Ninja CAD Station Build Log

ninjanymo

Caliper Novice
Original poster
Jun 16, 2018
21
13
Logs:
#1 - Initial Commit - 15-Nov-18

#2 - Power Design - 19-Nov-18

Introduction:
This bulldog covers the development of my personal work-station. It’s a project I’ve thought about for a long time and had to get going very spontaneously.

I'll keep the main post as the introduction while maintaining the current state of the project at the bottom.

The current Use Case:

I’m on the last year of my studies, and I’m writing my thesis for Revolve NTNU, a Formula Student team at the Norwegian Institute of Technology and Science. The thesis will (hopefully) cover the development of an embedded system, starting at schematic design and ending at a working programmed board deployed and tested in the race-car.

This mostly involves working with Altium Designer (Windows only) for PCB-design and then Vivado (Windows/Linux) to generate code for said board. Altium does render PCB designs using DirectX although most actions seems to be taxing on CPU and memory while Vivado is used for logic synthesis («compilation» of a HDL such as VHDL or Verilog) which is extremely computationally heavy.

Other than that it’s use cases such as *intense* browsing, writing code (literally text editing) and casual work in Lightroom, Photoshop, SolidWorks and FreeCAD and I need to do all this on at least two 1080p monitors.

The future Use Case:
I figured that my future «professional» use case will somewhat reflect the current considering that it covers what I’m educated in as well as what I want to work with in the future.

I do also plan to game on this thing so it’s important that I can add a graphics card later. I’ve always used a GTXx60-sometimes-Ti, and if I were to add a card it would be one of that calibre.

Finally once 4K movie torrents and super fast internet becomes a thing It should be able to handle that.

I’ll update these use cases if I identify something that is not already covered.

The Catch:
I’ve always been really into the process of building computers and once you’ve done it a few times it becomes easy unless you attach some catch to it. I’ve already been down the custom water-cooling path with hardline copper tubing and in my experience really complex things rarely become very practical.

This time the design should be minimalistic and super small form factor while staying practical.

My Solution:
Simple; an i5 in an ITX board powered by separate AC-DC and DC-DC power supply units.

Current State (19-Nov-18):

  • CPU: i5-8400
  • MB: Gigabyte B360N WIFI
  • RAM: 2x HyperX 8GB 2666MHz DDR4.

  • POWER: KMPKT Dynamo Mini + Mean Well UHP-200R-24.

  • COOLING: Noctua NH-L9i + cold Norwegian mountain air.

  • CASE: Wood + 4 screws.
 
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ninjanymo

Caliper Novice
Original poster
Jun 16, 2018
21
13
#1 - Initial Commit:
Exactly a month ago I rage quit my MacBook Air running Windows through parallels and decided to get a desktop Windows computer.

The Intel i5-8400 was recommended as versatile and cost-effective and the fact that it was sold out at all suppliers in the country (still is, one month later) except the local PC-hardware store looked promising. I ordered the Gigabyte B360N, two 8GB sticks of 2666MHz DDR4 RAM and the Noctua NH-L9i from my favorite supplier and picked up the CPU the morning after.

The motherboard’s big selling point was rear IO. Highlights include two HDMI ports for displays and two gigabit ethernet port as it’s always nice to have a free ethernet port for connecting to other devices such as a Raspberry Pi.

I didn’t give much though to the RAM. The i5-8400 specs rate it for 2666MHz DDR4 RAM so the choice fell on the HyperX 2666MHz 2x8GB kit due to cost and clean design.

At that time I was considering the NFC S4M and the Noctua NH-L9i is generally recommended for that case. I’ve experienced that pretty much any Noctua product performs extremely well and the exceptional build quality easily outweighs the cost. Thus I didn’t have any problems with the NH-L9i even if I knew I wouldn’t necessarily use it in the S4M.

For storage I had a 480GB 2.5" HyperX Savage SSD left from my previous desktop computer which I sold back in early 2017.

I knew I didn’t want to get a ATX power supply and both the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX and the KMPKT Dynamo Mini was out of stock so I put power on hold.

Two days later the parts arrived. I asked around and ended up borrowing a 550W ATX PSU and some scrap wood later I was up and running:
TRIGGER WARNING: EXTREMELY RAPID PROTOTYPE!

  • CPU: i5-8400
  • MB: Gigabyte B360N WIFI
  • RAM: 2x HyperX 8GB 2666MHz DDR4.

  • POWER: A friend's ATX 550W PSU.

  • COOLING: Noctua NH-L9i + cold Norwegian mountain air.

  • CASE: Wood + 4 screws.

It’s not pretty, but the Altium 3D PCB viewer (my current benchmark) is as smooth as it gets on a 60Hz display.

Note the extremely janky power switch (also doubles as nuclear launch switch) and the cathode which I found lying around at a time I coildn't help myself. Minimalistic right? It's gonna be good for contrast once I get this design further!;)

In the mean-time I've looked into the KMPKT European Dynamo Combo/360 Clearance Sale and Makerbeam, but more on that in the next post.
 
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confusis

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Im excited to see where this heads. A focused design goal like this is always a great thing.
 

ninjanymo

Caliper Novice
Original poster
Jun 16, 2018
21
13
I’m all about the aviation switch
I didn't have a front panel when I first got the build up and running, and people at the office kept looking at me weird for shorting the header to turn the computer on. Thus I decided to get the most obnouxious power switch I could find. I'm glad you like it, but I'm sorry to say it probably wont last long (minimalism and all you know).

Im excited to see where this heads. A focused design goal like this is always a great thing.
Precise design goals should be the starting point of any development process, so I'm happy to hear that you appreciate my effort!

Stay tuned for a way too long update later today!
 
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ninjanymo

Caliper Novice
Original poster
Jun 16, 2018
21
13
#2 - Power Design
If you think about it; most builds on here are mostly off-the-shelf parts in terms of the computing hardware. However, when it comes to power delivery we see all sort of crazy stuff such as Gury’s crazy 500W solutions with modded power bricks, builds with multiple Xbox PSUs crammed inside casings and so much more

Definitely not off-the-shelf stuff.

I wanted this update to be helpful for others and to encourage doing research on options and your use case before deciding on a design, so settle in!

The Power Budget:
I’ve been focusing on the i5-8400 and a GTXxx50/xx60 caliber GPU as I think its just the best fit for me (still miss my i5-2500k+GTX560Ti) and if you add it all up you find that modern hardware is awesome in terms of power consumption unless you intend to compute the meaning of life (that’s an FPGA-job anyways) or play Crysis in 4k @ >9000 FPS.

The 8400 is rated for 65W TDP, the GTX1060 for 120W and the GTX1050Ti for 75W. I wish that motherboard manufacturers would provide the power consumption of their boards, but based on anecdotal evidence I figured this out:

A 8400+1050Ti build in a Z370 motherboard (RGB probably enabled) draws 141W from the wall during gaming (Minimalistpc.com). Factor in the ~ 90% efficiency of the PSU they used (techpowerup.com) that equals to ~125W total system TDP.

By adding another 50 theoretical TDP-watts for the 1060 we end up at 175W, but let’s call it less than 200W including some overhead.

This really makes me wonder why there aren’t more commercial PSUs in the 200-300W range and thus how most modern pre-built computers are heavily over-specced.

Let’s shoutout a my go-to retailer’s compact pre-built: a Pentium G5400 + 1050 build sporting a 500W PSU although it would probably never reach 200W drawn from the wall.

I guess it’s always nice to run your PSU at <50% load, but honestly, I would rather have <50% the size.

The Options:
With a 200W budget, I didn’t find any suitable options among the smaller consumer SFX or ATX PSUs. There is always the jungle of server/industrial units which I barely entered before turning back.

When it comes to going small there is no doubt that the DC-DC units that fit directly into the ATX connector on the motherboard is the best approach. In that category you find the picoPSU, Gury’s Arch Deamon, HDPlex’s DC-ATX and KMPKT’s Dynamo Mini.

The picoPSU is automatically disqualified due running a yellow connector and green PCB in 2018.

Gury got a really cool thing going with his up to 500W DC-ATX units and although he is personally available on his Discord channel, it’s not so streamlined to purchase one of his units. I’m not saying that I wouldn’t recommend Gury. He’s a really nice guy, although probably very busy, and will personally help you customise your unit to the application.

That left me with HDPlex and KMPKT and it boiled down to availability: I don’t think I’ve ever witnessed the HDPlex DC-ATX being in stock. Similar story with the Dynamo Mini, although It’s really cool to see that the new revision is now available at SFFLab.

I then stumbled upon the KMPKT European Clearance Sale, and figured that I should go for it. Intense processing delays, some A-grade, honest customer service and a full refund later I had the Dynamo Mini (The previous revision, advertised as 160W) in-hand.

People might scratch their head here when I went for a 160W unit on a ~200W budget, but these units are advertised at 200W peak power and can handle ~200W builds. I had KMPKT and Josh from NFC pitch in on this in an earlier thread.

The AC-DC Solution:
All digital electronics are powered by Direct Current, or DC for short. From the wall, you get Alternating Current or AC for short. The two are fundamentally different in how they work and I suggest a quick look at Wikipedia to learn more.

That means that to power digital electronics, a conversion from AC to DC has to take place. We call this the AC-DC stage (someone shout at me if the terminology is wrong).

However the previous terms only say something about the current (measured in [A]mps) which is only one half of power (measured in [W]atts). The other half of power is voltage (measured in [V]olts), where you have P[W] = U[V] * I[A].

From the wall you get 110V to 240V AC depending on location. Now, a standard motherboard requires 12V, -12V, 5V and 3.3V DC.

It then follows that most computer PSUs has a AC-DC stage where 110V-240V AC is converted to a single DC voltage (i.e. 19.8V DC for most laptops), followed by a DC-DC stage that splits that single voltage into all the voltages the computer requires.

In a standard ATX PSU, both the AC-DC and DC-DC stage is contained within the same unit. However, what we see with many SFF builds is the same as we see with laptops: The two stages are split in different units. For laptops, the AC-DC stage is done by the external power brick, while the DC-DC stage is done by hardware inside the laptop.

In my case, the KMPKT Dynamo Mini provides the DC-DC stage, while the AC-DC stage is described after this spoiler.
To power the DC-ATX unit I had originally intended to go with a laptop brick imagining that those would be fairly available. It turns out that power bricks in the 200W range aren’t really that available and are typically somewhat expensive. An external brick doesn’t really play well with the minimalistic and practical design goals either.

Do you remember the two Xbox PSUs crammed into the single case I mentioned? Turns out the perpetrator came to his senses and went for a single AC-DC unit: the Mean-Well UHP-200. Shoutout to Zackmd1 for turning me onto that!

I was actually a bit surprised that it hadn’t struck me to look at DigiKey or Mouser for AC-DC units instead of eBay for laptop power bricks.

I found the UHP-200 series the perfect fit for my build. It features 200W of output power, has over-current, over-voltage and over-heating protection and comes in a 194x55x26mm fanless casing. It comes in a range of output voltages, although the 24V option is the only one within the Dynamo Mini’s rated 16-24V input range.

I ended up with the Mean-Well UHP-200R-24, where the R indicates that it has an additional DC-OK output signal as opposed to the non-R version.

Let's start with the AC input. On one end of the UHP-200 units you find three screw terminals labeled ⏚, AC/N and AC/L where:
  • ⏚ is ground. The ground wire of an AC cord should always be colorcoded green and yellow.
  • AC/N is one of the two AC phases. In an AC cord, it should be colorcoded blue.
  • AC/L is the other of the two AC phases. Colorcoded brown.
I think the usage of AC/N and AC/L depends on your local power grid and my roomate claims that we don't differentiate the two around here and it would be totally fine to swap them around. Anyways, I stuck to the standards in the bulletlist above.

Note that the AC input terminals are protected by a plastic cover in case someone were to drop a screw or something inside the casing. Pretty neat, so remember to put it back on and try to leave as little exposed copper as possible outside the terminals.

Next up is the DC-output end of the unit where you find four screw terminals. Two labeled V+ and two labeled V-:
  • V+ would be the positive output voltage, or 24V in my case.
  • V- is the "reference voltage" aka. ground aka. 0V. The name used for V- depends on the application, and I think it's correct to call it ground in this case.
Now, the Dynamo Mini comes with a black/yellow extension cable for it's DC input while the rest of the wires are all black. In a case with black and yellow wires, you can assume that the black wires are V- (or ground) and the yellow are V+.

Queue pictures:


Once wired up and tested I mounted the AC-DC unit to my prototype wood frame and did some cable management.

Not bad if I might say so myself:

  • CPU: i5-8400
  • MB: Gigabyte B360N WIFI
  • RAM: 2x HyperX 8GB 2666MHz DDR4.

  • POWER: KMPKT Dynamo Mini + Mean Well UHP-200R-24.

  • COOLING: Noctua NH-L9i + cold Norwegian mountain air.

  • CASE: Wood + 4 screws.

Boy did this turn into a long one! Maybe I should consider renaming the thread to a Build Blog hehe. Future topics will probably not get the same treatment as the important power design.

The nest update will probably be a short one about motherboards, so stay tuned for that!
 
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