same. The Gen 3 x16 riser had a 4 pin connector, but only 2 pins were used.
With the Gen 4 x16, ADT reduced it to the 2-pin connector.

It's visible in the 2nd image of this post (also side note- seriously one of the most impressive things i've ever seen and I learned everything about m.2 gpu from this)

Log - RCC-eGPU2 | a tiny portable 0.6L Thunderbolt GTX 1650 eGPU

I was thinking about some new project for my low profile single slot YESTON GTX 1650 and came up with the idea to make another DIY Thunderbolt eGPU enclosure for it. parts used for this build: generic M.2 to TB3 40Gbps adapter ADT-LINK M.2 to PCIe 16x Riser Cable PICOBOX DCDC200 step down...

smallformfactor.net

Depending on how janky you want the build to be, you can either add another brick just for the GPU (or upgrade to 240w 19v Gan brick and split it)+ use a picobox or hdplex dc-dc / or use a single 12v psu + a Y-splitter like you are planning.

Really useful info thanks, as ever @msystems
Janky? Not a problem, my 1050Ti is rocking a lot of jank already!

Depending on the dimensions of your GPU, something like a MeanWell UHP-200-12 might be a near ideal PSU solution. Slim and long, delivers 200W with modest cooling needs, and very good quality. You'll need some sort of load switch for the GPU though, or just a manual switch to cut its power when the PC isn't on so you don't risk its fans running all the time.

Thanks @Valantar, this is a new MeanWell to me, not something I've come across before.
My 1050Ti is shortish with an overall length of about 145mm thanks to its short heatsink that doesn't extend beyond the rear of the PCB.

There's also this https://www.eospower.com/WLP350

Confirmed to work by Curiositys build

Another new one to me, looks similar to the MeanWell RPS

I see that the HP PSUs I queried on the other thread have a good track history, with Guryhwa having modded them

 

[Arboreal]

I have now found a 200W HP PSU at last, after only seeing the 160W variant on UK ebay for months.
It seems to have yellow, black and one green wire which I take are 12v ground and sense respectively.
I now need to decide how to use that output, maybe re plug it using GPU PCIe connectors or EPS connectors into a Y splitter.
At 30GBP it's a less expensive experiment than the Mean Well 12v units that now seem to go for 2 or 3 times that price.

 

[CC Ricers]

Hey, I'm replying to your comment you posted in my other thread, regarding the 160W HP PSU that I have. I currently am not using it, but I still have it. If you recall from that Slim Machine build log, the wires were de-pinned and put into a PEG 6-pin connector (except for the green sense wire) and used it just to power the GPU.

I had not tried powering a whole PC with it, but with a 1050 Ti it should be possible so long as you don't overvolt. The only reason I didn't use that PSU for the entire board is that I lack the a 12v DC plug-in board like Pico PSU or J-Hack, but if you have one, it would probably work. It would require re-pinning the 12v and ground wires to the appropriate connector that fits into your plug-in board.