Prototype Microlith – A 3.8l Thin-mITX case with GPU & ODD support

[McSpain]

The Microlith is my first project to build my own case. It has a back-to-back layout that can hold a thin-mITX motherboard and a single slot PCIe card. In between both, a slot loading ODD is located, that is accessible through the front "grill". It also has room for a 2"x4" open-frame PSU and features a front I/O, 60mm case fan and 2.5"-drive support.



Full Album
Old Pictures

Dimensions:
84x187x243mm (WxDxH) exkl. feet
84x187x249mm (WxDx H) inkl. feet
3.8l volume

Spoiler: List of components

• Mainboard | Gigabyte H110TN-E
• CPU | Intel i3 7300T
• GPU | Gigabyte GT1030LP-2G
• RAM | Corsair Vengeance 16GB SO-DIMM
• PSU | Meanwell EPP-200-12
• ODD | Silverstone SST-SOD03
• SSD | Samsung Evo860 250GB mSATA
• HDD | 1TB 2.5"
• Cooler | Thermaltake Engine17

 

[McSpain]

Update 1:
The internal hardware is mostly complete with the mainboard being fully assembled:

I'll configure the .DXF files for lasercutting the aluminium sheets later today and order the other metal parts.

 

[ElfinHilon10]

Interested this.

 

[GuilleAcoustic]

Interesting, I'd like to know more about your temp with the Engine17 (as well as how it sounds).

I'm using its big brother, the Engine27 on an i7-4785T. I'm also running a Zotac GT1030.

 

[McSpain]

Check out what was in the mail:

A 200W Meanwell adapter and a whole bunch of connectors.
Now I'm just waiting on the delivery of the laser cut panels and some aluminium stock, then I have all the materials. In the meanwhile, I need to do some crimping

 

[McSpain]

It's alive!

 

[McSpain]

The 12V from the powered riser also activate the fans though, and fuck up the internal power management. I need to insulate the 12V contacts on the x4 PCIe connector with kapton.

 

[GuilleAcoustic]

Do you really need to power the riser ?

My GT1030 works perfectly fine without external power on my thin mini-ITX (Asus Q87T + i7-4785T).

 

[Jello]

Any updates? Did you ever get the case manufactured?

 

[McSpain]

Any updates? Did you ever get the case manufactured?

I ran into problems with the metal sheet bending, my setup and tools weren't sufficient to achieve the desired quality. I have yet to adjust the design to be manufacturable more easily, so I can directly order the finished pieces. Also the large vent on the GPU side caused the aluminium to warp during laser cutting, so I need to reduce the size of that. In the meanwhile, I repurposed some of the hardware to go with an STX-based Hackintosh.
PS: And I also wrecked the Meanwell Adapter when searching for the origin of the electric shock it gave me. Why are there 130V on that heatsink?

 

[McSpain]

I've found some time to update the design, to hopefully finish this project soonⁱˢʰ.


I had issues with building my own metal bending brake, so I leave that step to the professionals, and changed the bending radii accordingly. I also had issues with the metal warping around the GPU fan grill from the laser cutting, so I reduced its size a bit.
I also changed the mounting of the HDD to include anti-vibration grommets and to allow for using a full-height GPU (would require a load-switch, not planned for now). It now also has no visible screws on the outside.

 

[SFF EOL]

I've found some time to update the design, to hopefully finish this project soonⁱˢʰ.


I had issues with building my own metal bending brake, so I leave that step to the professionals, and changed the bending radii accordingly. I also had issues with the metal warping around the GPU fan grill from the laser cutting, so I reduced its size a bit.
I also changed the mounting of the HDD to include anti-vibration grommets and to allow for using a full-height GPU (would require a load-switch, not planned for now). It now also has no visible screws on the outside.

In the UK you can get a brake for less than £100 that can cope with up to 3mm aluminium and say 0.6 mild steel. I don't have one but have used/borrowed one. More money gets you faster, easier greater thickness but it is a notable cost increase of hundreds of £. And obviously brackets and so on are a whole other thing- brackets tend to warp so you go thicker- but the brake can't cope with the thickness.


I did have a go at making my own 'bench' brake but the cost saving wasn't massive in £ (as a % of cost, yes it was maybe 60% but that is only talking say £40 and £40 for something that would/should last a very long time isn't convincing)) and it wasn't as good even after 3 versions. The ability to weld would have helped but I could only braze/ bolt for construction. The bolts were nearly £30, and the mild steel for the brake 'jaws' were £16 from memory, plus the other metal and bits and bobs.

 

[CC Ricers]

I did the bending brake as simple as I could and in the end I just used two long planks of wood and clamped the metal sheet between both. Then used a third flat piece of wood to evenly bend it at the bend line. The trick is to apply even pressure which for me works all right as I've only had to bend lengths shorter than 30cm.

If you know where you want two holes to be drilled in the sheet, you can also use those holes to hold the sheet in place with bolts so the sheet won't slide around as you bend.