Log Version 2.0 (and final) of my Metalfish S3 build

[inSparks]

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Preface

This is version 2.0 of my Metalfish S3 build. Through a handful of challenges, I wasn't quite ready to make it my main case for a few reasons:

1. Sourcing a good PSU
2. Sourcing an RTX 2070 that might fit
3. Making said RTX 2070 actually fit, haha!

The build is now complete, and I am so happy to present my final completed Metalfish S3 build!

Main Parts List

Case:	Metalfish S3 from Aliexpress
PSU:	Modded Enhance ENP-7660B from Geeek
CPU:	Ryzen 5 2600
Cooler:	Noctua NH-L9A heatsink modded with a 92mm RGB fan from a Coolermaster Masterair G200P
RAM:	16GB (8x2) Crucial Ballistix RGB BL2K8G32C16U4BL 3200 MHz
Motherboard:	Gigabyte B450i Aorus Pro Wifi
Graphics Card:	HP RTX 2070 OEM L34256-001 (£300 Used from eBay) Techpowerup overview
Storage 1	Corsair Force Series MP510 240 GB NVMe PCIe Gen3 Force Series MP510 240 GB NVMe PCIe Gen3
Storage 2	Crucial MX500 1TB SATA SSD MX600 1TB SATA SSD

Challenges (& How I Solved Them)

The First and obvious challenge (once I had sourced it) was the GPU. While the GPU itself does fit comfortably inside the 195mm limit of the S3, the problem was that the 8-pin power is right on the end of the card. As the shroud doesn't really extend from the PCB, there was no clearance for a standard 8-pin connector. This was solved by ordering an inverted 8-Pin super low profile adapter from Kareon Kables. This dispenses all the plastic housing and the bare pins are bent upwards, allowing the connection to be made and for the cable to come out vertically. As you can see from the photos, it was still a tight fit, and was right on the limit but it worked!

Low profile 8-pin PCIE Power from Kareon Kables​

The second challenge was the ENP-7660B. Unlike most modded PSUs, the modular connectors are oriented horizontally, so this left precious little room. By plugging in most of the cables before installing the PSU, I was still able to install it within 5 mins or so with a bit of careful persuasion.

The third challenge was my mistake. I should have ordered a 400mm 4+4pin CPU power instead of 300mm. Luckily I had an extension laying around although it was still quite long.

Comments on the build

Overall though, the S3 is an absolute joy of a case to build in. Despite being only just shy of 5L, cable management was a breeze. It's one of those cases where despite its cheap appearance, it's thoughtfully designed and can be built very easily in half an hour or so.

Noise, Thermals, & Performance

Noise wise, I've noted this build at idle seems to be around 36 decibels up close to the case and about 28 decibels at a comfortable 3 feet away. Under load it seems to raise by about 8 decibels in either position so at a normal distance that's about 35-40 decibels.

Thermally it performs okay. 40 on the CPU and 28 on the GPU at idle, and at load that raises to about 71 on the CPU and 65-70 on the GPU. That's with GPU clocks limited to 1800MHz and undervolted to 850mV with no appreciable loss of performance.

The PSU is getting a little toasty though. Likely because it came modded with a Noctua. If anyone knows what the stock fan is on the 7660B please let me know. I'd like to source one.

I haven't had too much of a chance to test the performance yet, however I did some superposition benchmarks and that was coming in at 12066 at 1080p High.

Let me know what you think! Thanks.

 

[Analogue Blacksheep]

How are you finding the modded GEEEK PSU? Would you recommend it?

 

[n.tesla]

Congrats on your build! I'm waiting on my K39 V2 case being delivered so always keen to see similar builds. My 7660b arrived a couple days ago. I'm not taking the panel off it just now as need to steam a void warranty sticker off but I done a wee googly and peeked through the vent to confirm (as best as I can tell) that the fan you're looking for is an ADDA AD0412XB-C51 as seen here.

 

[inSparks]

Congrats on your build! I'm waiting on my K39 V2 case being delivered so always keen to see similar builds. My 7660b arrived a couple days ago. I'm not taking the panel off it just now as need to steam a void warranty sticker off but I done a wee googly and peeked through the vent to confirm (as best as I can tell) that the fan you're looking for is an ADDA AD0412XB-C51 as seen here.

Interesting thanks. As it turns out I had an old Enhance 400W server PSU in an old eGPU (no CPU power or SATA etc, very bare bones). I have extracted the the fan from that, which turns out to be an ADDA AD0412HB-C50. 12V 0.11A. Do you think this might be similar enough?

 

[inSparks]

How are you finding the modded GEEEK PSU? Would you recommend it?

The GEEEK modded PSU is very well done to be honest with you. The Modular connectors are well isolated from the back of the PSU using standoffs, so the cables will never 100% obscure the venting, which is nice. The only downside is that the cable connectors extend horizontally from the PSU instead of vertical like we see with most modular flex PSUs, meaning its quite a bit longer than normal. It only just fits in the Metalfish S3, so it absolutely will not fit in the K39 or Velka 3. If you're thinking about building in those cases, look elsewhere for your 7660B.

 

[n.tesla]

Interesting thanks. As it turns out I had an old Enhance 400W server PSU in an old eGPU (no CPU power or SATA etc, very bare bones). I have extracted the the fan from that, which turns out to be an ADDA AD0412HB-C50. 12V 0.11A. Do you think this might be similar enough?

Table 1. 40x40x20mm fan specifications and respective data sheets. Values not necessarily directly comparable as data sheet origins differ.

Model No.	Rated Voltage (v)	Rated Current (A)	Rated Power (W)	Rated Speed (rpm)	Max Airflow (CMM)	Max Air Pressure (mmAq)	Noise Level (dB/A)	Data sheet Link
Noctua A4x20 FLX	12​	0.05​	0.6​	5000​	0.157​	2.26​	14.9​	noctua.at
AD0412LB-C50	12​	0.07​	0.84​	6200​	0.197​	4.71​	25.0​	eldis.de
AD0412MB-C50	12​	0.08​	0.96​	6900​	0.219​	6.15​	28.5​	eldis.de
AD0412HB-C50	12​	0.10​	1.20​	7800​	0.253​	7.49​	31.9​	eldis.de
AD0412UB-C50	12​	0.14​	1.68​	8500​	0.270​	8.27​	36.1​	eldis.de
AD0412XB-C51	12​	0.20​	2.40​	8500+​	0.311​	7.01​	37.5 (41.5 max)​	adda.com.tw

From this data we can see that the AD0412HB-C50 will yield a 61.15% increase in maximum airflow and a 231.42% increase in maximum air pressure over the Noctua A4x20.

The AD0412XB-C51 sees a further increase of 22.93% maximum airflow over the AD0412HB-C50 but has a 6.85% decrease in maximum air pressure. However, since the data points are derived from different origins, we can not be sure these metrics are directly comparable. i.e. pinch of salt required.

In conclusion, I would say that the ADDA fan you have will be a massive improvement in terms of cooling performance while still staying very quiet even at maximum fan speed. It may not perform quite as well as the AD0412XB-C51 but it will almost certainly be quieter. Just keep an eye on temps, especially if you intend on doing some crazy overclocking although this would not be recommended given your current cooler limitations.

 

[inSparks]

Table 1. 40x40x20mm fan specifications and respective data sheets. Values not necessarily directly comparable as data sheet origins differ.

Model No.	Rated Voltage (v)	Rated Current (A)	Rated Power (W)	Rated Speed (rpm)	Max Airflow (CMM)	Max Air Pressure (mmAq)	Noise Level (dB/A)	Data sheet Link
Noctua A4x20 FLX	12​	0.05​	0.6​	5000​	0.157​	2.26​	14.9​	noctua.at
AD0412LB-C50	12​	0.07​	0.84​	6200​	0.197​	4.71​	25.0​	eldis.de
AD0412MB-C50	12​	0.08​	0.96​	6900​	0.219​	6.15​	28.5​	eldis.de
AD0412HB-C50	12​	0.10​	1.20​	7800​	0.253​	7.49​	31.9​	eldis.de
AD0412UB-C50	12​	0.14​	1.68​	8500​	0.270​	8.27​	36.1​	eldis.de
AD0412XB-C51	12​	0.20​	2.40​	8500+​	0.311​	7.01​	37.5 (41.5 max)​	adda.com.tw

From this data we can see that the AD0412HB-C50 will yield a 61.15% increase in maximum airflow and a 231.42% increase in maximum air pressure over the Noctua A4x20.

The AD0412XB-C51 sees a further increase of 22.93% maximum airflow over the AD0412HB-C50 but has a 6.85% decrease in maximum air pressure. However, since the data points are derived from different origins, we can not be sure these metrics are directly comparable. i.e. pinch of salt required.

In conclusion, I would say that the ADDA fan you have will be a massive improvement in terms of cooling performance while still staying very quiet even at maximum fan speed. It may not perform quite as well as the AD0412XB-C51 but it will almost certainly be quieter. Just keep an eye on temps, especially if you intend on doing some crazy overclocking although this would not be recommended given your current cooler limitations.

That's awesome data, thanks for that. It's enough of an improvement over the Noctua A4x20 to warrant a test fit at least. While the Noctua is very quiet, I do have concerns over its cooling potential in such a dense PSU. I don't think the PSU is overheating per se, but it is radiating a lot upwards to the GPU area which is affecting GPU thermals. This leads me to think there is quite a bit of hot air just not being moved by the Noctua which is just finding its own path upwards.

I'll give the ADDA a try and see how that goes.

 

[n.tesla]

That's awesome data, thanks for that. It's enough of an improvement over the Noctua A4x20 to warrant a test fit at least. While the Noctua is very quiet, I do have concerns over its cooling potential in such a dense PSU. I don't think the PSU is overheating per se, but it is radiating a lot upwards to the GPU area which is affecting GPU thermals. This leads me to think there is quite a bit of hot air just not being moved by the Noctua which is just finding its own path upwards.

I'll give the ADDA a try and see how that goes.

You're welcome. I admit I got a bit carried away, it's probably my brain pretending it's real study as a means of procrastination.
I might make a thread to be a sort of repository for this information, not sure if enough people would find it useful or not to warrant it though.

I have seen multiple reports of the Noctua A4x20 not being enough to cool the 7660b and looking at this graph, it's pretty clear to see why.

One way to stop that warm air from the PSU being recycled by the CPU and GPU coolers would be to add a fan duct/shroud creating a direct tunnel from the case panel inwards. I think that's the route I'll be taking anyway.

 

[inSparks]

You're welcome. I admit I got a bit carried away, it's probably my brain pretending it's real study as a means of procrastination.
I might make a thread to be a sort of repository for this information, not sure if enough people would find it useful or not to warrant it though.

I have seen multiple reports of the Noctua A4x20 not being enough to cool the 7660b and looking at this graph, it's pretty clear to see why.

One way to stop that warm air from the PSU being recycled by the CPU and GPU coolers would be to add a fan duct/shroud creating a direct tunnel from the case panel inwards. I think that's the route I'll be taking anyway.

Sort of like what Silverstone do with the plastic panels under the vents on the FX-350 / FX-500 ?

Edit: I see what you mean. GPU /CPU fan shroud. Not sure how necessary that may be. CPU thermals are fine but the GPU is bearing the brunt. And it already right up near the vent. I just need to tame the PSU I think.

 

[n.tesla]

Sort of like what Silverstone do with the plastic panels under the vents on the FX-350 / FX-500 ?

Edit: I see what you mean. GPU /CPU fan shroud. Not sure how necessary that may be. CPU thermals are fine but the GPU is bearing the brunt. And it already right up near the vent. I just need to tame the PSU I think.

Oh it absolutely is not necessary, however I want my build to be as quiet as possible. In the long run I imagine I might get custom panels made that perfectly fit the shrouds I make for the Black Ridge and GPU.

I've seen some pretty drastic temp drops from other users using ducts/shrouds, dropping 10°C from load temps just by throwing in a bit of cardboard/tape. If that 10°C means my fans can spin at a lower RPM then it's off to quiet gaming bliss town for me!
Or it leaves the option of a higher performance overhead at the same noise levels.

 

[inSparks]

Oh it absolutely is not necessary, however I want my build to be as quiet as possible. In the long run I imagine I might get custom panels made that perfectly fit the shrouds I make for the Black Ridge and GPU.

I've seen some pretty drastic temp drops from other users using ducts/shrouds, dropping 10°C from load temps just by throwing in a bit of cardboard/tape. If that 10°C means my fans can spin at a lower RPM then it's off to quiet gaming bliss town for me!
Or it leaves the option of a higher performance overhead at the same noise levels.

I tried to do the fan swap but thats a no-go for me. This is due to how they've modified the fan.

Its heavily modded. They've added a resistor to allow it to spin up properly:

And the fan itself appears to be soldered to the board.


Now I can either clip off the Noctua and solder the ADDA in its place, or use a different PSU. I do have a Silverstone FX500 I can use, so I might just install the ADDA to that and call it done.

 

[inSparks]

Actually I think with my build the FX-500 might well be a better choice. I think it will run cooler because my build will sit more consistently inside its efficiency curve. It'll be a bit more cables to manage but I might just remove the ones I dont need and heatshrink the ends.

 

[n.tesla]

Actually I think with my build the FX-500 might well be a better choice. I think it will run cooler because my build will sit more consistently inside its efficiency curve. It'll be a bit more cables to manage but I might just remove the ones I dont need and heatshrink the ends.

There probably won't be much between them in terms of effiency since they both work at over 90% effiency at 50% load. It'll come down to your use case and idle:load ratio.
As you have already discovered, you can either desolder the fan cable of the 7660b and resolder appropriate cable or snip it and wire up a 2 pin connector.
I would do this anyway otherwise you're sitting on a fairly useless PSU in it's current form.

However :

The Silverstone FX-500 uses a 40x40x15mm fan and I'm guessing the ADDA fan from your ,presumably, 7140b is 20mm and so will not fit.
You could go ahead and find a decent 15mm fan such as one of these ones from ADDA, they even have a 15mm version of the AD0412HB-D51 which may be the best option out of the ADDA fans at least.

If you decide to mod the FX-500 then there's this teardown and fan replacement guide on reddit that you might find useful. Looks like there's a handy 2 pin slot so no soldering required. They use the Noctua 10mm in the guide and leave a gap which is a pretty bad move so don't do that.

WARNING:
I'm sure you're aware, but if you go sticking your fingers or screwdrivers in about the capacitors in those PSUs and you make an electrical connection then it's lights out/game over/death.

I'm not saying don't do it, just be careful.

 

[inSparks]

There probably won't be much between them in terms of effiency since they both work at over 90% effiency at 50% load. It'll come down to your use case and idle:load ratio.
As you have already discovered, you can either desolder the fan cable of the 7660b and resolder appropriate cable or snip it and wire up a 2 pin connector.
I would do this anyway otherwise you're sitting on a fairly useless PSU in it's current form.

However :

The Silverstone FX-500 uses a 40x40x15mm fan and I'm guessing the ADDA fan from your ,presumably, 7140b is 20mm and so will not fit.
You could go ahead and find a decent 15mm fan such as one of these ones from ADDA, they even have a 15mm version of the AD0412HB-D51 which may be the best option out of the ADDA fans at least.

If you decide to mod the FX-500 then there's this teardown and fan replacement guide on reddit that you might find useful. Looks like there's a handy 2 pin slot so no soldering required. They use the Noctua 10mm in the guide and leave a gap which is a pretty bad move so don't do that.

WARNING:
I'm sure you're aware, but if you go sticking your fingers or screwdrivers in about the capacitors in those PSUs and you make an electrical connection then it's lights out/game over/death.

I'm not saying don't do it, just be careful.

Yep I discovered the FX-500 uses a 15mm fan. Curiously as it has a very loud stock fan, I decided to throw caution to the wind and try a Noctua A4x10 I had new in-box. Now on paper it''s even worse than the A4x20 I have in the 7660B and don't get me wrong the PSU does still get quite warm. But there seems to be less heat radiating up from the PSU, so I don't know whether its the internal layout of the the FX-500 that lends itself better to the Noctua swap or whether it really is generating less heat overall.

Rather than hovering between 78 and 80 after 10 mins or so of gaming, the GPU is "only" reaching 74-75c this time around. Which I don't think is entirely unreasonable for an RTX 2070 in such a small case.

Now I don't know how hot the FX-500 will end up getting after 6 hours of gaming, but I'll have to keep an eye on it and take a look at those other fans.

By the way, on the 7660B there appears to be a PCB set vertically with a 2-pin socket. Is that presumably where the stock fan goes? If so, do you reckon it's still wired up?

 

[n.tesla]

Yep I discovered the FX-500 uses a 15mm fan. Curiously as it has a very loud stock fan, I decided to throw caution to the wind and try a Noctua A4x10 I had new in-box. Now on paper it''s even worse than the A4x20 I have in the 7660B and don't get me wrong the PSU does still get quite warm. But there seems to be less heat radiating up from the PSU, so I don't know whether its the internal layout of the the FX-500 that lends itself better to the Noctua swap or whether it really is generating less heat overall.

Rather than hovering between 78 and 80 after 10 mins or so of gaming, the GPU is "only" reaching 74-75c this time around. Which I don't think is entirely unreasonable for an RTX 2070 in such a small case.

Now I don't know how hot the FX-500 will end up getting after 6 hours of gaming, but I'll have to keep an eye on it and take a look at those other fans.

By the way, on the 7660B there appears to be a PCB set vertically with a 2-pin socket. Is that presumably where the stock fan goes? If so, do you reckon it's still wired up?

Whatever works I guess, I wonder if the polarity is reversed and it's now acting as an intake rather than exhaust? Use some sturdy tape or something to plug the hole that's left around the fan though as you will have lost a ton of air pressure with it pulling in air through the side/top of the PSU case.