Recent content by duynguyenle

Alternately, running clean unsleeved 16AWG stranded wires with PFTE or silicone jackets would give you back a lot of clearance

I saw this new build from UFDTech with the older V2 case :)

I've been partial to HWLabs rads for my previous builds, but I agree with Nouvolo, if you're doing a build in a challenging case, the Nexxos V2 builds with the end tanks having ports on both sides plus a fifth port that you could use for drain or bleeding air when filling the loop is really a...

DDC pumps don't dump the heat from the pump electronics into the coolant, unlike the D5, that's why a good heatsink is important for DDC-based loops.

The colour coatings came out really nice. Regarding the pre-orders, will there be a hard limit on numbers or will you take as many orders as there are?

Nor was it my intention to discourage the OP. More options are always better, and there are only so many ways you can stuff components into a box!

ZS Cases also makes a pretty decent case in this arrangement (ZS-A4DC series) I think the latest version is available from here: https://zscases.com/products/zs-a4dc-v3

Absolute madlad

I think it's fairly common knowledge (probably all the way back to the MartinsLiquidLab days) that the DDC pumps run hot, and it's pretty much a requirement to fit a heatsink to the pump electronics if you do plan on using a DDC long-term. The D5 does indeed gets its reliability reputation from...

Oh I see, I didn't realise the custom plate doesn't have that portion. Looks like it could potentially be added back in though. In any case, isn't it still physically connected to the rest of the block? Looks like the whole block is a single billet, the VRM pass is not a separate portion. In...

That dark grey coating is quite a looker! Can't wait to see some build photos

Sorry I think I am clearly missing the picture here (or mis-interpreting it), but it clearly looks like the inlet splits off and cools the VRM to the left side before joining back up to the primary stream which then goes to the GPU fins. Am I fundamentally misunderstanding how this waterblock works?

Here in the UK it's fairly easy to get affordable at-home nickel plating kits (they're quite popular for cosmetic re-finishing vintage motorbike/car parts). They can get pretty damn near factory mirror finish with a bit of practice. The downside is that I don't know how well the plating holds...

Nice review. Lots of uninformed comments on the video though, about the price point, none of them really considering the fact that you're a one man show who sources manufacturing locally and does not have the benefit of large volume production, higher advertising budget + lower cost...

I think copper tubing would look good, but you probably will need to clear-coat them first as they tarnish pretty readily (at least here in the damp British Midlands). My vote would actually to polish/clear coat the exposed copper bits on your block and maybe go with polished nickel coated...