Update:
I'm always am trying to improve and evolve, so I wish to share of my findings. I call this case the FC8 Ultra now!! HAHAH!!! This might be of interest for @Staxtis if you're still interested.
I have added a double streacom gpu mount
An extra set of 180mm 4 heatpipes, and a 2mm heatpad...
Update:
I'm always am trying to improve and evolve, so I wish to share of my findings.
I have added a double streacom gpu mount
An extra set of 180mm 4 heatpipes, and a 2mm heatpad for the top panel
and a 5mm heatpad for the side of the top panel
I am shocked the heat dissipation has...
I feel the reason the streacom heatsink is on the outside is because it will get very hot inside that case and with little to no air circulation. I think you need the longest fins possible, yet durable and won't break easily. Get something that is low profile, can reach up the cpu area, and...
That's great if you have access to material and make your own. I would got for copper if you can because I heard copper is the best of the best. If you check out the fins on the passive GT 1030 models, you can see the card takes up two slots because the fins are extra long. I think the fins...
Gotcha. I see what you want to do. You want to see the other side of the gpu. The heatsink has to be biggest one you can find in diameter and longest fins. You can try to add this on the back of the case where the vent holes are to expel the heat. You can mount it with some screws and cable...
It's just as msystems suggests, it is hard to know if it will make a difference using the riser for the lid. I can let you know in two weeks when my heatpipes comes from China and will see if it brings my 47 degrees temperature down. That HT4 riser 180deg as is, looks to be about 32mm on the...
My lid doesn't get as close as hot as the side fins. I went ahead and bought 4 200mm heatpipes from china to test these out. If it works out, great....if it doesn't then I wont have to dish out $50 and damaging the HT4 set in the process.
I also though of adding some huge heatsinks on the top...
This is mystem's thread, check it out https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/msystems-m1-streacom-fc5-6-6l.2240/.
Cutting the fin part is to fit the piece in the fc8 case, you have to do it if your going to use the hdplex gpu kit. Yes, you have to send the heat through the heatpipes to the...
Ooooo, if it is 30mm, you can chop that fin part off. I measured about 22mm from gpu die to the edge of the fc8 case clearance. I'm unsure how watercoolers work and with fans, it'll be pain in ass to install them with little space in the case. You can use a micro 40mm fan.
Ultimately the...
40mm would be way too big, the max is 21mm before the case lid wont be able to close. Unless you chop off the heatsink on the aluminum piece. The EVO cpu block is 7mm total, the Alpha cpu block is 10mm total. I am using the EVO one. About mentioning the riser kit, you actually gave me an concept...
Yes, you definitely need the gpu kit, the hdplex one would be the easiest. It's almost possible....the only problem is you need the wall heatblocks to screw them in. Also they need to have grooves in them and they need to be round to accommodate the pipes. This site has the flat blocks for $3 a...
Staxtis: Your right, the SH2 are only for the alphas because they have two rows of mounting holes and the EVO models have only 1 set and they are on the upper level. The only pain in ass problem is getting all the extra parts. The manager at Streacom, Ahmet, is the one who can provide the spare...
Thanks for the insight! I'll check your thread to see how you did yours. I loved the idea how you got the heatpipes from China like I did. Came in the exact yellow tube packaging. This is the TIM I did for both cpu and gpu. I didn't really want to modify the case.
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