Thanks for sharing. As for me, I only use my PC for gaming. I set “Tj max” to 85 C in bios. The CPU runs at ~4.6 Hz in games, the temperature never rises above 85C.
I replaced 5800x3D with 7600X and plan to upgrade to 7800X3D.
X3D is a big deal if you prefer to play at 1080p at high refresh rates (144-360Hz). My case: Valorant and Zowie XL2566K (360Hz).
I lowered the voltage on my 5800X3D with a PBO2 tuner (-30mV curve) and got a maximum of 75C in games.
Hi.
Yes, I received the L9a a few weeks ago and tested it. The temperature was the same as the Z39 and Jonsbo HP-400S. I think the main limitation is the fan and its speed (50%). It can blow out a certain amount of hot air. That's why all three coolers have the same result. As for the...
I have another cooler in my hands - Jonsbo HP-400S
The stock fan has been replaced with an ID-Cooling NO-9215 RGB and tested in Cinebench R23.
The result is the same as Metalfish Z39. 83C after 15 minutes at 50% fan speed. Updated the table in the first post.
One more update.
Today I received interesting fan - Scythe Slip Stream Slim 120mm (SY1212SL12M). It‘s super slim, thickness is only 12mm.
The next step is to remove the heatsink from the RAM with a hair dryer.
And yes, it fits! No issues, but super tight - absolutely zero space between RAM...
GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Plus almost as fast as RTX 3070
It seems that 3060 Ti Plus (reference PCB) + Palit StormX cooler will be the best option in terms of performance.
Some updates
Today I received a new fan - ID-Cooling NO-9215 RGB. The only one slim 92mm fan with RGB 🙂
Noise level (A9-15@50% vs NO-9215@50%) is identical and very low
No. You need to take the following steps:
1. Unscrew all the bolts and remove the top cover from PSU.
2. Cut the original fan's cable (with proprietary 2pin).
3. Fix 2pin to A4x20 using OmniJoin™ adaptor set.
My PSU is not loud but not absolutely silent, so I replaced the fan with a Noctua A4x20 FLX. I didn't get any test report, my sample works without any issues.
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