Empty table ready and parts on the way :-)"build corner" is up!
Log First SSF build - Meshroom S, ASUS Z790-I, Intel i7-13700K, Kingston DDR5 6000MT/s CL32, ARCTIC LF II 280mm and ZOTAC RTX 4070 Ti AMP AIRO
- Thread starter Arelius
- Start date
I need some guidance and feel confused on this so I tough I ask those who actually know much more on the matter then myself.
As you know, I have bought these
PSU, ROG LOKI SFX-L 850W Platinum (and here is images of the included PCI-E power cables)
GPU, ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti AMP AIRO
Now my question is, can I use just the PCI-E 16-pin x 1 from the GPU to my PSU?
If not, what can I use?
I don't get how the provided cable with the GPU 3x8-pin-to-12VHPWR cable can be used since the PSU manual is stating that guaranties and warranty will be my void?!
I appreciate the help on this guys!
As you know, I have bought these
PSU, ROG LOKI SFX-L 850W Platinum (and here is images of the included PCI-E power cables)
GPU, ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti AMP AIRO
Now my question is, can I use just the PCI-E 16-pin x 1 from the GPU to my PSU?
If not, what can I use?
I don't get how the provided cable with the GPU 3x8-pin-to-12VHPWR cable can be used since the PSU manual is stating that guaranties and warranty will be my void?!
I appreciate the help on this guys!
anyone?
Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the newer PCI power cables.
Let's be patient & wait for a few days until more knowledgeable members chime in, as most of us are not in the forum full-time
Ignore the adapters that came with the GPU. You bought one of the few PSUs on the market that already comes with the right cable out of the box. Just plug the cable that came with the PSU directly into the GPU and you will be good to go.
Guys, I got myself in a bad situation with all of my bad choices contributing to that I guess..
The PSU is too big, well it fits buts since it’s a L variant instead of just SF it occupies more space, same with this MB I chose and maybe I shouldn’t go this small for my first SSF build.. after me being almost done with it all, I tried to fire the system up. Do you think it Posted?
No, I’m getting yellow color which in Asus terms means memory related. And since it was so jammed, I had to take it all, almost all of it apart to be able to reach the ram sticks. And after almost a full day of trouble shooting with my limited resources, it seems to be DIMM slot A that is damaged somehow on a brand new MB.
When I clear cemos and go with one stick of ram in the second slot, it all post just fine and I can get into Bios (which I have updated twice now)..
Why did I go with the bigger AIO, PSU, MB… all that combined made sure that if I would end up in this situation that I got myself in, I would have to remake everything...
I have uploaded all my progress, before my meltdown and believe me what you see there is not how things look like anymore nor will it regardless of If and when I find a solution.
Spent 2-3 days straight and just like that it didn’t post, it feels so darn harsh to be honest.
(I have updated the original post with all the images before my melt down)
☹
The PSU is too big, well it fits buts since it’s a L variant instead of just SF it occupies more space, same with this MB I chose and maybe I shouldn’t go this small for my first SSF build.. after me being almost done with it all, I tried to fire the system up. Do you think it Posted?
No, I’m getting yellow color which in Asus terms means memory related. And since it was so jammed, I had to take it all, almost all of it apart to be able to reach the ram sticks. And after almost a full day of trouble shooting with my limited resources, it seems to be DIMM slot A that is damaged somehow on a brand new MB.
When I clear cemos and go with one stick of ram in the second slot, it all post just fine and I can get into Bios (which I have updated twice now)..
Why did I go with the bigger AIO, PSU, MB… all that combined made sure that if I would end up in this situation that I got myself in, I would have to remake everything...
I have uploaded all my progress, before my meltdown and believe me what you see there is not how things look like anymore nor will it regardless of If and when I find a solution.
Spent 2-3 days straight and just like that it didn’t post, it feels so darn harsh to be honest.
(I have updated the original post with all the images before my melt down)
☹
sorry to hear the build is fighting!
can you assemble all the components on the desk, not in the case? it will make it easier to test everything and debug any issues
sounds like you have perhaps identified a faulty motherboard, but have you got any other RAM you can use to test the system? or test that RAM in another system? is there anything got stuck in the RAM slots? are all the RAM and slot contacts clean including finger grease?
hopefully if the MB is faulty you can get it exchanged and try your build again, you will get there
can you assemble all the components on the desk, not in the case? it will make it easier to test everything and debug any issues
sounds like you have perhaps identified a faulty motherboard, but have you got any other RAM you can use to test the system? or test that RAM in another system? is there anything got stuck in the RAM slots? are all the RAM and slot contacts clean including finger grease?
hopefully if the MB is faulty you can get it exchanged and try your build again, you will get there
Thx man, I could but I didn’t hence “bad choses”, I thought I was in the clear since I felt like I know what I'm doing. Sure, I'm rusty but I really felt confident in everything..
Sadly, I don’t have another motherboard compatible with this CPU nor dose it accept these RAM’s so the only thing I could do was to try to reach POST and into Bios with what I had, and so I labeled the ram sticks.
With this MB there is an attachment that lets you Flash and upgrade your Bios without being in Bios and since I couldn’t get it to Post I couldn’t reach bios. So that was the first thing I did.
When that didn’t solve anything, I removed both sticks, blow air in the slots, cleaned the slots and even the entire backside of the MB. The RAM contacts on the backside are nowhere to be seen(!) anyway I did even clean around the RAM slots with proper isopropanol.
Still no post, switched them RAM 1 into DIMM slot B and RAM 2 into DIMM slot A. Still no post, stuck at yellow color/signal on this Asus HIVE module.
So cleared CMOS some more times, took both sticks out again, cleaned those contacts and looked at each pin I could see as close I cloud and carefully inspected each on both the MB and the RAM’s everything did seem fine.
I decided to go with one RAM (1) stick at the time and got nothing in DIMM slot A, and then with on RAM (1) in the DIMM slot B it past the checks and damn it was a fast POST and boot with some errors, but I could get into the bios(!).
So naturally I started making changes and saved different profiles and BIOS images to my USB stick so if I got stuck I could rollback.
I decided to put the nvme2 ssd into the system and attached all the fans and other headers and the daughterboard, front panel ports and so on, everything worked, the bios recognized each single thing. So, I went even further, installed Windows 11 pro, updated everything I could, anything you can think of, and everything seemed fine and worked and the system info was giving me everything as it should, even the RAM type and speed and so on.
So, I decided to give DIMM slot A another chance, turned everything off, and couldn’t get it to post with both slots occupied, but posted ofc without any problem when I inserted RAM (2) into DIMM slot B and into Windows, there it was like I haven’t even rebooted and everything was fine..
Dismantling everything, CPU, AIO, and so on, nothing seems to be damaged, no bent pins on the motherboard where CPU sits as far as I could inspect, and neither was there anything to take note of underneath the CPU.
Long story short, my conclusion was the motherboard is faulty and so I have already done RMA for it, packed it and sent it, now fingers cross they send me a new one and don’t waist weeks after weeks with inspections and possibly repairing stuff..
Since I see this all as a defeat I also decided to return the case, and will be going with the Meshroom S (Gray one). Placed an order on that and returned even the Lian Li case to the reseller.
Sorry to hear that. Yeah usually we build things outside of the case first to test & ensure parts are working (and can be configured/assembled in the way you envisioned)
Anw cheer up, what you experienced is something many of us encountered. Again, be patient. Take it as a rite of passage of being an SFF PC builder.
Guys, does this 24 pin contact look ok to you guys?
(there was something wrong with this, one of the poped out and was bad so RMA on that one too.. My bad luck never ends..)
(there was something wrong with this, one of the poped out and was bad so RMA on that one too.. My bad luck never ends..)
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Hi man, and thx - done!Congrats for your build! I hope you enjoy the Meshroom!
In one of your pics, am I right that you shaved a little bit of the motherboard tray because it hits the front mounted radiator?
Also, I'd suggest to change the title into something more meaningful
Yes you are correct sir! 27mm rad + 27mm fan adds up to a lot more than the actual clearance so had to take around 5mm of the tray. Can't say I have notice any destabilization of anything doing so!
Totally OF maybe, but if I may ask you: in which section or part of the forum can I make a post and start getting/gathering the community's input and knowledge if I'm planning my next build which is going to be a ultra compact NAS?
On terms of "bending tubes" - before I went with my intermediate case, ie. the Asus Prime 201 (which apparently is now THE THING to have in the mffpc world, but I bought it when it was just freshly released in Europe, when there wasnt this hype yet), I did a bit of research myself, with the result that bending it in the OTHER direction (to the "right", ie. direction of the regular radiator position), should be totally okay.
But for my version, the Mesh-mATX - that was before the existence of Meshroom S - I tested out the LF II 240, on the GPU side, and with the tubes going OVER the mainboard tray, it sits flush with the case (there is maybe 1 - 2 mm to spare), at least with the default 3-slot tray position.
On that topic: The LF II 240 mm is absolutely enough for the 13700k (several testers found it its nearly as efficient as the LF II 360!). Also see MY completed build over at PC Partpicker
This weekend (or so are my plans, but could be also next week) I'm planning to add my new GPU (Gigabyte RX 6800) to my intermediate build, and while doing that, replace the PSU, rewire everything more nicely, but most importantly - returning to the radiator topic: Replace the P12 A-RGB fans with the P12 Max. Which supposedly lets the LF II 240 perform exactly like the 360 (acc. to STS, and not just "somewhat" matching)
cu, w0lf.
But for my version, the Mesh-mATX - that was before the existence of Meshroom S - I tested out the LF II 240, on the GPU side, and with the tubes going OVER the mainboard tray, it sits flush with the case (there is maybe 1 - 2 mm to spare), at least with the default 3-slot tray position.
On that topic: The LF II 240 mm is absolutely enough for the 13700k (several testers found it its nearly as efficient as the LF II 360!). Also see MY completed build over at PC Partpicker
This weekend (or so are my plans, but could be also next week) I'm planning to add my new GPU (Gigabyte RX 6800) to my intermediate build, and while doing that, replace the PSU, rewire everything more nicely, but most importantly - returning to the radiator topic: Replace the P12 A-RGB fans with the P12 Max. Which supposedly lets the LF II 240 perform exactly like the 360 (acc. to STS, and not just "somewhat" matching)
cu, w0lf.
Hi man, and thx - done!
Yes you are correct sir! 27mm rad + 27mm fan adds up to a lot more than the actual clearance so had to take around 5mm of the tray. Can't say I have notice any destabilization of anything doing so!
I guess your GPU is a bit too wide so you couldnt go for the GPU + Rad option? Ie. putting the radiator to the GPU side?
BTW: An option for your "tubes sticking out" side panel issue would be to get 3d printed case extenders. There is a lot to be found on Thingiverse, but also quite a few people sell them on etsy in various colors and iterations
cu, w0lf.
I see you have updated your title. If I may suggest, do put the name of the case for example, so people know what to expect when they see your thread title. Not to mention it helps with forum search & SEO as well
Of course. We're open to various types of SFF PC related builds, including NAS. You can post your thread in this build section.
Of course. We're open to various types of SFF PC related builds, including NAS. You can post your thread in this build section.
On that note: One can bend those LF II tubes quite a lot. Here's a "maxed out SAMA" build with HEAVY bending (also seen a few NR200s with similar bending) and no issues whatsoever
r/sffpc thread:
cu, w0lf.
r/sffpc thread:
cu, w0lf.
Hi man,On terms of "bending tubes" - before I went with my intermediate case, ie. the Asus Prime 201 (which apparently is now THE THING to have in the mffpc world, but I bought it when it was just freshly released in Europe, when there wasnt this hype yet), I did a bit of research myself, with the result that bending it in the OTHER direction (to the "right", ie. direction of the regular radiator position), should be totally okay.
But for my version, the Mesh-mATX - that was before the existence of Meshroom S - I tested out the LF II 240, on the GPU side, and with the tubes going OVER the mainboard tray, it sits flush with the case (there is maybe 1 - 2 mm to spare), at least with the default 3-slot tray position.
On that topic: The LF II 240 mm is absolutely enough for the 13700k (several testers found it its nearly as efficient as the LF II 360!). Also see MY completed build over at PC Partpicker
This weekend (or so are my plans, but could be also next week) I'm planning to add my new GPU (Gigabyte RX 6800) to my intermediate build, and while doing that, replace the PSU, rewire everything more nicely, but most importantly - returning to the radiator topic: Replace the P12 A-RGB fans with the P12 Max. Which supposedly lets the LF II 240 perform exactly like the 360 (acc. to STS, and not just "somewhat" matching)
cu, w0lf.
You don't happen to have any pictures of that build with the bends to the side?
I thought going over and then to the side but the problem is that the tubes would be to short for mounting the radiator with the tubs of it in the lower position or also, having the tubes of the radiator on the top position I hear is a bad way to doing AIO radiator mounting and may cause air building up there and/or cause gurgling sounds and such, isn't this true? also the tubes connectors on the radiator side doesn't have any bend either so they will catch on the rams and or on to the GPU to so I cant see how I can mount in any other orientation. but sure I would love to not having open case.
Reason why I went with the 280mm one is that I I'll get the new Intel CPU when it comes out (24, Q3 is rumored) and then I'm planing to upgrade to Phantecks PH-F120T30 120MM (ofc I mean 140 variant that doesn't exist yet and maybe never will) or a pair of upcoming Noctua (the ones they have had in development for the past decade or so) that hopefully will be available in more then just 120mm.
Thank you for sharing this video, I'll dig into this, the thing is I'm rather surprised with the Arctic fans with my radiator, they are in my ears absolutely marvels and silent and prefer very well under the heaviest of loads.
Btw, according to the guys I have had conversations with over at Arctic, they are going to release the new products soon and in that line up we can expect swing tube connectors and less stiff tubes and more that these guys just couldn't collaborate more on but it's coming!
Do you have a post where one can follow your progress on the rebuild?
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