This was the hardest build I've ever done. You really have to be patient, set aside an hour or two.
The only ITX build I had done previously was an Ncase M1 with a NH-U9S cpu fan.
Surprising or unexpected things:
- Cable routing is frustrating. You really need to get thin and flexible PSU cables. Custom length cables are better. Forget sleeved cables.
- Asetek 645LT's very soft metal. I stripped 2 screw holes.
- Back M.2 SSD overheating causing "imminent failure" report. It needed a 3mm aluminium heatsink.
- AIO pump noise. It's just a little surprise, coming from a U9S.
Installation order that worked for me was Case Fan > Mobo > Front Drive > AIO > PSU > GPU.
Here's what I did:
The only ITX build I had done previously was an Ncase M1 with a NH-U9S cpu fan.
Surprising or unexpected things:
- Cable routing is frustrating. You really need to get thin and flexible PSU cables. Custom length cables are better. Forget sleeved cables.
- Asetek 645LT's very soft metal. I stripped 2 screw holes.
- Back M.2 SSD overheating causing "imminent failure" report. It needed a 3mm aluminium heatsink.
- AIO pump noise. It's just a little surprise, coming from a U9S.
Installation order that worked for me was Case Fan > Mobo > Front Drive > AIO > PSU > GPU.
Here's what I did:
1. Install 92mm fan under the motherboard.
2. Don't install the rear I/O cover. It makes the mobo installation harder, and the temps without the cover would be better anyways.
You need all the help you can get to reduce the temps for this case.
3. Mount the motherboard with the AIO CPU mount installed. If you have an M.2 SSD at the back, make sure to get a 3mm heatsink for it.
Without the heatsink, it overheated for me, and reported an "imminent failure" error.
4. Install the front drive now since the mounting for the front drive will be blocked by the PSU.
5. Install the 92mm fan to the Asetek 645LT AIO in a pull configuration.
Then, remove the two front bottom case cover clips, and install the AIO radiator to the case. Use the HDD cage screws to mount the AIO to the case.
Be careful and patient with the 645LT the metal used is very soft and the screw threads are very easily stripped.
I stripped a screw hole on the radiator, and even one thumb screw that mounts to the CPU.
6. Install all cables to the PSU. Unsleeved cables is must. It's better if you have custom length cables.
I followed a guide and shortened the SATA power cable, you just needed cable cutters/scissors and no other tools. I plan to get custom cables later on.
Routing the cables was a real pain. In order to make it easy, I had to unscrew the top case frame.
While I had to be careful as the frame isn't structurally sound, it makes the routing of the cables much easier.
7. Install the PSU to the upper case frame. I had to push down and pull the PSU cables to the side while repositioning the case frame part. Once the cables are bent routed sufficiently and the case frame is positioned correctly, I screwed back all the screws for the case frame. I also connected the 24 pin cable to the motherboard. If you could only get one custom cable, get the 24 pin cable.
8. Screw the AIO to the CPU mounts. Make sure tubes for the AIO comes out at the 12 o'clock and the 1 o'clock position. So that the tubes don't bend the side of the case. And again, the 645LT metal used is very soft and the screw threads are very easily stripped.
The AIO tubes go over the RAM, so forget tall RGB RAMs, use low profile memory such as the Corsair LPX.
8. Install the GPU.
9. Connect all the PSU cables to their ports. For my situation I had to cut the plastic clip on the CPU power cable since it hit the bottom case fan.
Some additional cable bending for non-custom length cables, so that the cables don't push and make the case side covers bulge out.
10. Close up the case, connect the monitor, mouse, keyboard, power, etc.
11. ?????
12. Profit!
2. Don't install the rear I/O cover. It makes the mobo installation harder, and the temps without the cover would be better anyways.
You need all the help you can get to reduce the temps for this case.
3. Mount the motherboard with the AIO CPU mount installed. If you have an M.2 SSD at the back, make sure to get a 3mm heatsink for it.
Without the heatsink, it overheated for me, and reported an "imminent failure" error.
4. Install the front drive now since the mounting for the front drive will be blocked by the PSU.
5. Install the 92mm fan to the Asetek 645LT AIO in a pull configuration.
Then, remove the two front bottom case cover clips, and install the AIO radiator to the case. Use the HDD cage screws to mount the AIO to the case.
Be careful and patient with the 645LT the metal used is very soft and the screw threads are very easily stripped.
I stripped a screw hole on the radiator, and even one thumb screw that mounts to the CPU.
6. Install all cables to the PSU. Unsleeved cables is must. It's better if you have custom length cables.
I followed a guide and shortened the SATA power cable, you just needed cable cutters/scissors and no other tools. I plan to get custom cables later on.
Routing the cables was a real pain. In order to make it easy, I had to unscrew the top case frame.
While I had to be careful as the frame isn't structurally sound, it makes the routing of the cables much easier.
7. Install the PSU to the upper case frame. I had to push down and pull the PSU cables to the side while repositioning the case frame part. Once the cables are bent routed sufficiently and the case frame is positioned correctly, I screwed back all the screws for the case frame. I also connected the 24 pin cable to the motherboard. If you could only get one custom cable, get the 24 pin cable.
8. Screw the AIO to the CPU mounts. Make sure tubes for the AIO comes out at the 12 o'clock and the 1 o'clock position. So that the tubes don't bend the side of the case. And again, the 645LT metal used is very soft and the screw threads are very easily stripped.
The AIO tubes go over the RAM, so forget tall RGB RAMs, use low profile memory such as the Corsair LPX.
8. Install the GPU.
9. Connect all the PSU cables to their ports. For my situation I had to cut the plastic clip on the CPU power cable since it hit the bottom case fan.
Some additional cable bending for non-custom length cables, so that the cables don't push and make the case side covers bulge out.
10. Close up the case, connect the monitor, mouse, keyboard, power, etc.
11. ?????
12. Profit!
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