Cooling 7700K hitting 100C in DAN case :/

Elerek

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jul 17, 2017
228
165
You can also remove the heatsink on the chipset and put some smaller but more functional ones in it's place to get more airflow out of the cpu heatsink
 

pakalolo

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Mar 1, 2018
14
1
I completely disassembled everything, re-applied new thermal paste, and carefully installed everything again.
Auto Overclocking is disabled, and for testing purposes I've set the CPU fan curve to be at 100% any hotter than 40C.
Unfortunately my CPU did not come with the stock cooler :/
This time around I'm idling at 32C with standard sidepanels, and 35C with the DAN window kits.
When under any heavy load, I'm now reaching 85C with standard sidepanels and 92C with window kits.

So it seems this complete disassembly and reassembly actually made a difference! Maybe the cooler wasnt sitting properly or just needed a new application of thermal paste.
I'm still a bit concerned about hitting 90C+ with the window kits :/
The standard sidepanels are extremely close to the CPU fan, thus causing turbulence. This is making the fan sound extremely loud...
Whilst using the window kit, the fan is completely quiet (window kits gives an additional few centimeters between sidepanel and fan), I've heard others have this issue with the C7 on the v1 case.

Again, thank you for the support! Any additional tips are welcomed :)

Oh, and here's some terrible quality photos showing the build. You can see in some of the images, the mobo chipset, the tall RAM, and the sound card are causing that "boxed in" effect I mentioned earlier in the thread.
At some point I'll get custom cables from CableMods and take some glamor shots :p

 
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pakalolo

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Mar 1, 2018
14
1
You can also remove the heatsink on the chipset and put some smaller but more functional ones in it's place to get more airflow out of the cpu heatsink

ooooh this an interesting idea, do you know where I could find these? Or would I need to manufacture it?
 

tinyitx

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 25, 2018
2,279
2,338
Pic 1 of those 13 pics shows that the C7 is mounted with its fins parallel to the RAM.
I would suggest you reinstall the C7 with a rotation of 90 degrees, so that its fins run perpendicular to the RAM. The reason is that, in such orientation, the air will go through the fins and then exhaust (guided by the direction of the fins) towards the motherboard's rear I/O. This is advantageous because, of the 4 directions of the ''boxed in'' , this direction should give the least obstruction, especially when you remove the Asus I/O shield. Hot air should be able to escape (and not recirculated back) much more easily.

If you look at the pics of the 2 setups (with Maximus VIII Impact + Cryorig C7) in the two links in my above posts, you will see this the how they setup the orientation of the C7.

My guess is you will see 5C (at least) drop in temp. Try it and see if this works.

PS A guy with Maximus VII Impact + 4790K + Cryorig C7 also setups in this orientation.
 

pakalolo

Chassis Packer
Original poster
Mar 1, 2018
14
1
Pic 1 of those 13 pics shows that the C7 is mounted with its fins parallel to the RAM.
I would suggest you reinstall the C7 with a rotation of 90 degrees, so that its fins run perpendicular to the RAM. The reason is that, in such orientation, the air will go through the fins and then exhaust (guided by the direction of the fins) towards the motherboard's rear I/O. This is advantageous because, of the 4 directions of the ''boxed in'' , this direction should give the least obstruction, especially when you remove the Asus I/O shield. Hot air should be able to escape (and not recirculated back) much more easily.

If you look at the pics of the 2 setups (with Maximus VIII Impact + Cryorig C7) in the two links in my above posts, you will see this the how they setup the orientation of the C7.

My guess is you will see 5C (at least) drop in temp. Try it and see if this works.

PS A guy with Maximus VII Impact + 4790K + Cryorig C7 also setups in this orientation.

I originally planned to, and did in fact attempt to install the C7 with fins perpendicular to the RAM as you suggested. The problem here, is when the C7 is installed with fins perpendicular to the RAM, the fins actually are touching and pushing against the RAM modules (I imagine because the RAM heatsinks are so large). This caused the RAM modules to lean in one direction. I can't imagine this is good for the motherboard's RAM slots, nor is it good to transfer that heat directly to the RAM heat sinks. :(
With the C7 installed in it's current state (fins parallel to RAM), at least I'm getting a few millimeters of space between the RAM modules and the CPU heat sink itself.

Your thoughts?

P.S. the video you included is actually one of the videos I based my build off of :p
 

tinyitx

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 25, 2018
2,279
2,338
Hmmm...I thought both Intel Socket 1151 and C7 have a square layout and so orienting the heatsink in either direction should have no physical difference. I mean, I cannot imagine the fins would touch/push against the RAM when the C7 installed in one direction but would not in another direction. But, I will take your words for it as you have the motherboard/heatsink/RAM in front of you.

As far as the hot air from the C7 blowing towards the RAM, this is not a big deal. Actually, I think it might even help cooling the RAM! (because the temp of the air is going to be lower than the temp of the heatsink, I reckon).
Anyway, if the RAM has physical contact and is being pushed, then this is a no-go.

(If you have nothing to do and time to kill, you can re-orient the C7 as I said above and, at the same time, remove one RAM stick to avoid contact. Then, run a few test to check the temp to see how much a temp drop is. Just for the sake of learning.)
 

shreebles

Chassis Packer
Feb 11, 2018
13
3
Undervolt.
Consider delidding and repasting (or look for someone who can).
Also, I wouldn't recommend K CPUs in cases like these, it's almost impossible to get good cooling in this formfactor.
Source: Have just moved my 4790k from a DanCase A4 to a larger Thermaltake Core V1.
 

Kineticman

Caliper Novice
Mar 18, 2018
22
8
Hello.

Undervolting the cpu will help quite a bit. My 7700k is undervolted to 1.15V and the temps are acceptable I get 38°-41° idle and 78°-80° with game play (not stress tests).

Try it before delidding Not the best numbers, but better than your current situation.

Also I have both the LP 53 and the C7. Both perform within 2% error margin of each other.
 
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shreebles

Chassis Packer
Feb 11, 2018
13
3
Also I have both the LP 53 and the C7. Both perform within 2% error margin of each other.

Strange, my results were much different. Did you use the stock cooler from the LP53?
I used the Noctua NF-A9X14 PWM on the LP53 and the result was cooler and much, much quieter.
 

Kineticman

Caliper Novice
Mar 18, 2018
22
8
Strange, my results were much different. Did you use the stock cooler from the LP53?
I used the Noctua NF-A9X14 PWM on the LP53 and the result was cooler and much, much quieter.

Oops sorry forgot to mention this Yea I'm using the stock fan I thought about changing it but the mounts seem proprietary.

I'd like to change the fans for better thermals. How exactly do you attach the Noctua fan to this cooler
 

shreebles

Chassis Packer
Feb 11, 2018
13
3
Oops sorry forgot to mention this Yea I'm using the stock fan I thought about changing it but the mounts seem proprietary.

I'd like to change the fans for better thermals. How exactly do you attach the Noctua fan to this cooler

The mounts are proprietary, yes. Simply use cable ties to attach the fan.
This combo is recommended even by Dan himself as it's the most powerful most quiet cooling solution for the Dan A4 Case which has very limited space for a CPU cooler (the LP53 won't fit with the stock fan)

PS: Dan's own project for a new "best case fan" for the A4 has been halted as of today:

https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...sstarker-low-profile-kuehler-eingestellt.html

Therefore, at the moment it seems impossible to beat the LP53+Noctua Combo.
 
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Tajtishan

Case Bender
Aug 16, 2018
2
0
Your problem is probably the heat from the open air blower gigabyte 1080ti and closed windows panels. There is no place for air to escape in a quick manner, so temps should hit 100c after constant circulation of hot air from the gpu, board and cpus. Think best thing you can do without a delid, is get an exhaust fan to blow hot air from the bottom out the case, or somehow mount an exhaust case fan somewhere.
 

jaagdijot

Trash Compacter
Jan 29, 2018
52
10
Your problem is probably the heat from the open air blower gigabyte 1080ti and closed windows panels. There is no place for air to escape in a quick manner, so temps should hit 100c after constant circulation of hot air from the gpu, board and cpus. Think best thing you can do without a delid, is get an exhaust fan to blow hot air from the bottom out the case, or somehow mount an exhaust case fan somewhere.

I feel like in the DAN A4 thread on hardforum someone tested this. The non-reference cards ended up performing better than the blower style/FE nvidia cards in the case?

I also recommend getting the LP53 and zip-tie the noctua fan if you don’t want to delid. You’ll probably be fine and won’t have to undervolt/underclock.